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Happy New Year everybody so I know
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everybody's been anticipating and wanted
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to know who won the giveaway for Santa
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mr. mark which includes the eSAB
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sentinel the rod oven and the welkom
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swag pack so we want to go ahead take a
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moment before we start the video to
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congratulate Jacob true yellow you are
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this year's winner for the giveaway so
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if you guys didn't win we definitely
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appreciate the support thanks for taking
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the time to enter we're gonna be doing
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some other giveaways so make sure you
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stay tuned and now without further ado
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check out this week's video so today we
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actually had a viewer request from a guy
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by the name of Paul Ruane I'm not sure
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if I'm pronouncing that right if I got
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it right good on me if not I apologized
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so he wanted to know how to do starts
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and stops with 7018 in the different
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positions so today we're gonna go ahead
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we're gonna cover horizontal vertical
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and overhead doing starts and stops with
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70 18s I've got a couple little tips
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that that might help you along the way
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and some things that you may not have
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thought about or some things you may
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have seen before and you just need a
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refresher on so we're gonna go ahead and
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get into it so I already have some 3/8
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plates prepped in a T joint we're just
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gonna go ahead and run a couple starts
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and stops throughout here and then we'll
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go ahead hit it in the vertical and the
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overhead position so for flat I'm gonna
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run about or I'm sorry for the
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horizontal T joint I have here I'm gonna
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run that at about 125 amps we're using
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the the eSAB 235 IC and we're going to
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use some of these new eSAB 70 18-1 prime
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rods with the graphite tips that are
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really great for arc initiation so let's
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go ahead get into it
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[Music]
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okay so once I terminate a weld I
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typically flick the electrode what that
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does that little glowing ball that's on
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the end there little molten metal ball
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that'll kind of fly off and that'll
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leave me with a bare exposed electrode
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so instead of taking the electrode out
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each time and smacking it on a table or
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the concrete or dragging it across
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something as soon as you get done
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welding before you even lift your hood
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up just just flick it real quick you'll
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knock that ball off and then you'll
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expose the bare core end of the
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electrode so that's like a little tip
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now the rods ready to go back into
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action so I don't have to smack it on
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the table or do anything fancy with it
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the core is already exposed and then I
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can go right back in and do my restart
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okay so you might have noticed in the
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arc shot when I was coming to an end I
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whipped out so you kind of want to do
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that you want it to be a nice surprise
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motion what I want to do is I want to
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leave a decent-sized crater in here
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that's going to give me something to tie
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back into now if I would have slowed
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down and filled the crater in and then
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stopped and try to tie back into that
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you're not going to do it very
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successfully you'd actually have to
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grind that out a little bit but to avoid
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that step if you just whip out you leave
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a nice little dish in there to accept
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your restore we're gonna go ahead and do
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that restart when I do it I'm gonna
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start right about here at the very end
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of this crater I'll initiate the arc
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here travel back to where the edge of my
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puddle flows where I terminate it
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originally and just do a slow steady
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just do a slow pause for a second and
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then start moving forward just like I
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never stopped
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okay so as you can see right here is the
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tie-in there's pretty good tie-in that
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having that crater there allowed me to
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fill metal on top of it and kind of lap
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it in there without having a cold lap
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and be able to burn into it and just
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continue on let's go ahead throw this up
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in the vertical position we'll do it
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again switching the vertical I went
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ahead and draw my answer to about 110
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[Music]
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[Applause]
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looks like good a spot as any
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determinate so once again I'm not gonna
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slow down I'm gonna keep that same speed
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and once I'm ready I'm just gonna whip
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right out of the puddle this should
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leave me a nice little divot all right
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let's go and clean this up and any time
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when working on like deep grooves Phila
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Wells or anything like that I like these
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wire brushes they've got that tapered
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brush in there so I can get all up on
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the toes of the weld right back in the
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corner you know if you've got a square
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cut brush it's hard to get into those
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areas you want to make sure everything's
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clean when you're doing this stuff that
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way you don't run in ferocity make sure
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you don't have any slag stuck in that
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crater where you're planning on doing
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your tie-in just as when we ran the
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tie-in in the the horizontal position
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I'm gonna start probably just a little
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bit higher because now I have gravity
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working against me
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so I'm probably gonna start about a
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quarter inch away from end of this
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crater here so I'll start about a
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quarter inch up I'm gonna strike off
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right in this area come down and touch
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it now one other thing you can do is you
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can start up here and just if you're not
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comfortable with welding yet you're
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still new to it and just drag down once
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you reach this spot here kind of pull
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back a little bit touch off I usually do
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like a little dip motion and then carry
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on like I never stopped so but if you're
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you're pretty familiar with welding you
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can touch off right here right in that
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area but like I said about a quarter
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inch above that crater bump back into it
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make it a little loop and then just
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start moving up okay so again right
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here's our tie-in get a good tie in
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there's no cold lap there's no overlap
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everything laid in nice and easy
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nice and smooth that's kind of exactly
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how you want it remember just start just
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above strike down once the edge of your
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puddle covers the top of that other
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piece of the crater then you're just
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gonna start moving like you never
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stopped let's go ahead and hit the
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overhead alright so now we're in the
