00:00:02
at the time of Japan's opening up almost
00:00:04
all of the world's watches came from
00:00:06
either the United States or Switzerland
00:00:09
the Swiss sought to keep their secrets
00:00:11
from leaking out to other countries but
00:00:13
those Secrets still got out and with
00:00:15
them Japan became one of the world's
00:00:17
biggest makers of
00:00:18
watches in this video we're going to
00:00:21
look at the start rise and peak of
00:00:23
Japanese watches but first a sponsor
00:00:26
read for the asianometry newsletter I
00:00:28
know there's a lot of newsletters out
00:00:30
there but I try to give mine a lot of
00:00:31
value check them out for full scripts
00:00:34
and commentary after the fact the sign
00:00:36
up link is in the video description
00:00:38
below I try to put one out every week
00:00:40
maybe two all right back to the show at
00:00:43
the turn of the century the watch World
00:00:45
had been divided between the United
00:00:46
States and the Swiss but the ways in
00:00:48
which the two succeeded were very
00:00:51
different in the United States a small
00:00:53
number of big companies like walam watch
00:00:55
and Elgen watch produce hundreds of
00:00:57
thousands of pocket watches for domestic
00:01:00
consumption these simple cheap watches
00:01:02
were made with screw automation
00:01:04
technology adapted from sewing
00:01:06
machines the Swiss Watch industry on the
00:01:09
other hand was the total opposite the
00:01:11
industry consisted of many small
00:01:13
companies contributing to a wide range
00:01:15
of high Precision Time pieces so a
00:01:18
little more high
00:01:20
class in 1901 Swiss statistics found
00:01:23
that there were 663 watch industry firms
00:01:26
employing
00:01:27
24,8 58 people
00:01:30
the largest company longans employed
00:01:33
just 853 of
00:01:35
that in 1905 longin produced 130,000
00:01:40
pieces in comparison walam was producing
00:01:43
multiples more pieces annually just a
00:01:46
few years
00:01:47
prior Swiss diversity had been a
00:01:49
strength producing many products to
00:01:51
cater to everyone's needs all of them
00:01:53
were exported abroad Switzerland
00:01:56
dominated the pocket watch export Market
00:01:58
with something like 93% % market
00:02:01
share when it came to building up
00:02:03
railroads telegraphs or the military
00:02:06
Japan rapidly adopted Western
00:02:08
Technologies the government's
00:02:09
overarching goal was modernization they
00:02:12
wanted to catch up with the West so back
00:02:16
then clocks were all the rage has to fit
00:02:18
in with part of their overall
00:02:20
modernization movement when westerners
00:02:22
first started importing watches into
00:02:24
Japan during the 1860s the items were
00:02:27
mostly seen as Deluxe Goods for the
00:02:29
social
00:02:30
Elite in 1868 Japan reported that
00:02:34
1,185 wall clocks and just 300 pocket
00:02:38
watches were imported into the
00:02:40
country by 1887 over 700,000 clocks
00:02:44
entered Japan that were installed in
00:02:46
hospitals schools town halls and post
00:02:50
offices during this period of time Japan
00:02:53
sought to wean itself off clock imports
00:02:55
from the United States since Clocks Were
00:02:58
technologically simpler than watches
00:03:00
the Japanese early clock industry
00:03:02
focused on replicating them in 1888
00:03:05
Hayashi shii a Time piece retailer
00:03:08
opened Japan's first modern clock
00:03:10
Factory it was a success and Hayashi
00:03:13
opened five more factories in Osaka
00:03:15
Tokyo and so
00:03:17
on Japan's clock industry rapidly gained
00:03:20
competence in clock manufacturing with
00:03:22
production volume going from
00:03:24
37,46 pieces in 1905 to 1.2 million in
00:03:29
192 2 there were over 20 clock factories
00:03:32
on the eve of World War
00:03:35
I at first domestic demand and Military
00:03:38
demand in particular drove this Market
00:03:40
but Hayashi started exporting its excess
00:03:43
production to cities of the Far East
00:03:45
like Shanghai Singapore Hong Kong and
00:03:48
Bombay by the 1930s Japan was a clock
00:03:51
exporting power with 35% of the total
00:03:55
Market over the same time period people
00:03:58
started wearing pocket watches in 1887
00:04:01
it was estimated that just 0.8% of
00:04:04
Japanese regularly wore watches that
00:04:07
number grew to 4.2% in 1897 and then
00:04:11
finally 10% in
00:04:13
