Leather Manufacturing II Full Tanning Industrial Process II Four Tannery Industry in One Video

00:43:33
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Dr9OeUNG5vc

Ringkasan

TLDRLeather production is a craft with ancient roots, utilizing hides and skins from animals as a durable, natural material for various uses. The process begins by preserving raw hides with salt to prevent bacterial growth. Subsequent steps include soaking them in lime to remove hair, fleshing to remove excess flesh, trimming, and splitting the hides into layers - top grain and split. Tanning converts raw fibers into durable leather using chemicals to improve stamina against wear and environmental factors. The hides are then dyed and processed through drying techniques like vacuum drying or air suspension. Final steps enhance the leather's beauty through finishing techniques such as spray applications, embossing, and measuring for quality. Companies like Leather Tex Group in Pakistan excel in these processes, ensuring high-quality leather for shoes and fashion items, with a strong focus on sustainability and employee welfare.

Takeaways

  • 👞 Leather craftsmanship dates back to ancient civilization.
  • 🧂 Salt is crucial for preserving raw hides.
  • 🧑‍🔬 Tanning is a transformative chemical process.
  • 🎨 Dying adds unique colors to leather.
  • 🌿 Vegetable tanning uses natural extracts.
  • 🚿 Modern drying techniques like vacuum drying enhance efficiency.
  • 📏 Quality control ensures uniform thickness and texture.
  • 🇵🇰 Leather Tex is notable in the leather industry in Pakistan.
  • 🌍 Sustainability and ethical manufacturing at Leather Tex.
  • 🔧 Advanced machines and skilled technicians enhance production.

Garis waktu

  • 00:00:00 - 00:05:00

    Leather is a versatile and durable material with a long history. The process starts with preserving hides using salt and involves various treatments like liming and fleshing to prepare them for tanning. The preparation includes trimming and splitting to enhance usability, particularly separating the top grain and split layers.

  • 00:05:00 - 00:10:00

    The tanning process uses agents to convert raw hides into durable leather, enhancing resistance to various elements. Processes like ringing remove moisture, and leather is categorized by use. Shaving evens thickness, while fat liquoring improves softness and flexibility. Drying techniques include vacuum and suspension methods.

  • 00:10:00 - 00:15:00

    After drying, mechanical staking softens the leather, and optional treatments fill scratches. Buffing prepares the leather for finishing, which includes creative enhancements using spray methods. Embossing adds artificial grain patterns, and the leather is measured for quality before distribution.

  • 00:15:00 - 00:20:00

    Leather Text Tanneries is a leader in leather production, focusing on high-quality items for the fashion industry. They maintain a healthy work environment to ensure quality and have been recognized for their export achievements. The company offers a wide range of leather products, timely delivering to meet customer demands.

  • 00:20:00 - 00:25:00

    With robust processes in place, Leather Text maintains a large stock of raw materials. The tanning and dyeing processes are closely monitored for quality, creating diverse textures and colors. Their R&D department continuously innovates, allowing them to produce fashionable and unique leather items.

  • 00:25:00 - 00:30:00

    At Leather Text, precise selection ensures only high-quality materials proceed to finishing, which uses advanced machinery and techniques. They produce various finishes for global fashion brands, keeping up with the latest trends and ensuring their products meet high standards for durability and aesthetics.

  • 00:30:00 - 00:35:00

    Leather Text is dedicated to customer satisfaction, prioritizing quality from production to delivery. They engage in continual research, ensuring their products adhere to international standards. Their in-house testing and responsible use of chemicals reflect their commitment to safety and compliance.

  • 00:35:00 - 00:43:33

    Hermann Oak Leather demonstrates a traditional approach, using vegetable tanning with tree bark tannins valued for specific industries. Despite a lengthy process, their method ensures quality. Their controlled process, from soaking to splitting and finishing, maintains leather's natural attributes and meets diverse customer needs.

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Video Tanya Jawab

  • How is leather preserved initially?

    Leather is preserved using salt, which prevents bacterial growth.

  • What is the purpose of tanning in leather production?

    Tanning converts raw fibers into durable leather, making it resistant to wear and environmental factors.

  • What are the drying techniques mentioned for leather?

