The Rise of Japanese Watches (& How the Swiss Lost)

00:20:50
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V2MWfQkVo6s

Sintesi

TLDRThe video explores the development of Japan as a major player in the global watch industry. Initially, Japan was reliant on Swiss and American imports, but by acquiring the Swiss watchmaking secrets and utilizing an import substitution policy, Japan quickly developed its domestic industry. Figures like Kintaro Hattori played pivotal roles, establishing companies like Seiko, which became industry leaders. Japan's local industry boomed through duties on imports and adopting Swiss technological practices, peaking during the quartz revolution of the 20th century. The introduction of the Seiko Astron, the first quartz watch, signified a major shift from mechanical watches and showcased Japan's innovative capacity. However, after experiencing peak influence in the 1980s, the Japanese watch industry later faced challenges due to rising competition from Hong Kong and China, leading to a decline and subsequent relocation of manufacturing facilities. Meanwhile, the Swiss, despite initial setbacks, have successfully carved a niche in luxury watches under conglomerates like the Swatch Group.

Punti di forza

  • 🕰 Japan became a huge player in the watch industry by acquiring Swiss watchmaking secrets.
  • 🇯🇵 Japanese watch industry started with clocks before moving onto watches.
  • 🔄 Import substitution policies helped protect and grow Japan's watch industry.
  • 👨‍🏭 Kintaro Hattori was instrumental in Japan's early watch manufacturing developments.
  • ⏱ Seiko Astron was the first quartz watch, disrupting mechanical watch dominance.
  • 🛡 The Swiss responded to Japan's growth by creating a cartel to protect their market.
  • ⚙ Quartz watches used consistent vibrations of quartz crystals for timekeeping.
  • 📉 Japan's watch industry peaked in the 1980s but declined due to new competition.
  • 🇭🇰 Competition from Hong Kong and China affected Japan's later watch market.
  • 🕴 Swiss luxury watches rebranded themselves under the Swatch Group post quartz era.

Linea temporale

  • 00:00:00 - 00:05:00

    The video explores the history of Japanese watchmaking, starting with the influence and dominance of Swiss and American watch industries in the late 19th century. It highlights how Japan began importing Western clocks and watches as part of its modernization, leading to the establishment of its own clock manufacturing industry. Pioneers like Kintaro Hattori played crucial roles by establishing factories and acquiring watch components from Switzerland to build Japanese watches, despite initial challenges competing in quality and cost against Western imports. Government policies like high tariffs helped protect and grow the domestic industry.

  • 00:05:00 - 00:10:00

    By the early 20th century, the Japanese watch industry began showing significant growth, driven by local production and export strategies. With government support through tariffs, firms like Hattori's Seiko captured significant market share. The growth was marked by learning and adapting Swiss watchmaking techniques, while also importing watch movements to assemble and refine locally. The development and expansion of companies like Citizen further marked Japan's ascension in the watch market, directly challenging Swiss dominance as the country aimed for self-reliance and international export capabilities.

  • 00:10:00 - 00:15:00

    The Swiss watch industry's complacency and adherence to mechanical tradition faced disruption with the advent of quartz technology, primarily led by Japanese companies such as Seiko. By reducing reliance on precision artisanal skills and leveraging semiconductor advancements, Seiko and other Japanese firms pioneered the quartz watch revolution, which offered higher accuracy and lower production costs. This technological shift coincided with global market changes post-World War II, highlighting Japan's ability to innovate and effectively capture substantial market share, particularly in the United States.

  • 00:15:00 - 00:20:50

    As quartz watches gained popularity, Japanese firms like Seiko, Citizen, and Casio significantly increased their exports to the U.S., challenging Swiss market share. The Swiss, despite prior awareness and initial developments in quartz technology, struggled to adapt due to their commitment to mechanical craftsmanship and industry fragmentation. Japanese watches, integrating modern electronic and semiconductor technologies, proved dominant into the 1980s. Eventually, the Swiss repositioned themselves in the luxury segment with brands like Swatch, whereas the Japanese industry faced new challenges from Asian competitors, leading to its manufacturing relocation and later stagnation.

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Video Domande e Risposte

  • What were the two dominant countries in the watch industry before Japan's rise?