1907 as pocket Watchers got popular
00:04:16
Japanese companies sought to make them
00:04:18
the biggest of which was a Japanese
00:04:20
company called hator Ino founded by
00:04:22
hatori
00:04:24
kintaro hatori learned the watch
00:04:26
industry at the age of 13 in a clock
00:04:28
dealership in Tokyo then in 1877 at the
00:04:31
age of 17 he opened up his own shop
00:04:34
which repaired and resold watches in
00:04:37
1881 he married the daughter of a watch
00:04:39
Trader he purchased a shop from his new
00:04:42
father-in-law and started selling
00:04:43
imported Swiss and American
00:04:46
watches to acquire his product he rode
00:04:48
the railroad to what is now sakuragicho
00:04:51
station in Yokohama to meet with Swiss
00:04:53
trading
00:04:54
houses when the Japanese clock boom
00:04:57
arrived hatori saw the opportunity and
00:04:59
in 1895 opened his own factory making
00:05:02
wall clocks and then high-end
00:05:04
grandfather clocks he gave that factory
00:05:06
the name
00:05:08
seha a mechanical watch uses very small
00:05:11
precision-made parts assembled in a
00:05:13
painstaking process that took a lot of
00:05:15
time and skill a watch's heart and soul
00:05:18
are its movements or movement Parts the
00:05:21
parts that keep the watch ticking
00:05:24
accurately Japanese Watchers couldn't
00:05:26
compete with Swiss and American
00:05:28
companies they weren't as thin accurate
00:05:30
or reliable as their
00:05:32
competitors they also cost more than
00:05:34
their imported competitors the selling
00:05:37
quantities were not high enough for the
00:05:38
Japanese factories to gain economies of
00:05:42
scale these Western Imports had poured
00:05:44
into the country so freely because in
00:05:46
the mid 1800s Japan and the United
00:05:49
States signed an unequal treaty opening
00:05:52
up several treaty ports in the country
00:05:55
but in 1899 that treaty lapsed and Japan
00:05:57
regained sovereignty over their trade
00:05:59
Rel
00:06:00
ations the Japanese government then
00:06:02
immediately embarked on an import
00:06:04
substitution policy raising tariffs to
00:06:06
deter Imports and protect domestic
00:06:09
manufacturing before 1899 silver and
00:06:12
nickel watch Imports had a 5% tariff
00:06:15
pretty low after that year those rates
00:06:18
went up to 25% and then 40% in
00:06:22
1906 the Japanese did similar actions
00:06:25
for bicycles Machine Tools hydroelectric
00:06:28
turbines so machines and
00:06:31
Automobiles protected from Western
00:06:34
Imports Hat's watch making business took
00:06:37
off from 1906 to 1930 his clocks took
00:06:40
48% of the domestic market and his
00:06:43
watches 85% of the
00:06:45
market government protection and high
00:06:48
tariffs were definitely part of the
00:06:49
reason why he did so well but not the
00:06:51
only one Hat's company improved their
00:06:54
manufacturing capacity by focusing on
00:06:57
automating a small number of Select
00:06:59
Swiss inspired
00:07:01
models hot's company released 25 watch
00:07:04
types between 1895 and
00:07:06
1937 just three of those types sold well
00:07:10
the 1909 Empire pocket watch and two
00:07:12
wrist watches the Laurel and the Seiko
00:07:16
to gain expertise in producing these
00:07:18
hatui hired engineering labor from Tokyo
00:07:21
universities to disassemble Swiss
00:07:23
watches and learn how to put them back
00:07:26
together and more importantly he sourced
00:07:29
Raw watch parts from Switzerland which
00:07:31
weren't subject to tariffs from 1915 to
00:07:35
1935 Switzerland provided 69% nice of
00:07:39
Japan's watch
00:07:40
Parts this practice of first importing
00:07:43
disassemble watch movement sets and
00:07:45
putting them together inside the borders
00:07:47
was referred to as shablon named after
00:07:50
the word shablon which means movement
00:07:54
sets from 1895 to 1899 Japan imported
00:07:58
22,5 100 watch movements from the United
00:08:01
States and Switzerland then in 1900 the
00:08:04
first year of the terrorists on finished
00:08:06
watches Japan imported
00:08:09
122,000 movements and then in 1905
00:08:14
250,000 by then Japan was importing far
00:08:17
more movements than finished
00:08:20
watches the Swiss Watch industry became
00:08:23
concerned rightly so the shablin would
00:08:25
be their long-term downfall transfer and
00:08:28
critical watchmaking expertise to other
00:08:30
countries here's an example in 1894 a
00:08:34