    Drying techniques include vacuum drying and air suspension.

  • What supports Leather Tex's success in the industry?

    Leather Tex focuses on sustainability, advanced machines, skilled technicians, and quality control.

  • What are the benefits of vegetable tanning?

    Vegetable tanning uses natural extracts, making leather moldable and skin-friendly.

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Teks
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Gulir Otomatis:
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    leather is one of the earliest crafts
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    accompany humans since the origin of the
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    species it is a durable versatile and
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    natural material something of high value
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    accomplishing a whole range of uses
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    we appreciate the look feel an even
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    unique smell of leather but a question
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    may arise
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    how is modern leather made we aim to add
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    light to this by means of this concise
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    video as we highlight the various key
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    processes in making leather the heights
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    from large animals and skins from small
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    animals come from many parts of the
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    world and are a byproduct of any
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    industry
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    heids arrived at the tannery after being
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    treated with salt to preserve them from
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    bacterial action
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    the first process performed is to shake
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    out the salt avoiding pollution of the
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    water system
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    [Music]
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    leathers are then soaked in lime in a
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    process called blaming this chemically
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    dissolves the hair removes unwanted
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    proteins and opens up the fiber
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    structure this process swells the
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    leather considerably remembering that
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    this material comes from an animal
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    it still has fleshy parts to it
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    therefore the next process is fleshing
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    the fleshing machine has many cutting
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    blades and a revolving cylinder that
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    cuts away unwanted fleshy matter and
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    regularizes leather thickness
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    [Music]
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    the leathers pass on to the next stage
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    called trimming where workers cut away
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    useless or unwanted material from the
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    edges of raw hides to give them a better
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    shape or trim
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    [Music]
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    a very important operation then takes
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    place called splitting as the leather is
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    still of a thick dimension this is the
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    operation of cutting a hide or skin
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    horizontally into two layers
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    [Music]
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    the upper layer the more external part
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    of the animal is called top grain
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    and the lower layer is called split
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    now the tanning process takes place in
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    this case the hides are placed inside a
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    wooden rotating drum specially designed
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    for tanning tanning agents convert the
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    raw fibers of the hide into a durable
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    product preserving it improving its
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    abrasion resistance and heat and flex
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    resistance able to endure repeated
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    cycles of wetting and drying
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    [Music]
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    next two large rolls squeeze out the
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    excess moisture as the hides are fed
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    through a machine this is termed ringing
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    [Music]
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    the leathers are called wet blowed and