    The United States and Switzerland were the dominant countries in the watch industry before Japan's rise.

  • How did Japan start to become a major player in the watch industry?

    Japan began by replicating simpler clock technologies, gaining expertise over time and increasing production, ultimately entering the watch industry using both local innovations and Swiss importation of watch parts.

  • What role did tariffs play in Japan’s watch industry development?

    Tariffs protected Japan's domestic manufacturing by deterring imports, thus allowing local firms like Hattori to dominate the domestic market and enhancing Japan's watch industry.

  • Who was Kintaro Hattori and what was his contribution to the watch industry?

    Kintaro Hattori founded Seiko and contributed by improving manufacturing capacities, focusing on select models, and importing Swiss parts to build a strong watch manufacturing company in Japan.

  • What was the significance of the Seiko Astron watch?

    The Seiko Astron was revolutionary as it was the first quartz watch, heralding a new era of watchmaking that utilized quartz technology for high precision timekeeping.

  • How did the Swiss respond to the Japanese watch market rise?

    The Swiss restructured their industry into a cartel to control business and production, but ultimately shifted towards quartz technologies after losing significant market share.

  • What technological breakthrough did quartz watches provide?

    Quartz watches offered more accurate timekeeping by utilizing the consistent vibrations of quartz crystals, making them superior to mechanical watches.

  • In what era did Japan's watch industry peak?

    Japan's watch industry peaked in the 1980s.

  • What challenges did Japanese watchmakers face after their peak?

    Japanese watchmakers faced competition from emerging industrial centers like Hong Kong and China, leading to industrial stagnation and the relocation of manufacturing.

  • What is the Swatch group?

    The Swatch group is a luxury brand conglomerate formed by the Swiss watch industry to maintain their niche market after adopting quartz technology.