Swiss citizen Rudolph Schmidt settled in
00:08:37
Yokohama and opened a Trading Company
00:08:40
his company first started out by
00:08:41
importing and selling complete watches
00:08:43
but changed After Japan raised the
00:08:46
tariffs in 1908 after the second round
00:08:49
of tariff increases he began importing
00:08:51
shablon into Japan there at his Workshop
00:08:55
in Yokohama Schmidt finished his watches
00:08:57
with cases imported from his family 's
00:08:59
watch case Factory in Switzerland then
00:09:02
in 1910 Schmidt shifted the entire
00:09:05
process case making and all to Japan
00:09:08
which infuriated and alarmed members of
00:09:10
the Swiss Watch industry in 1912 he
00:09:13
moved his Yokohama Factory to Tokyo
00:09:16
where his company started to get very
00:09:18
large in 1930 under sketchy and
00:09:21
uncertain circumstances Schmid acquired
00:09:23
a watchmaking workshop called
00:09:26
shosha that Workshop was renamed to the
00:09:29
C Cen watch company a name Schmidt had
00:09:31
owned since
00:09:32
1918 citizen would rise to become the
00:09:35
Japanese industry's second significant
00:09:37
watch maker after hatan Co or
00:09:41
Seiko what happened in Japan was the sum
00:09:44
of all Swiss fears in 1935 hattori's
00:09:47
watch Factory became the single largest
00:09:49
in the world and what's worse hatori and
00:09:52
citizen started expanding abroad one
00:09:55
advert read our watches are Japanese
00:09:58
made the Japanese workers's
00:10:00
extraordinary aptitude for any type of
00:10:03
fine painstaking work as well as his
00:10:05
exceptional output or
00:10:08
welln with watch exports declining
00:10:10
throughout the 1920s the Swiss
00:10:12
reorganized their industry into a
00:10:15
cartel part suppliers signed agreements
00:10:18
called watchmaking conventions making it
00:10:20
so that they can only do business with
00:10:22
each other a holding company was set up
00:10:25
named asag to purchase all the various
00:10:28
movement man
00:10:30
manufacturers in 1934 the government
00:10:33
stepped in eventually controlling all
00:10:35
watchmaking activities and monitoring
00:10:37
all exports of watch parts and Machine
00:10:39
Tools shablin was made
00:10:42
illegal this largely managed to achieve
00:10:44
its goals for the next few decades the
00:10:47
Swiss Watch industry enjoyed High
00:10:49
profits and a consistent 50% share of
00:10:52
the global watch
00:10:54
Market the 1930s also saw a market
00:10:57
transition from pocket watches to R
00:10:59
watches watches also gain new features
00:11:02
like self-winding movement calendars and
00:11:04
waterproof cases all the while becoming
00:11:07
smaller and more
00:11:09
complicated then came World War II most
00:11:12
Watchers companies with the exception of
00:11:14
the Swiss halted their production and
00:11:16
saved their medals for the war effort
00:11:19
many companies were drafted into
00:11:20
producing Precision Tools the Swiss
00:11:23
stayed neutral giving them a leg up in
00:11:25
the global
00:11:27
market America's watch company struggled
00:11:29
in the wake of the war unable to compete
00:11:31
against cheap Swiss watch Imports
00:11:34
despite new tariffs from the United
00:11:35
States government the American watch
00:11:37
industry entered a long-term Decline and
00:11:41
consolidation hatan Co pushed hard to
00:11:43
get through that postwar slump and
00:11:45
compete on an even footing against the
00:11:47
Swiss they copied Swiss Machine Tools
00:11:50
studied Swiss methods during trips to
00:11:52
Europe and worked through loopholes in
00:11:54
the cartel
00:11:55
system by 1966 hatori would eventually
00:11:58
produce mechanical watches that
00:12:00
performed as well as their Swiss
00:12:02
counterparts establishing themselves as
00:12:05
world
00:12:06
leaders but at the same time the company
00:12:08
sought to bring to Market a new type of
00:12:10
watch one that would completely disrupt
00:12:13
the mechanical watch
00:12:15
World the technology principles behind
00:12:18
the courts watch have been around for a
00:12:19
long time in the 1880s Pierre curri
00:12:23
husband to the legendary Marie Cur
00:12:25
discovered that if you applied pressure
00:12:27
or alternating current to a courts
00:12:29
Crystal it
00:12:30
vibrates and it vibrates at a very
00:12:33
consistent number 33,000 times a second
00:12:36
such a property could be leveraged to
00:12:38