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overhead position or 4f4 being the
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overhead position F being a Phillip
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we're gonna go ahead and do the same
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thing I'm just gonna strike in here I'm
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gonna weld about I'm about a third to
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half again
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we'll go ahead terminate I'll whip right
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out of that puddle and then I'll go
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ahead on the the restart I'll go ahead
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and use this this same rod we'll just
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kind of stopped prematurely or if I
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don't have enough rod we'll burn
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something down that way I can show you
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how to restart with a an electrode
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that's already been used especially for
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those of you that are out there buying
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your own electrodes you're not working
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for a company I know on a lot of job
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sites scene just piles you know people
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you know as soon as that rod sticks or
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something
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they break it free and even though it's
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so good rod they'll go Chuck in the
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waste bucket well if you have to pay for
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your own welding rods that stuff adds up
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real quick so I'll go ahead and I'll
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show you a little trick once we get you
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know once we go and make that
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termination and then we'll start off
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with a that same rod it's twisting it
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overhead I went ahead and bump my amps
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back up to 118 I like the world a little
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hotter in the overhead then I do in
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vertical and just a little colder that I
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run in flat
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just like a good spot we'll go ahead and
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get ready to terminate member terminate
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on your own terms
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don't let the rod dictate it just flip
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right out of it so here's that rod so
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what you can do you can smack it on a
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table or a piece of concrete drag it
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back and forth but what you do is you
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end up risking cracking that that flux
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that's on the outside you don't want to
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tear that flux up so just take you a
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file and you can just clean that back
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off and you get down to bare metal now
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another thing you can do is file this
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down so you get like somewhat of a point
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on there especially if you're working in
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a Filat or a tight gap this will help
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you ignite a lot easier yeah it seems
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like a little bit more work probably
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useless to a lot of people but if you're
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just starting out this is gonna help you
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get that to a little point you know at a
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45 degree angle you can get in there and
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get into that corner that weld so you're
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definitely gonna make contact with metal
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in a groove weld you can you know remain
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pretty much flat and just you know tap
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it and touch off and then ignite that
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way but like in a tight Phillip you know
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if you've got a little point on that rod
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it's gonna help you out quite a bit
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so now I've got that nice little crater
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in there I'm just gonna do the exact
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same thing I'll start right here at the
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edge of that crater maybe probably about
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I don't know maybe quarter inch in front
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of it I'll strike there and whip back to
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it and then I'll wait till you know it
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ties in right here and then I'll just
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move forward
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the biggest problem a lot of people make
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is they don't go back far enough or they
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go back too far you go back too far
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you're gonna get a lap in there you have
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a real thick part if you don't go back
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far enough you're gonna have a
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separation between the two welds I
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typically recommend you know get in here
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brace yourself up maybe use two hands
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and just kind of take that welding rod
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and strike off use those two hands I
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mean there's nothing wrong with brace
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yourself propping yourself up and just
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you know just making life a little bit
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easier so you can start right there
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strike it and then move back forward and
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then just get that hand out of the way
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so tie it in pretty good I don't have a
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big lump in there don't have a big
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separation in there it looks like a very
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smooth uniform transition which is what
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I'm looking for
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and then we just carry it on out there
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okay ladies and gentlemen and Paul I
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hope that answers your question hope
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that helps some of you guys out along
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the way although it may seem pretty
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basic to a lot of people you know we
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have a lot of people that are just
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learning how to
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here so it's a very you know informative
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way of approaching things one thing I
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highly recommend is if you're in Welding
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school or you know you're at home in the
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garage practicing get yourself like a
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six or eight inch piece of 3/8 plate
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right gives you some 70 18 rods and just
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run try to run two to three inches stop
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whip out clean everything up and then
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try to tie back in and just do a I think
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Bob made a video a while back first
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rules of arc welding is welding a
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straight line run that same practice
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that he talked about but you know do
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this with starts and stops as well go
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back in there and once you get good in
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the flat position where you really can't
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tell where that transition occurred
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moving to horizontal same thing flat
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plate then go into vertical then
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overhead and then practice on Philips
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and then practice on grooves and just
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you know get into the habit of all those
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different well you know positions and
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the angles and stuff you have to work
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with and try doing your starts and stops
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in all those different positions and
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kind of see what's works best for you
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one thing I forgot to mention is crank
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up your hot start a little bit every
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machines gonna be a little bit different
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I think I've read about 8% hot start on
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this one and that's just going to give
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you a momentary increase in amperage at
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the initiation of that arc so let's say
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it's at a for all intents and purposes
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let's say we're at a hundred amps or a
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hundred amps if I run a percent hot
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start that's gonna kick me up to 108
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amps okay it's just eight percent of
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whatever you're welding on or you know
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if you run ten percent you know it's
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gonna pick you up ten percent higher
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than the current you you set your
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machine at and what that's gonna do
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that's going to give you a little bit
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more oomph at the start to help that
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weld lay a little bit flatter inside
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that crater hope you guys enjoyed the
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video and until next time make every
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well better than your last
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