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Scorrimento automatico:
  • 00:00:02
    at the time of Japan's opening up almost
  • 00:00:04
    all of the world's watches came from
  • 00:00:06
    either the United States or Switzerland
  • 00:00:09
    the Swiss sought to keep their secrets
  • 00:00:11
    from leaking out to other countries but
  • 00:00:13
    those Secrets still got out and with
  • 00:00:15
    them Japan became one of the world's
  • 00:00:17
    biggest makers of
  • 00:00:18
    watches in this video we're going to
  • 00:00:21
    look at the start rise and peak of
  • 00:00:23
    Japanese watches but first a sponsor
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    read for the asianometry newsletter I
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    know there's a lot of newsletters out
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    there but I try to give mine a lot of
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    value check them out for full scripts
  • 00:00:34
    and commentary after the fact the sign
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    up link is in the video description
  • 00:00:38
    below I try to put one out every week
  • 00:00:40
    maybe two all right back to the show at
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    the turn of the century the watch World
  • 00:00:45
    had been divided between the United
  • 00:00:46
    States and the Swiss but the ways in
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    which the two succeeded were very
  • 00:00:51
    different in the United States a small
  • 00:00:53
    number of big companies like walam watch
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    and Elgen watch produce hundreds of
  • 00:00:57
    thousands of pocket watches for domestic
  • 00:01:00
    consumption these simple cheap watches
  • 00:01:02
    were made with screw automation
  • 00:01:04
    technology adapted from sewing
  • 00:01:06
    machines the Swiss Watch industry on the
  • 00:01:09
    other hand was the total opposite the
  • 00:01:11
    industry consisted of many small
  • 00:01:13
    companies contributing to a wide range
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    of high Precision Time pieces so a
  • 00:01:18
    little more high
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    class in 1901 Swiss statistics found
  • 00:01:23
    that there were 663 watch industry firms
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    employing
  • 00:01:27
    24,8 58 people
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    the largest company longans employed
  • 00:01:33
    just 853 of
  • 00:01:35
    that in 1905 longin produced 130,000
  • 00:01:40
    pieces in comparison walam was producing
  • 00:01:43
    multiples more pieces annually just a
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    few years
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    prior Swiss diversity had been a
  • 00:01:49
    strength producing many products to
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    cater to everyone's needs all of them
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    were exported abroad Switzerland
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    dominated the pocket watch export Market
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    with something like 93% % market
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    share when it came to building up
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    railroads telegraphs or the military
  • 00:02:06
    Japan rapidly adopted Western
  • 00:02:08
    Technologies the government's
  • 00:02:09
    overarching goal was modernization they
  • 00:02:12
    wanted to catch up with the West so back
  • 00:02:16
    then clocks were all the rage has to fit
  • 00:02:18
    in with part of their overall
  • 00:02:20
    modernization movement when westerners
  • 00:02:22
    first started importing watches into
  • 00:02:24
    Japan during the 1860s the items were
  • 00:02:27
    mostly seen as Deluxe Goods for the
  • 00:02:29
    social
  • 00:02:30
    Elite in 1868 Japan reported that
  • 00:02:34
    1,185 wall clocks and just 300 pocket
  • 00:02:38
    watches were imported into the
  • 00:02:40
    country by 1887 over 700,000 clocks
  • 00:02:44
    entered Japan that were installed in
  • 00:02:46
    hospitals schools town halls and post
  • 00:02:50
    offices during this period of time Japan
  • 00:02:53
    sought to wean itself off clock imports