make time pieces far more accurate than
00:12:40
any mechanical
00:12:42
clock then in 1927 an engineer at Bell
00:12:46
Labs created a high Precision quartz
00:12:48
clock the size of a whole room Ultra
00:12:51
accurate timekeeping hadn't been his
00:12:53
intention with the device but he did not
00:12:56
that it could serve as one in the years
00:12:58
since a quartz crystal making industry
00:13:01
sprung up to supply radios then in 1960
00:13:05
watch maker Bova one of the big two
00:13:08
American watch makers left standing
00:13:10
rolled out the first commercial
00:13:11
electronic watch they unveiled the
00:13:14
acutron with a big marketing Blitz
00:13:16
across 13 US cities acutron wasn't
00:13:20
quartz powerered but rather used a 36 HZ
00:13:23
tuning fork the watch was 10 times more
00:13:26
accurate than a mechanical watch while
00:13:28
using far fewer discret
00:13:30
Parts Acron Tech was developed by the
00:13:33
Swiss scientist Max hetel who only
00:13:35
turned to the American watch markets
00:13:37
after he couldn't interest anyone in
00:13:39
Switzerland with his
00:13:41
ideas Bova with the acutron turned out
00:13:43
to be one of those cases of first mover
00:13:46
disadvantage they stuck to their tuning
00:13:48
fork technology even after it became
00:13:50
clear that quz was the future they're
00:13:54
eventually acquired by the conglomerate
00:13:55
Lowe's but the acutron nevertheless sh
00:13:59
roed the industry and kicked into motion
00:14:01
a surge of technological development in
00:14:03
electronic watches across the US Japan
00:14:07
and
00:14:08
Switzerland in 1959 hatori now Seiko
00:14:12
formed a new team to commercialize
00:14:13
quartz timekeepers with the transistor's
00:14:17
commercialization small circuits can now
00:14:19
feed power into a quartz crystal measure
00:14:21
its oscillations and translate them into
00:14:24
second
00:14:25
pulses their first goal was to have a
00:14:27
portable quartz chronometer in time for
00:14:29
the Tokyo Olympics in
00:14:32
2021 oh I mean 2020 no it can't be that
00:14:37
1964 there we go somehow this group of
00:14:41
ragtag mechanical engineers managed to
00:14:44
ship this electronic quartz-based
00:14:47
chronometer after that they set out to
00:14:49
miniaturize the technology into a watch
00:14:52
the watch they eventually produced was a
00:14:54
mismash of ill-fitting components
00:14:57
without access to Advanced inte
00:14:59
integrated circuits they created a hand
00:15:01
soldered hybrid circuit made of 76
00:15:03
transistors 29 condensers and 84
00:15:06
resistors the original in-house team at
00:15:09
Seiko had actually failed to master the
00:15:11
seos production process so they
00:15:13
outsourced the work to the American
00:15:15
firmed interel interel completed the
00:15:18
project and signed over their process
00:15:19
knowledge to
00:15:21
Seiko Seiko produced much of their
00:15:23
transistors in house but occasionally
00:15:25
tapped capacity at the country's big
00:15:27
producers Hitachi NEC and Toshiba the
00:15:31
Seiko Astron SQ went on sale in Tokyo on
00:15:35
Christmas Day 1969 for what would be
00:15:38
$31,000 today this elegant limited
00:15:41
edition gold watch had a simple
00:15:43
functional look but the thing heralded a
00:15:47
revolution Seiko chose to market the
00:15:49
Astron with the line someday all watches
00:15:52
will be made this way they were
00:15:54
right the Astron was revolutionary but
00:15:57
its sales numbers the first few years
00:15:59
did not set the world on fire in 1971
00:16:02
hotor announced that they sold just
00:16:04
3,000 Astron digital watches needed
00:16:07
another piece before they really stormed
00:16:09
the
00:16:09
gates out in Pennsylvania a company
00:16:12
called Hamilton Watch was working on
00:16:14
their own quartz watch seizing on a new
00:16:17
technology called light and meting
00:16:19
diodes they ditched the hands and dial
00:16:21
completely and just displayed the time
00:16:23
and date Hamilton called their Pulsar a
00:16:26
wrist computer decades before they Apple
00:16:29
watch became a thing it was first
00:16:31
released as a P1 version in Gold taking
00:16:33
a luxury fashion angle to offset the
00:16:36
high cost of production but it really
00:16:39
took off when James Bond wore a P2
00:16:41
version in the movie Live and Let Die
00:16:44
never watched that one more of a Shan
00:16:46
connory fan
00:16:48
