00:00:04
i'm tom savage and i've director of
00:00:07
museum affairs of Winterthur but this
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weekend I'm wearing my hat as a very
00:00:12
very proud member of the Board of
00:00:14
Governors of the decorative arts trust a
00:00:16
post I've held for going on over 20
00:00:19
years now I'm sure I'm getting close to
00:00:20
my cell by a date which is why Matt
00:00:22
asked me to be your emcee for much of
00:00:26
this and that is a post I hold during
00:00:29
the New Orleans antiques forum and I
00:00:33
hope you'll return to this room and this
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wonderful place in August to support the
00:00:38
historic New Orleans collection our
00:00:40
wonderful hosts today I thought I would
00:00:43
tell an anecdote
00:00:44
before I introduce Priscilla Lawrence
00:00:47
the director of the collection many many
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years ago when a graduate student at the
00:00:52
Cooperstown graduate program in New York
00:00:55
a place where I learned to miss my car
00:00:57
from October to April because it was
00:00:59
covered in snow and I learned a
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cross-country ski and so when it was
00:01:04
announced that we had a chance to send
00:01:06
graduate students to the Natchez
00:01:08
pilgrimage Garden Club's
00:01:10
antiques forum I raised my hand high and
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with two female classmates we decided to
00:01:18
take in New Orleans beforehand and I was
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put in charge of the arrangements being
00:01:23
the sort of tour leader that I am by
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nature and I decided we would visit New
00:01:29
Orleans and I asked my then friend or my
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late friend Dodie Plateau a former
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curator here who had been an adding them
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classmate where should two attractive
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young women and an attractive young man
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stay in New Orleans that didn't cost a
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fortune but had historic ambiance and
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she said oh that's easy the Lamont house
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hotel so I rang them up and said I will
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require two rooms please a room to be
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shared by two young ladies and a room
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for a single gentleman and this sultry
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Blanche DuBois voice came back and said
00:02:08
babe that all I had left is the Scarlet
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O'Hara suite I said I'll take it
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that began a love affair with New
00:02:18
Orleans and some extraordinary
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photographs that are floating around
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somewhere of the three of us fully
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clothed in a prudent maillard bed so
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this is a place that's grown on me and
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in those 10 years of serving as the
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emcee for the antiques forum New Orleans
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has only begun to reveal itself and I
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laugh when people say will you go to
00:02:42
Bourbon Street I said no that that's for
00:02:45
tourists from from elsewhere that's um
00:02:47
that's a starter collection and you have
00:02:49
a chance during this forum to a see the
00:02:52
real New Orleans and some very
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extraordinary visits Priscilla Lawrence
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the executive director here is among the
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most hospitable people I know and this
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organization I don't know how she has a
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time to welcome us because if you look
00:03:08
at their magazine it is one of the most
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active cultural institutions and museums
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in the country while they devote a great
00:03:18
deal of time to decorative arts in
00:03:20
history there is a conference virtually
00:03:22
every day going on here examining topics
00:03:25
as varied as jazz and twentieth-century
00:03:28
authors who visited New Orleans it is an
00:03:30
organization for whom I have the most
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enormous respect and it's of course been
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under her careful guidance for two
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decades please enjoy a welcome to the
00:03:41
decorative arts trust from the executive
00:03:43
director of the historic New Orleans
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collection
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Priscilla Lawrence
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[Music]
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[Applause]
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Thank You Tom that was really sweet
00:03:58
thank you so I don't have to tell you
00:04:01
who I am but I would like to tell you on
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behalf of our board and staff that we
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are delighted to have you here we are
00:04:12
thrilled welcome and I hope you feel
00:04:15
welcome throughout your your visit
00:04:18
thank you Matt Thurlow and all of you at
00:04:22
the decorative arts trust for your
00:04:25
assistance with our antiques forum by