  • 00:02:55
    from the United States since Clocks Were
  • 00:02:58
    technologically simpler than watches
  • 00:03:00
    the Japanese early clock industry
  • 00:03:02
    focused on replicating them in 1888
  • 00:03:05
    Hayashi shii a Time piece retailer
  • 00:03:08
    opened Japan's first modern clock
  • 00:03:10
    Factory it was a success and Hayashi
  • 00:03:13
    opened five more factories in Osaka
  • 00:03:15
    Tokyo and so
  • 00:03:17
    on Japan's clock industry rapidly gained
  • 00:03:20
    competence in clock manufacturing with
  • 00:03:22
    production volume going from
  • 00:03:24
    37,46 pieces in 1905 to 1.2 million in
  • 00:03:29
    192 2 there were over 20 clock factories
  • 00:03:32
    on the eve of World War
  • 00:03:35
    I at first domestic demand and Military
  • 00:03:38
    demand in particular drove this Market
  • 00:03:40
    but Hayashi started exporting its excess
  • 00:03:43
    production to cities of the Far East
  • 00:03:45
    like Shanghai Singapore Hong Kong and
  • 00:03:48
    Bombay by the 1930s Japan was a clock
  • 00:03:51
    exporting power with 35% of the total
  • 00:03:55
    Market over the same time period people
  • 00:03:58
    started wearing pocket watches in 1887
  • 00:04:01
    it was estimated that just 0.8% of
  • 00:04:04
    Japanese regularly wore watches that
  • 00:04:07
    number grew to 4.2% in 1897 and then
  • 00:04:11
    finally 10% in
  • 00:04:13
    1907 as pocket Watchers got popular
  • 00:04:16
    Japanese companies sought to make them
  • 00:04:18
    the biggest of which was a Japanese
  • 00:04:20
    company called hator Ino founded by
  • 00:04:22
    hatori
  • 00:04:24
    kintaro hatori learned the watch
  • 00:04:26
    industry at the age of 13 in a clock
  • 00:04:28
    dealership in Tokyo then in 1877 at the
  • 00:04:31
    age of 17 he opened up his own shop
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    which repaired and resold watches in
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    1881 he married the daughter of a watch
  • 00:04:39
    Trader he purchased a shop from his new
  • 00:04:42
    father-in-law and started selling
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    imported Swiss and American
  • 00:04:46
    watches to acquire his product he rode
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    the railroad to what is now sakuragicho
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    station in Yokohama to meet with Swiss
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    trading
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    houses when the Japanese clock boom
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    arrived hatori saw the opportunity and
  • 00:04:59
    in 1895 opened his own factory making
  • 00:05:02
    wall clocks and then high-end
  • 00:05:04
    grandfather clocks he gave that factory
  • 00:05:06
    the name
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    seha a mechanical watch uses very small
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    precision-made parts assembled in a
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    painstaking process that took a lot of
  • 00:05:15
    time and skill a watch's heart and soul
  • 00:05:18
    are its movements or movement Parts the
  • 00:05:21
    parts that keep the watch ticking
  • 00:05:24
    accurately Japanese Watchers couldn't
  • 00:05:26
    compete with Swiss and American
  • 00:05:28
    companies they weren't as thin accurate
  • 00:05:30
    or reliable as their
  • 00:05:32
    competitors they also cost more than
  • 00:05:34
    their imported competitors the selling
  • 00:05:37
    quantities were not high enough for the
  • 00:05:38
    Japanese factories to gain economies of
  • 00:05:42
    scale these Western Imports had poured
  • 00:05:44
    into the country so freely because in
  • 00:05:46
    the mid 1800s Japan and the United
  • 00:05:49
    States signed an unequal treaty opening
  • 00:05:52
    up several treaty ports in the country
  • 00:05:55
    but in 1899 that treaty lapsed and Japan
  • 00:05:57
    regained sovereignty over their trade
  • 00:05:59
    Rel
  • 00:06:00
    ations the Japanese government then
  • 00:06:02
    immediately embarked on an import
  • 00:06:04
    substitution policy raising tariffs to
  • 00:06:06
    deter Imports and protect domestic
  • 00:06:09
    manufacturing before 1899 silver and
  • 00:06:12
    nickel watch Imports had a 5% tariff
  • 00:06:15