myself anyway by the mid1 1970s LED
00:16:52
quartz watches had become the market
00:16:54
Standard in 1974 World consumers bought
00:16:57
650,000 Led Watch watches and analysts
00:17:00
predicted that number would rise to 10
00:17:02
million in a few years LED watches would
00:17:05
eventually give way to LCD watches do in
00:17:08
part to their better battery life
00:17:10
consumption various integrated circuit
00:17:13
firms and traditional watch companies
00:17:15
rushed into the digital courts watch
00:17:17
category they are excited to find a
00:17:19
killer app for which they can sell their
00:17:21
chips for instance Texas Instruments
00:17:24
sold the digital solid state Led Watch
00:17:27
for between $95 And1
00:17:29
$175 in the same retail outlets who sold
00:17:32
their calculator
00:17:34
products even Intel had their fingers in
00:17:36
The Watch pie for a little bit in 1972
00:17:39
the company acquired digital watchmaker
00:17:41
microma and made
00:17:43
SmartWatches Casio was another one of
00:17:45
those companies having started as a
00:17:47
calculator company they went
00:17:48
head-to-head with the US firm timx at
00:17:51
the low end offering their low price
00:17:53
models in drug stores across the
00:17:55
country Japanese watch exports into the
00:17:58
United States States a critical Swiss
00:18:00
market exploded export value grew nearly
00:18:03
10 times over reaching 26 million USD in
00:18:07
1975 watches were nearly 20% of total
00:18:11
Japanese
00:18:12
exports Swiss exports stagnated and
00:18:15
their market share plummeted from 83% at
00:18:17
the start of the 1970s to just 20% in
00:18:21
1980 by 1985 Japanese watch exports into
00:18:25
the United States total $373 million
00:18:29
Seiko Citizen and Casio watches had
00:18:31
effectively pushed the Swiss out of
00:18:33
their most valuable
00:18:36
Market it is important to note that
00:18:38
Japanese mechanical watches were as good
00:18:40
as Swiss watches before the Astron came
00:18:43
along hattori's acquisition of Swiss
00:18:46
Technologies and expertise is a
00:18:48
reflection that export restrictions
00:18:50
don't always work as
00:18:52
planned but the Swiss Watch industry
00:18:55
really fumbled the industry shift to
00:18:56
courts despite long being a Ware of the
00:18:59
technology they had even demoed their
00:19:01
own prototypes in
00:19:03
1967 2 years before the
00:19:06
Astron but the Swiss took a great deal
00:19:08
of pride in their mechanical Heritage
00:19:10
and their sprawling industry structure
00:19:12
of many small firms worked against them
00:19:15
no individual Swiss company had the
00:19:17
resources initiative or broad expertise
00:19:21
to build such a thing on their own a
00:19:24
mechanical watch and a consistently
00:19:26
accurate one is hard to make you need a
00:19:28
trained Artisans and painstaking effort
00:19:31
a digital watch made with modern
00:19:32
semiconductor production methods
00:19:34
overwhelms all that human training with
00:19:37
Titanic
00:19:38
scale courtz watches ended the Swiss
00:19:40
grip on the global watch industry as
00:19:43
late as 1974 they had 40% of the global
00:19:46
market 10 years later that share shrank
00:19:49
to just 10% by 1983 over half of the
00:19:53
country's watchmakers had gone
00:19:55
bankrupt due to necessity the Swiss had
00:19:58
also shifted to courts Technologies and
00:20:00
for a brief period of time it seemed
00:20:02
like mechanical watch production
00:20:03
techniques would be lost to the sands of
00:20:06
time but the Swiss mechanical watch
00:20:08
industry has made a bit of a comeback
00:20:10
since then having recognized that their
00:20:12
products have value Beyond just
00:20:14
accurately keeping the time
00:20:16
restructuring into the Swatch group The
00:20:19
Swiss created luxury watch brands and
00:20:21
have since thrived in their Niche the
00:20:24
Japanese watch industry on the other
00:20:26
hand peaked in the 1980s challenged by
00:20:29
industrial competitors in Hong Kong and
00:20:31
then China the industry stagnated and
00:20:33
relocated their manufacturing abroad
00:20:36
they have since struggled to return to
00:20:38
the peaks of their Glory years but that
00:20:41
is a story for another time all right
00:20:43
everyone that's it for tonight thanks
00:20:44
for watching subscribe to the Channel
00:20:46
Sign up for the newsletter and I'll see
00:20:48
you guys next time