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    may now be selected or graded as desired
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    according to the destination of use
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    [Music]
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    once there have been selected they need
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    to be reduced and made uniform in
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    thickness this is done by a shaving
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    method normally a machine with a rapidly
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    revolving bladed cylinder
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    the livers are then returned and died
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    through literally a further tanning
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    treatment to modify leathers properties
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    the leathers that exit here are now
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    uniformly died the natural beauty of
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    leather is made even more striking by
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    the wide variety of shades which the
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    modern Tanner is capable of producing
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    the last of the wet operations is the
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    fat liquor to grant leather permanent
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    softness elasticity and flexing
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    resistance
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    now we come to the drawing operations
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    the first step is setting out our
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    working over the grain surface to remove
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    excess water and eliminate wrinkles
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    [Music]
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    leather drawing can be continued by
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    various methods one of these is vacuum
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    drawing where leathers are put on a
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    large hot flat plate and another plate
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    presses down and sucks the water out of
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    the leather by creating a vacuum
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    [Music]
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    this is a very effective method
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    or there is toggling leathers are fixed
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    on frames with toggles or clamps
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    [Music]
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    the levers then go through a dryer
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    [Music]
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    this stretching can be done manually
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    here is a machine that does it
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    automatically
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    [Music]
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    another method is suspension drawing the
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    hides are suspended from the ground on a
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    wire or chain so that air has free
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    access to both sides and move high up
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    around the ternary complex in this way
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    the letters dry at room temperature
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    [Music]
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    leather is staked to make it open and
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    softer pins pound the leather from both
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    above and below hundreds of times as it
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    passes through the machine stretching
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    and flexing the leather in every
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    direction this softens a leather
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    remarkably
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    [Music]
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    some skins have natural healed scratches
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    or parasitic damage in the grain of the
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    leather a very special flexible paste
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    stucco can fill in such gaps
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    [Music]
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    a light buffing or sanding leaves a
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    clean smooth surface ready for the
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    subsequent finishing operation
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    [Music]
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    the finishing Department is the area
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    where an alert and creative mind that's
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    the final touches to enhance the natural
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    beauty of leather one method of applying
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    the finish is the rotary spray several
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    spray guns are mounted on a unit which
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    continuously revolves over the leather
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    unique patterns and two-tone effects can