    pretty low after that year those rates
  • 00:06:18
    went up to 25% and then 40% in
  • 00:06:22
    1906 the Japanese did similar actions
  • 00:06:25
    for bicycles Machine Tools hydroelectric
  • 00:06:28
    turbines so machines and
  • 00:06:31
    Automobiles protected from Western
  • 00:06:34
    Imports Hat's watch making business took
  • 00:06:37
    off from 1906 to 1930 his clocks took
  • 00:06:40
    48% of the domestic market and his
  • 00:06:43
    watches 85% of the
  • 00:06:45
    market government protection and high
  • 00:06:48
    tariffs were definitely part of the
  • 00:06:49
    reason why he did so well but not the
  • 00:06:51
    only one Hat's company improved their
  • 00:06:54
    manufacturing capacity by focusing on
  • 00:06:57
    automating a small number of Select
  • 00:06:59
    Swiss inspired
  • 00:07:01
    models hot's company released 25 watch
  • 00:07:04
    types between 1895 and
  • 00:07:06
    1937 just three of those types sold well
  • 00:07:10
    the 1909 Empire pocket watch and two
  • 00:07:12
    wrist watches the Laurel and the Seiko
  • 00:07:16
    to gain expertise in producing these
  • 00:07:18
    hatui hired engineering labor from Tokyo
  • 00:07:21
    universities to disassemble Swiss
  • 00:07:23
    watches and learn how to put them back
  • 00:07:26
    together and more importantly he sourced
  • 00:07:29
    Raw watch parts from Switzerland which
  • 00:07:31
    weren't subject to tariffs from 1915 to
  • 00:07:35
    1935 Switzerland provided 69% nice of
  • 00:07:39
    Japan's watch
  • 00:07:40
    Parts this practice of first importing
  • 00:07:43
    disassemble watch movement sets and
  • 00:07:45
    putting them together inside the borders
  • 00:07:47
    was referred to as shablon named after
  • 00:07:50
    the word shablon which means movement
  • 00:07:54
    sets from 1895 to 1899 Japan imported
  • 00:07:58
    22,5 100 watch movements from the United
  • 00:08:01
    States and Switzerland then in 1900 the
  • 00:08:04
    first year of the terrorists on finished
  • 00:08:06
    watches Japan imported
  • 00:08:09
    122,000 movements and then in 1905
  • 00:08:14
    250,000 by then Japan was importing far
  • 00:08:17
    more movements than finished
  • 00:08:20
    watches the Swiss Watch industry became
  • 00:08:23
    concerned rightly so the shablin would
  • 00:08:25
    be their long-term downfall transfer and
  • 00:08:28
    critical watchmaking expertise to other
  • 00:08:30
    countries here's an example in 1894 a
  • 00:08:34
    Swiss citizen Rudolph Schmidt settled in
  • 00:08:37
    Yokohama and opened a Trading Company
  • 00:08:40
    his company first started out by
  • 00:08:41
    importing and selling complete watches
  • 00:08:43
    but changed After Japan raised the
  • 00:08:46
    tariffs in 1908 after the second round
  • 00:08:49
    of tariff increases he began importing
  • 00:08:51
    shablon into Japan there at his Workshop
  • 00:08:55
    in Yokohama Schmidt finished his watches
  • 00:08:57
    with cases imported from his family 's
  • 00:08:59
    watch case Factory in Switzerland then
  • 00:09:02
    in 1910 Schmidt shifted the entire
  • 00:09:05
    process case making and all to Japan
  • 00:09:08
    which infuriated and alarmed members of
  • 00:09:10
    the Swiss Watch industry in 1912 he
  • 00:09:13
    moved his Yokohama Factory to Tokyo
  • 00:09:16
    where his company started to get very
  • 00:09:18
    large in 1930 under sketchy and
  • 00:09:21
    uncertain circumstances Schmid acquired
  • 00:09:23
    a watchmaking workshop called
  • 00:09:26
    shosha that Workshop was renamed to the
  • 00:09:29
    C Cen watch company a name Schmidt had
  • 00:09:31
    owned since
  • 00:09:32
    1918 citizen would rise to become the
  • 00:09:35
    Japanese industry's second significant
  • 00:09:37
    watch maker after hatan Co or
  • 00:09:41
    Seiko what happened in Japan was the sum
  • 00:09:44
    of all Swiss fears in 1935 hattori's
  • 00:09:47
    watch Factory became the single largest
  • 00:09:49
    in the world and what's worse hatori and
  • 00:09:52
    citizen started expanding abroad one
  • 00:09:55
    advert read our watches are Japanese
  • 00:09:58
    made the Japanese workers's
  • 00:10:00
    extraordinary aptitude for any type of
  • 00:10:03
    fine painstaking work as well as his
  • 00:10:05
    exceptional output or
  • 00:10:08
    welln with watch exports declining
  • 00:10:10
    throughout the 1920s the Swiss
  • 00:10:12
    reorganized their industry into a
  • 00:10:15
    cartel part suppliers signed agreements
  • 00:10:18
    called watchmaking conventions making it
  • 00:10:20
    so that they can only do business with
  • 00:10:22
    each other a holding company was set up
  • 00:10:25
    named asag to purchase all the various
  • 00:10:28
    movement man
  • 00:10:30
    manufacturers in 1934 the government
  • 00:10:33
    stepped in eventually controlling all
  • 00:10:35
    watchmaking activities and monitoring
  • 00:10:37
    all exports of watch parts and Machine
  • 00:10:39
    Tools shablin was made
  • 00:10:42
    illegal this largely managed to achieve
  • 00:10:44
    its goals for the next few decades the
  • 00:10:47
    Swiss Watch industry enjoyed High
  • 00:10:49
    profits and a consistent 50% share of
  • 00:10:52
    the global watch
  • 00:10:54
    Market the 1930s also saw a market
  • 00:10:57
    transition from pocket watches to R
  • 00:10:59
    watches watches also gain new features
  • 00:11:02
    like self-winding movement calendars and
  • 00:11:04
    waterproof cases all the while becoming
  • 00:11:07
    smaller and more
  • 00:11:09
    complicated then came World War II most
  • 00:11:12
    Watchers companies with the exception of
  • 00:11:14
    the Swiss halted their production and
  • 00:11:16
    saved their medals for the war effort
  • 00:11:19
    many companies were drafted into
  • 00:11:20
    producing Precision Tools the Swiss
  • 00:11:23
    stayed neutral giving them a leg up in
  • 00:11:25
    the global
  • 00:11:27
    market America's watch company struggled
  • 00:11:29
    in the wake of the war unable to compete
  • 00:11:31
    against cheap Swiss watch Imports
  • 00:11:34
    despite new tariffs from the United
  • 00:11:35
    States government the American watch
  • 00:11:37
    industry entered a long-term Decline and
  • 00:11:41
    consolidation hatan Co pushed hard to
  • 00:11:43
    get through that postwar slump and
  • 00:11:45
    compete on an even footing against the
  • 00:11:47
    Swiss they copied Swiss Machine Tools
  • 00:11:50
    studied Swiss methods during trips to
  • 00:11:52
    Europe and worked through loopholes in
  • 00:11:54
    the cartel
  • 00:11:55
    system by 1966 hatori would eventually
  • 00:11:58
    produce mechanical watches that
  • 00:12:00
    performed as well as their Swiss
  • 00:12:02
    counterparts establishing themselves as
  • 00:12:05
    world
  • 00:12:06
    leaders but at the same time the company
  • 00:12:08
    sought to bring to Market a new type of
  • 00:12:10
    watch one that would completely disrupt
  • 00:12:13
    the mechanical watch
  • 00:12:15
    World the technology principles behind
  • 00:12:18
    the courts watch have been around for a
  • 00:12:19
    long time in the 1880s Pierre curri
  • 00:12:23
    husband to the legendary Marie Cur
  • 00:12:25
    discovered that if you applied pressure
  • 00:12:27
    or alternating current to a courts
  • 00:12:29
    Crystal it
  • 00:12:30
    vibrates and it vibrates at a very
  • 00:12:33
    consistent number 33,000 times a second
  • 00:12:36
    such a property could be leveraged to
  • 00:12:38
    make time pieces far more accurate than
  • 00:12:40
    any mechanical
  • 00:12:42
    clock then in 1927 an engineer at Bell
  • 00:12:46
    Labs created a high Precision quartz
  • 00:12:48
    clock the size of a whole room Ultra
  • 00:12:51
    accurate timekeeping hadn't been his
  • 00:12:53
    intention with the device but he did not
  • 00:12:56
    that it could serve as one in the years
  • 00:12:58
    since a quartz crystal making industry
  • 00:13:01
    sprung up to supply radios then in 1960
  • 00:13:05
    watch maker Bova one of the big two
  • 00:13:08
    American watch makers left standing
  • 00:13:10
    rolled out the first commercial
  • 00:13:11
    electronic watch they unveiled the
  • 00:13:14
    acutron with a big marketing Blitz
  • 00:13:16
    across 13 US cities acutron wasn't
  • 00:13:20
    quartz powerered but rather used a 36 HZ
  • 00:13:23
    tuning fork the watch was 10 times more
  • 00:13:26
    accurate than a mechanical watch while
  • 00:13:28
    using far fewer discret
  • 00:13:30
    Parts Acron Tech was developed by the
  • 00:13:33
    Swiss scientist Max hetel who only
  • 00:13:35
    turned to the American watch markets
  • 00:13:37
    after he couldn't interest anyone in
  • 00:13:39
    Switzerland with his
  • 00:13:41
    ideas Bova with the acutron turned out
  • 00:13:43
    to be one of those cases of first mover
  • 00:13:46