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    be obtained
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    [Music]
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    once the leather is dry an artificial
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    grain pattern is often created by
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    embossing the leather using edged or
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    engraved rolls
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    [Music]
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    grain pattern and softness can be
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    further enhanced by joy milling the
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    leather
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    before being delivered to the customer
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    the leather is measured by a very
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    precise machine
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    [Music]
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    by caste is a completely different
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    system of finishing or enhancing leather
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    usually with split or heavily buff
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    leather maintaining the same thickness
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    and softness the technique consists of
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    creating the finishing film on a
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    continuous support of release paper
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    [Music]
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    and that adhesive is applied to the film
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    then the film is pressed on the leather
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    [Music]
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    the finished leather is then removed
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    from the release paper displaying a
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    perfectly uniform surface
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    [Music]
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    in viewing these principle processes you
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    can appreciate the passion dedication
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    technology and creativity that goes into
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    working and finishing learner
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    [Music]
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    you
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    leather texts tanneries is a part of
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    leather text group and is one of the
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    leading manufacturers and exporters of
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    finished leather but the company's prime
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    objective is to produce high quality
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    leathers for shoes handbags another
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    smaller because we are one of the major
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    tanneries in Pakistan with complete
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    production setup of leather making
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    starting red for road to finishing
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    leather text has been awarded best
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    export trophy 1996 to 1997 1997 to 1998
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    1999 to 2000 and again for the year 2007
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    to 2008 a healthy work environment at
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    leather techs keeps its workers healthy
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    and provides opportunities to meet with
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    their work and personal goals we firmly
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    believe that only a healthy environment
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    can produce quality products with huge
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    stocks of graded raw skins we guarantee
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    our customers right quality good volume
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    consistent prices and
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    no matter which size selection and
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    substance is required whether text has
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    got a complete range for all skins and
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    stock available which can support her
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    production for at least six months these
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    stocks are ready in wet blue and pick
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    will form for immediate production as
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    for the ordered specifications at wet
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    blue and purple selection stage each and
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    every skin goes through multiple
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    selection processes to be segregated and
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    stacked into different categories for
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    prompt issuance for production while
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    issuing the skins for further processing
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    each and every skin is again selected
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    manually to ensure all the skins have
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    the right substance for style and
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    quality according to the specifications
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    ordered by the customers these skins are
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    again measured through an electronic
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    measuring machine to further ensure that
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    not a single piece which doesn't comply
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    the specifications laid by the customer
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    is issued
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    our dying section which plays the role
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    of the backbone in our tannery operates
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    under the vigilant supervision of the
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    qualified technicians 24 hours a day and
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    seven days a week we produce a very wide
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    range of fashion colors including very
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    light colors as we are mainly working
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    for ladies shoes and bag industry
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    uniform and thorough dyeing with unique
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    handmade textures and even natural
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    milling is a signature and speciality of
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    leather Tex
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    our customers strongly believe in our
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    ability to produce these unique handmade
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    textures and therefore eagerly await our
  • 00:16:18
    new collection every season
  • 00:16:22
    our sample lab is fully equipped with
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    experimental drums and world-class
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    machinery where our research and
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    development department continuously
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    keeps on researching and adding optimal
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    value to the raw skins by developing new
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    articles with diversify advantages and
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    trendy colors
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    [Music]
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    our leather is renowned for its
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    versatility of tannic green patterns and
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    finishes which fully caters to the needs
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    of our customers leather Tex is
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    currently doing a variety of challenges
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    like Chrome panitch semi vegetable
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    tarnish and chrome free tonnage and
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    diversified grain patterns like milled
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    grain flat grain semi milled natural
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    shrunken and handmade textures making
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    leather is a passion for leather Tex
  • 00:17:10
    extreme care professional treatment
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    accurate and precise mechanical
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    processes carried out under continuous
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    supervision of qualified technicians and
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    state-of-the-art machines from the most
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    famous brands ensuring quality
  • 00:17:26
    uniformity consistency and durability of
  • 00:17:30
    our leather article
  • 00:17:32
    our planned and systematic machine
  • 00:17:35
    processes helps us ensure the
  • 00:17:37
    suitability of our products to meet our
  • 00:17:39
    customers market needs at leather Tech's
  • 00:17:43
    will strongly believe that only a
  • 00:17:44
    healthy worker can produce a quality
  • 00:17:46
    product which can reach the high
  • 00:17:49
    expectation level of our customers
  • 00:17:51
    therefore at leather Tech's we make sure
  • 00:17:54
    that all our workers follow the health
  • 00:17:56
    and safety regulations set by the
  • 00:17:58
    company we have designed planned and
  • 00:18:02
    supervised our factory to be a safe and
  • 00:18:05
    healthy workplace for our workers
  • 00:18:07
    so the buffing process is carried out in
  • 00:18:09
    the backside area of in tannery and is
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    equipped with a fully automatic feeder
  • 00:18:14
    sting and dust collection system to keep
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    the place dust free and lovely right
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    selection correct substance accurate
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    size of skins and proper tonnage is
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    crucial to make the right article a
  • 00:18:28
    therapist two-piece inspection is
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    carried out by experienced and skillful
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    staff before issuing the crust for
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    finishing during crust selection it is
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    in short that not a single piece of sub
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    graded quality
  • 00:18:42
    and substance is Center for finishing
  • 00:18:48
    finishing is the foremost and crucial