    disadvantage they stuck to their tuning
  • 00:13:48
    fork technology even after it became
  • 00:13:50
    clear that quz was the future they're
  • 00:13:54
    eventually acquired by the conglomerate
  • 00:13:55
    Lowe's but the acutron nevertheless sh
  • 00:13:59
    roed the industry and kicked into motion
  • 00:14:01
    a surge of technological development in
  • 00:14:03
    electronic watches across the US Japan
  • 00:14:07
    and
  • 00:14:08
    Switzerland in 1959 hatori now Seiko
  • 00:14:12
    formed a new team to commercialize
  • 00:14:13
    quartz timekeepers with the transistor's
  • 00:14:17
    commercialization small circuits can now
  • 00:14:19
    feed power into a quartz crystal measure
  • 00:14:21
    its oscillations and translate them into
  • 00:14:24
    second
  • 00:14:25
    pulses their first goal was to have a
  • 00:14:27
    portable quartz chronometer in time for
  • 00:14:29
    the Tokyo Olympics in
  • 00:14:32
    2021 oh I mean 2020 no it can't be that
  • 00:14:37
    1964 there we go somehow this group of
  • 00:14:41
    ragtag mechanical engineers managed to
  • 00:14:44
    ship this electronic quartz-based
  • 00:14:47
    chronometer after that they set out to
  • 00:14:49
    miniaturize the technology into a watch
  • 00:14:52
    the watch they eventually produced was a
  • 00:14:54
    mismash of ill-fitting components
  • 00:14:57
    without access to Advanced inte
  • 00:14:59
    integrated circuits they created a hand
  • 00:15:01
    soldered hybrid circuit made of 76
  • 00:15:03
    transistors 29 condensers and 84
  • 00:15:06
    resistors the original in-house team at
  • 00:15:09
    Seiko had actually failed to master the
  • 00:15:11
    seos production process so they
  • 00:15:13
    outsourced the work to the American
  • 00:15:15
    firmed interel interel completed the
  • 00:15:18
    project and signed over their process
  • 00:15:19
    knowledge to
  • 00:15:21
    Seiko Seiko produced much of their
  • 00:15:23
    transistors in house but occasionally
  • 00:15:25
    tapped capacity at the country's big
  • 00:15:27
    producers Hitachi NEC and Toshiba the
  • 00:15:31
    Seiko Astron SQ went on sale in Tokyo on
  • 00:15:35
    Christmas Day 1969 for what would be
  • 00:15:38
    $31,000 today this elegant limited
  • 00:15:41
    edition gold watch had a simple
  • 00:15:43
    functional look but the thing heralded a
  • 00:15:47
    revolution Seiko chose to market the
  • 00:15:49
    Astron with the line someday all watches
  • 00:15:52
    will be made this way they were
  • 00:15:54
    right the Astron was revolutionary but
  • 00:15:57
    its sales numbers the first few years
  • 00:15:59
    did not set the world on fire in 1971
  • 00:16:02
    hotor announced that they sold just
  • 00:16:04
    3,000 Astron digital watches needed
  • 00:16:07
    another piece before they really stormed
  • 00:16:09
    the
  • 00:16:09
    gates out in Pennsylvania a company
  • 00:16:12
    called Hamilton Watch was working on
  • 00:16:14
    their own quartz watch seizing on a new
  • 00:16:17
    technology called light and meting
  • 00:16:19
    diodes they ditched the hands and dial
  • 00:16:21
    completely and just displayed the time
  • 00:16:23
    and date Hamilton called their Pulsar a
  • 00:16:26
    wrist computer decades before they Apple
  • 00:16:29
    watch became a thing it was first
  • 00:16:31
    released as a P1 version in Gold taking
  • 00:16:33
    a luxury fashion angle to offset the
  • 00:16:36
    high cost of production but it really
  • 00:16:39
    took off when James Bond wore a P2
  • 00:16:41
    version in the movie Live and Let Die
  • 00:16:44
    never watched that one more of a Shan
  • 00:16:46
    connory fan
  • 00:16:48
    myself anyway by the mid1 1970s LED
  • 00:16:52
    quartz watches had become the market
  • 00:16:54
    Standard in 1974 World consumers bought
  • 00:16:57
    650,000 Led Watch watches and analysts
  • 00:17:00
    predicted that number would rise to 10
  • 00:17:02
    million in a few years LED watches would
  • 00:17:05
    eventually give way to LCD watches do in
  • 00:17:08
    part to their better battery life
  • 00:17:10
    consumption various integrated circuit
  • 00:17:13
    firms and traditional watch companies
  • 00:17:15
    rushed into the digital courts watch
  • 00:17:17
    category they are excited to find a
  • 00:17:19
    killer app for which they can sell their
  • 00:17:21
    chips for instance Texas Instruments
  • 00:17:24
    sold the digital solid state Led Watch
  • 00:17:27