  • 00:18:50
    stage in leather making leather techs
  • 00:18:53
    finishing section is really equipped
  • 00:18:55
    with state-of-the-art most sophisticated
  • 00:18:57
    finishing machines made by famous
  • 00:18:59
    Italian brands we produce many types of
  • 00:19:03
    finishing including aniline semi an
  • 00:19:05
    alliance natural waxy patent glazed
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    brush-off coiled pull up and hand
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    finished with lots of colors metallics
  • 00:19:15
    as well as non metallics this unique
  • 00:19:20
    blend of qualified skilful technicians
  • 00:19:22
    and state-of-the-art finishing machines
  • 00:19:24
    is developing and producing a wide range
  • 00:19:26
    of splendid and excellent articles every
  • 00:19:29
    year that are awaited by many of the
  • 00:19:31
    famous brands in the world of fashion
  • 00:19:33
    for completing their product range
  • 00:19:38
    induction of new machines and techniques
  • 00:19:41
    is given its due importance and Leavitt
  • 00:19:43
    X and this plays a very important role
  • 00:19:46
    in our research and development who
  • 00:19:48
    subsequently keeps us and our customers
  • 00:19:50
    at the forefront in the fashion InDesign
  • 00:19:54
    leather Tex always keeps its customers
  • 00:19:56
    well informed and updated on the
  • 00:19:59
    upcoming trends in color forecast we
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    develop our catalog and designer guides
  • 00:20:04
    twice a year which makes the job of our
  • 00:20:06
    customers much simple in Enzo
  • 00:20:10
    nether text is always maintained
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    state-of-the-art laboratories and sample
  • 00:20:15
    department as a majority of our
  • 00:20:17
    production is fashion oriented for which
  • 00:20:20
    research and development skilled
  • 00:20:22
    technicians and good chemicals are the
  • 00:20:24
    key ingredients nether text has got a
  • 00:20:27
    very skillful and highly efficient
  • 00:20:29
    sampling Department which is capable of
  • 00:20:32
    producing samples according to the
  • 00:20:34
    market trends and the customers require
  • 00:20:36
    us in the shortest possible time
  • 00:20:40
    customer satisfaction and comfort is the
  • 00:20:43
    focal point with a whole production
  • 00:20:45
    strategy and quality policy moves when
  • 00:20:48
    is evident in the whole production
  • 00:20:50
    process seen before the quality system
  • 00:20:53
    is was read and being monitored at all
  • 00:20:56
    stages at the final inspection each and
  • 00:20:59
    every single piece of the lot is again
  • 00:21:01
    carefully checked and compared with the
  • 00:21:03
    standards with due care and personalized
  • 00:21:06
    effort it is ensured that not a single
  • 00:21:09
    piece of leather which is not up to the
  • 00:21:11
    customer's required quality size
  • 00:21:13
    substance and finishing to make her out
  • 00:21:18
    the leathers that have been passed by
  • 00:21:20
    the final quality inspectors for
  • 00:21:22
    shipping out i measured by the square
  • 00:21:24
    feet or square meters as required by the
  • 00:21:27
    customers and then packed in cartons of
  • 00:21:30
    right size and wrapped in fabric to make
  • 00:21:32
    sure that goods arrived to the customer
  • 00:21:34
    in good condition from time consistent
  • 00:21:37
    and timely deliveries are the unique
  • 00:21:39
    selling points of lunatics and repeat
  • 00:21:42
    orders from our valuable customers we
  • 00:21:44
    are proof of their control centers
  • 00:21:47
    containers are completely checked before
  • 00:21:50
    stuffing so that the goods reach at the
  • 00:21:52
    destination safely we are producing a
  • 00:21:57
    wide range of articles on domestic goat
  • 00:21:59
    mainly for ladies shoe and bag industry
  • 00:22:02
    due to the efforts of our active and
  • 00:22:05
    energetic research department the
  • 00:22:07
    leather Tech's presents a wide range of
  • 00:22:09
    new collection twice a year which is
  • 00:22:11
    evaluated by many of the prestigious
  • 00:22:13
    brands
  • 00:22:16
    never text is an active participant in
  • 00:22:18
    all of the major exhibitions around the
  • 00:22:20
    globe where these new collections are
  • 00:22:23
    presented to its customers to fulfill
  • 00:22:27
    the commitment of producing quality
  • 00:22:29
    leather leather textile areas and as its
  • 00:22:31
    own in-house testing facility which
  • 00:22:34
    caters to most of the required tests
  • 00:22:36
    using top-of-the-line testing equipment
  • 00:22:38
    from cetera the tests can be carried out
  • 00:22:40
    according to many of the international
  • 00:22:42
    standards as per customers demand this
  • 00:22:45
    in-house testing clubs are save a lot of
  • 00:22:48
    time and in maintaining a strict quality
  • 00:22:50
    measures we always keep our customers
  • 00:22:54
    updated by providing certificates of
  • 00:22:57
    compliance as soon as any new regulation
  • 00:23:00
    comes into force leather Tex relies on
  • 00:23:05
    the most well known European suppliers
  • 00:23:07
    for its complete requirements of
  • 00:23:09
    chemicals this ensures on-time delivery
  • 00:23:12
    with a required quality we do not use
  • 00:23:15
    substandard non branded chemicals
  • 00:23:18
    therefore our products fully comply all
  • 00:23:21
    European standards for non hazardous
  • 00:23:23
    chemicals in the third world most of the
  • 00:23:30
    countries at the moment are suffering
  • 00:23:31
    from power shortage
  • 00:23:33
    the factories are closed for hours
  • 00:23:36
    fortunately leather Tex has its own
  • 00:23:38
    power backup system this system ensures
  • 00:23:41
    the uninterrupted power supply to
  • 00:23:43
    machines to ensure on-time deliveries
  • 00:23:49
    senior management at their level have
  • 00:23:51
    always demonstrated their extraordinary
  • 00:23:53
    management planning controlling
  • 00:23:56
    organizing and marketing capabilities to
  • 00:23:59
    accelerate the company's development
  • 00:24:01
    over the period of 25 years discipline