    for between $95 And1
  • 00:17:29
    $175 in the same retail outlets who sold
  • 00:17:32
    their calculator
  • 00:17:34
    products even Intel had their fingers in
  • 00:17:36
    The Watch pie for a little bit in 1972
  • 00:17:39
    the company acquired digital watchmaker
  • 00:17:41
    microma and made
  • 00:17:43
    SmartWatches Casio was another one of
  • 00:17:45
    those companies having started as a
  • 00:17:47
    calculator company they went
  • 00:17:48
    head-to-head with the US firm timx at
  • 00:17:51
    the low end offering their low price
  • 00:17:53
    models in drug stores across the
  • 00:17:55
    country Japanese watch exports into the
  • 00:17:58
    United States States a critical Swiss
  • 00:18:00
    market exploded export value grew nearly
  • 00:18:03
    10 times over reaching 26 million USD in
  • 00:18:07
    1975 watches were nearly 20% of total
  • 00:18:11
    Japanese
  • 00:18:12
    exports Swiss exports stagnated and
  • 00:18:15
    their market share plummeted from 83% at
  • 00:18:17
    the start of the 1970s to just 20% in
  • 00:18:21
    1980 by 1985 Japanese watch exports into
  • 00:18:25
    the United States total $373 million
  • 00:18:29
    Seiko Citizen and Casio watches had
  • 00:18:31
    effectively pushed the Swiss out of
  • 00:18:33
    their most valuable
  • 00:18:36
    Market it is important to note that
  • 00:18:38
    Japanese mechanical watches were as good
  • 00:18:40
    as Swiss watches before the Astron came
  • 00:18:43
    along hattori's acquisition of Swiss
  • 00:18:46
    Technologies and expertise is a
  • 00:18:48
    reflection that export restrictions
  • 00:18:50
    don't always work as
  • 00:18:52
    planned but the Swiss Watch industry
  • 00:18:55
    really fumbled the industry shift to
  • 00:18:56
    courts despite long being a Ware of the
  • 00:18:59
    technology they had even demoed their
  • 00:19:01
    own prototypes in
  • 00:19:03
    1967 2 years before the
  • 00:19:06
    Astron but the Swiss took a great deal
  • 00:19:08
    of pride in their mechanical Heritage
  • 00:19:10
    and their sprawling industry structure
  • 00:19:12
    of many small firms worked against them
  • 00:19:15
    no individual Swiss company had the
  • 00:19:17
    resources initiative or broad expertise
  • 00:19:21
    to build such a thing on their own a
  • 00:19:24
    mechanical watch and a consistently
  • 00:19:26
    accurate one is hard to make you need a
  • 00:19:28
    trained Artisans and painstaking effort
  • 00:19:31
    a digital watch made with modern
  • 00:19:32
    semiconductor production methods
  • 00:19:34
    overwhelms all that human training with
  • 00:19:37
    Titanic
  • 00:19:38
    scale courtz watches ended the Swiss
  • 00:19:40
    grip on the global watch industry as
  • 00:19:43
    late as 1974 they had 40% of the global
  • 00:19:46
    market 10 years later that share shrank
  • 00:19:49
    to just 10% by 1983 over half of the
  • 00:19:53
    country's watchmakers had gone
  • 00:19:55
    bankrupt due to necessity the Swiss had
  • 00:19:58
    also shifted to courts Technologies and
  • 00:20:00
    for a brief period of time it seemed
  • 00:20:02
    like mechanical watch production
  • 00:20:03
    techniques would be lost to the sands of
  • 00:20:06
    time but the Swiss mechanical watch
  • 00:20:08
    industry has made a bit of a comeback
  • 00:20:10
    since then having recognized that their
  • 00:20:12
    products have value Beyond just
  • 00:20:14
    accurately keeping the time
  • 00:20:16
    restructuring into the Swatch group The
  • 00:20:19
    Swiss created luxury watch brands and
  • 00:20:21
    have since thrived in their Niche the
  • 00:20:24
    Japanese watch industry on the other
  • 00:20:26
    hand peaked in the 1980s challenged by
  • 00:20:29
    industrial competitors in Hong Kong and
  • 00:20:31
    then China the industry stagnated and
  • 00:20:33
    relocated their manufacturing abroad
  • 00:20:36
    they have since struggled to return to
  • 00:20:38
    the peaks of their Glory years but that
  • 00:20:41
    is a story for another time all right
  • 00:20:43
    everyone that's it for tonight thanks
  • 00:20:44
    for watching subscribe to the Channel
  • 00:20:46
    Sign up for the newsletter and I'll see
  • 00:20:48
    you guys next time
Tag
  • Japanese Watches
  • Swiss Watches
  • Quartz Revolution
  • Kintaro Hattori
  • Seiko
  • Swatch Group
  • Watch Industry History
  • Import Substitution
  • Mechanical Watches
  • Luxury Watches