  • 00:24:06
    is cultivated in the workers to create a
  • 00:24:09
    feeling of self-worth and to help them
  • 00:24:11
    to become independent and responsible
  • 00:24:14
    citizens the social responsibility is a
  • 00:24:22
    fundamental element in the business
  • 00:24:25
    ethics leather text group fully
  • 00:24:28
    understands its responsibility therefore
  • 00:24:31
    a score of primary education was
  • 00:24:33
    launched initially in 1997 in the
  • 00:24:36
    families owned house in the village area
  • 00:24:39
    of dialogue the school was run using
  • 00:24:42
    exclusively the family's own financial
  • 00:24:45
    resources and some help from a few
  • 00:24:47
    friends in the year 2006 the school was
  • 00:24:51
    upgraded to middle level and then
  • 00:24:54
    to a secondary school in the year 2008
  • 00:24:56
    the school faculty has focused on
  • 00:24:59
    effective learning through the children
  • 00:25:01
    and preparing strong-headed
  • 00:25:03
    socially responding and proactive
  • 00:25:06
    individuals the outcome is encouraging
  • 00:25:10
    most of the teachers now serving in the
  • 00:25:13
    school were previously students of the
  • 00:25:15
    score their motivation and dedication in
  • 00:25:19
    their jobs is proving extremely
  • 00:25:21
    effective the score has cast an
  • 00:25:24
    extraordinary impact on the mindset of
  • 00:25:26
    the people of the village an adjacent
  • 00:25:29
    area the turn of mind and the liking of
  • 00:25:33
    the education being seen nowadays and
  • 00:25:35
    the people of the village are remarkable
  • 00:25:37
    [Music]
  • 00:25:51
    you
  • 00:26:11
    welcome to Hermann oak leather we have
  • 00:26:14
    been tanning leather for 125 years
  • 00:26:16
    through four generations this video is
  • 00:26:19
    designed to help explain how leather is
  • 00:26:21
    made our leather is still made the
  • 00:26:23
    old-fashioned way with tannins that come
  • 00:26:26
    from tree bark this is called vegetable
  • 00:26:29
    tanning which has certain properties
  • 00:26:31
    still valued by many people around the
  • 00:26:33
    world for its beauty and workability we
  • 00:26:36
    hope you will find this interesting and
  • 00:26:38
    everyone in our company welcomes you to
  • 00:26:40
    join us on our tour the tanning process
  • 00:26:42
    you will see here is one of the oldest
  • 00:26:44
    antigens called vegetable tanning as it
  • 00:26:47
    uses the tannins from organic matter
  • 00:26:49
    like tree bark leaves and nuts
  • 00:26:51
    while this tannins used to be the
  • 00:26:54
    predominant Tanager round the world it
  • 00:26:56
    is now a specialty tannin shoes clothing
  • 00:26:59
    and upholstery have switched over the
  • 00:27:01
    past hundred years to Chrome tanning
  • 00:27:03
    which uses the metal chromium takes a
  • 00:27:06
    much shorter time and is less costly to
  • 00:27:08
    make the vegetable Pantages you will see
  • 00:27:11
    here however still retain their ability
  • 00:27:13
    to mold carve provide firmness and are
  • 00:27:16
    compatible with skin which are
  • 00:27:18
    fundamental to their use in the markets
  • 00:27:20
    for the horse pet orthopedic and craft
  • 00:27:23
    industries a century ago this vegetable
  • 00:27:27
    tanned is used to take up to a year for
  • 00:27:29
    each hide nowadays it still takes
  • 00:27:31
    between one and three months rawhides if
  • 00:27:35
    left wet will rot if hides are dried
  • 00:27:38
    they will not rot yet are no longer
  • 00:27:41
    flexible and have limited use tanning is
  • 00:27:44
    simply a method of combining another
  • 00:27:46
    substance called tannin with the hide
  • 00:27:49
    fiber to allow the resultant leather to
  • 00:27:51
    be dried yet remain flexible the
  • 00:27:53
    chemical process of getting there
  • 00:27:55
    however is very involved hides are
  • 00:27:57
    removed from the cattle at the packing
  • 00:27:59
    plant washed flesh to remove fat trimmed
  • 00:28:03
    then the water removed in a
  • 00:28:05
    doughnut-shaped raceway using a
  • 00:28:07
    saturated salt brine solution they are
  • 00:28:10
    then sorted for gender weight and brands
  • 00:28:14
    our industry uses the heavier weighted
  • 00:28:16
    portion of the native or non-branded
  • 00:28:18
    male steer sides or about one percent of
  • 00:28:21
    the available cattle hides of the u.s.
  • 00:28:23
    the u.s. produces about 30 million hides
  • 00:28:26
    a year from a cattle population of
  • 00:28:28
    around 100 million you may notice on
  • 00:28:31
    this cured hide some of the natural
  • 00:28:33
    wrinkles and draw which comes from the
  • 00:28:35
    growth and the breed of the animal
  • 00:28:37
    tanners attempt to minimize the
  • 00:28:39
    appearance of these yet they can never
  • 00:28:41
    be fully corrected the first operation
  • 00:28:44
    the Tanner performs is to soak the hide
  • 00:28:45
    back to its original water content by
  • 00:28:48
    removing the salt the hair is then
  • 00:28:50
    removed with lime and sulphide forming a
  • 00:28:53
    lye type solution to break down the hair
  • 00:28:56
    the lime has the additional benefit of
  • 00:28:58
    plumping the fibers by raising the pH
  • 00:29:00
    opening the fibers so they accept the
  • 00:29:02
    later tannins this is the first major
  • 00:29:04
    chemical process which needs stringent
  • 00:29:06
    quality controls for pH temperature and
  • 00:29:10
    alkalinity the limed hides are fleshed
  • 00:29:14
    to remove excess fatty tissue
  • 00:29:29
    certain leathers are now split on a band
  • 00:29:31
    knife splitter to make them level this
  • 00:29:34
    splitting process may be repeated later
  • 00:29:36
    in the tanning process as well as in the
  • 00:29:38
    finished dry State some tanners also use
  • 00:29:41
    shaving machines to make the leather
  • 00:29:43
    level the line is now removed from the
  • 00:29:46
    hides gradually lowering the pH back to
  • 00:29:48
    neutral the hides are then baited or
  • 00:29:50
    cleaned using an enzyme which was first
  • 00:29:53
    developed for the tanning industry and
  • 00:29:55
    later used in clothing detergent when
  • 00:29:57
    the hides come out of these paddles they
  • 00:29:59
    can be drive to make rawhide dog bones
  • 00:30:01
    or rawhide stamping pallets this is the
  • 00:30:04
    second major chemical process which is
  • 00:30:06
    closely controlled for pH and
  • 00:30:08
    temperature the chemistry in tanning is
  • 00:30:10
    like building a house where the
  • 00:30:12
    foundation is most important and every
  • 00:30:14
    level is dependent on the previous one
  • 00:30:16
    to ensure the highest quality the hides
  • 00:30:19
    are now placed into the tanning solution
  • 00:30:21
    which is similar to coffee here the
  • 00:30:23
    tannin molecules gradually penetrate the
  • 00:30:25
    hide fibers it is here that the carving
  • 00:30:28
    and molding characteristics of the
  • 00:30:29
    leather are set this is the major
  • 00:30:32
    chemical process in tanning taking up to
  • 00:30:34
    six weeks for vegetable tanning the
  • 00:30:37
    process must be tightly controlled on a
  • 00:30:39
    daily basis for acidity pH tannin
  • 00:30:42
    strength and purity Chrome tanning does
  • 00:30:45
    not use this step but is done instead in
  • 00:30:48
    a large drum like you will see later and
  • 00:30:50
    takes less than a day this is how the
  • 00:30:53
    vegetable tanning extract comes to the
  • 00:30:54
    tannery it is made from tree bark that
  • 00:30:57
    is soaked in hot water to extract the
  • 00:30:59
    tannins then spray dried just like
  • 00:31:01
    coffee
  • 00:31:04
    the final chemical process is done in
  • 00:31:06
    large rotating drums or mills here the
  • 00:31:10
    leather is washed bleached dyed if
  • 00:31:12
    required and fat liquored with special
  • 00:31:14
    oils to penetrate and bind to the fibers
  • 00:31:16
    these are the types of drums that are
  • 00:31:19
    used for Chrome tanning as mentioned
  • 00:31:21
    earlier the wet leather is now rung on a
  • 00:31:24
    machine with a felt-covered roller very
  • 00:31:26
    much like grandma used to use for her
  • 00:31:28
    clothing
  • 00:31:41
    the damp leather is now smoothed out on
  • 00:31:43
    a setting machine a process similar to
  • 00:31:45
    boning or ironing without heat this also
  • 00:31:48
    takes out any stretch from the leather
  • 00:32:05
    the leather is now dried on frames in
  • 00:32:07
    temperature and humidity-controlled
  • 00:32:08
    rooms over three days the leather is now
  • 00:32:15
    dry and sent to the finishing Department
  • 00:32:17
    where Hermann oak trims the leather to
  • 00:32:19
    removed unusable edges
  • 00:32:39
    finished leather will go through a large
  • 00:32:41
    press numerous times to lay it flat and
  • 00:32:44
    smooth the grain even more
  • 00:32:55
    in the old days tanners used to sell
  • 00:32:57
    tannery run which meant a mix of
  • 00:33:00
    whatever hides come from the Packer
  • 00:33:02
    nowadays the leather is sorted into
  • 00:33:04
    stacks of different grades and
  • 00:33:05
    thicknesses and sold a specific grades
  • 00:33:07
    at Hermann oak leather is sold either by
  • 00:33:10
    individual grade or by tannery run which
  • 00:33:13
    means 25% a 50% B and 25% C grades with
  • 00:33:18
    no D X or brands we keep an inventory of
  • 00:33:23
    all base leathers to make sure we can
  • 00:33:25
    always ship every customer once an order
  • 00:33:29
    is placed the leather is selected
  • 00:33:30
    specifically for that customer based on
  • 00:33:33
    type of leather thickness and mix of
  • 00:33:35
    grades
  • 00:33:43
    leathers that require exact thickness
  • 00:33:45
    will be run through a dry splitting
  • 00:33:46
    machine
  • 00:33:51
    this splitting machine is the most
  • 00:33:52
    highly calibrated machine in the tannery
  • 00:33:54
    similar to that of a stitch and also
  • 00:33:56
    oisin
  • 00:34:16
    comparing to leathers of similar
  • 00:34:18
    thickness the dry split leather will be
  • 00:34:20
    weaker than the non split leather
  • 00:34:22
    because the fiber bundles have been
  • 00:34:23
    disturbed the grain layer is for looks
  • 00:34:26
    the fiber layer is for strength when the
  • 00:34:29
    leather is ready for shipment it will go
  • 00:34:31
    through the third and final grading
  • 00:34:32
    station and is checked for overall
  • 00:34:34
    quality and whether it meets the
  • 00:34:36
    customer specifications
  • 00:34:53
    the leather is then measured and stamped
  • 00:34:55
    with the square footage
  • 00:35:07
    the measuring machine must be calibrated
  • 00:35:10
    numerous times throughout the day with
  • 00:35:12
    the round black disc to ensure accuracy
  • 00:35:15
    finally the leather is rolled or
  • 00:35:17
    palletized loaded on trucks and sent on
  • 00:35:20
    its way
  • 00:35:38
    grading of the leather is based on the
  • 00:35:40
    intended use of the leather and is
  • 00:35:41
    usually standardized by type of leather
  • 00:35:43
    in general the prime or butt area is the
  • 00:35:47
    most important part of the side and is
  • 00:35:49
    graded the most heavily followed by the
  • 00:35:51
    shoulder and then the belly for skirting
  • 00:35:53
    leather the prime butt area where the
  • 00:35:55
    saddle seat is cut is the most important
  • 00:35:57
    for tooling in holster leather the prime
  • 00:35:59
    butt area is still most important yet
  • 00:36:02
    the shoulder is also important for
  • 00:36:03
    cutting parts for harness and rain
  • 00:36:07
    leather the center section for cutting
  • 00:36:08
    traces and reins is graded equally
  • 00:36:10
    throughout the side call 1-800 Weaver
  • 00:36:14
    one to request a free copy of our latest
  • 00:36:16
    supply catalog today
  • 00:36:29
    [Music]
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    [Music]
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    [Music]
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    [Music]
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    [Music]
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    [Music]
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    [Music]
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Tags
  • Leather
  • Tanning
  • Durability
  • Sustainability
  • Fashion
  • Dyed Leather
  • Quality Control
  • Pakistan
  • Raw Hides
  • Preservation