00:04:29
sponsoring the young scholars talk every
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year we appreciate that so much and feel
00:04:36
that you're part of this institution we
00:04:42
are a multi-purpose sort of organization
00:04:48
and I would like to tell you a little
00:04:52
bit about us you are going to see a lot
00:04:57
of museums here in New Orleans and
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you're going to enjoy every one of them
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the historic New Orleans collection is
00:05:03
an institution that you may not realize
00:05:05
on the surface how extensive it is we
00:05:11
were privately founded but of course for
00:05:14
the benefit of the public you've seen in
00:05:18
your packet materials a number the
00:05:20
description of a number of buildings
00:05:22
that we occupy and right now we have a
00:05:28
whole complex of buildings but basically
00:05:31
in two campuses for lack of a better
00:05:34
term one on Royal Street and one here on
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Chartres Street a third campus is in the
00:05:43
works on Royal Street and it's going to
00:05:45
provide nearly 38,000 square feet of
00:05:49
additional public space including 12,000
00:05:53
square feet of gallery space for
00:05:56
changing exhibitions the
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expansion includes the renovation and
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repurposing of an 1816 multifunctional
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structure which faces the street it was
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a home and shops and at the rear of the
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historic courtyard is an all-new
00:06:18
construction a newly constructed
00:06:22
building modern state-of-the-art
00:06:26
exhibition galleries and it's going to
00:06:28
give us an additional 12,000 square feet
00:06:31
of changing exhibition galleries
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they'll be semi-permanent galleries in
00:06:35
the in the front building so we're
00:06:38
entering a new era in our existence and
00:06:42
we had hoped it would be finished by the
00:06:45
time you came it's not in the perfect
00:06:49
world it would have been but it will be
00:06:53
soon and it will be great so we very
00:06:56
much want you to come back after well
00:07:03
our buildings and ever-growing
00:07:05
collections are the basis of our mission
00:07:07
to bring the love of culture and history
00:07:10
and the need for historic preservation
00:07:13
to the public through our exhibition
00:07:17
programs are open and active for search
00:07:19
services our significant publishing
00:07:23
program and the maintenance of these
00:07:25
buildings we have a staff of right at a
00:07:30
hundred and twenty people and through
00:07:33
all of the forms of outreach that we
00:07:38
that we do we feel we reach at least
00:07:44
300,000 people a year probably more so
00:07:49
thank you for your support of what we do
00:07:53
come back often continue to be part of
00:07:57
what we do and thank you again
00:08:13
thank you for Silla and thank you to the
00:08:15
extraordinary staff of the historic New
00:08:18
Orleans collection for your hospitality
00:08:20
well our journey begins this morning
00:08:22
with an architectural survey of New
00:08:24
Orleans architecture and who better to
00:08:26
lead us on that than our next speaker
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amasau architecture historian at the
00:08:31
Tulane School of Architecture and as a
00:08:34
New Orleans architectural historian who
00:08:36
writes teaches and consults in the areas
00:08:39
of architecture antiques and historic
00:08:41
preservation from 2001 to 2012 she
00:08:44
taught in the master's in preservation
00:08:46
Studies program at Tulane's School of
00:08:49
Architecture and was assistant director
00:08:51
of the program still a faculty member
00:08:54
she lectures and assist students in
00:08:56
thesis work she has an extensive
00:08:59
background in preservation and museum
00:09:01
work she's taught at Colonial
00:09:02
Williamsburg has served on accreditation
00:09:05
committees for the American alliance of
00:09:06
museums she's the author or editor of
00:09:09
several publications and is completing
00:09:11
two books on local architecture an
00:09:14
ardent advocate and volunteer for the
00:09:16
New Orleans preservation community and
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has served on the board as a board
00:09:22
officer for the Friends of the Camille
00:09:23
DOE the New Orleans tourism marketing
00:09:26
Corporation and save our cemeteries and
00:09:29
has been president of the Beauregard
00:09:31
Keyes historic house and view care a
00:09:33
property owners residents and associates
00:09:36
and the French Quarter festivals Inc
00:09:38
she also serves on the collections and
00:09:41
the building committees of the Louisiana
00:09:43
State Museum the Orleans Parish
00:09:46
Landmarks Commission and the classical
00:09:49
Institute of the South about which we'll
00:09:51
be hearing more she's been honored with
00:09:53
awards from the Louisiana landmark
00:09:55
Society friends in the Cavill de Vieux
00:09:58
Carre a property owners residents and
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associates and Louisiana Association of
00:10:03
museums New Orleans magazine and the
00:10:06
American Council of career women and
00:10:08
Vieux Carre Commission I think she also
00:10:11
gets an extra star in her crown not only
00:10:14
is she lecturing for us today
00:10:16
but she's opening her house for us and
00:10:18
says she has to get her
00:10:20
and vacuum please join me in welcoming
00:10:24
ms aw who will show us glimpses of the
00:10:27
past 300 years of New Orleans
00:10:29
architecture
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[Applause]
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good morning everyone I'm so honored to
00:10:41
be here and I do hope that I will be
00:10:44
able to offer a framework an
00:10:46
architectural framework that will help
00:10:49
you fit together some of the other
00:10:51
pieces that you're going to see all
00:10:52
weekend and I know you're going to see
00:10:54
some wonderful things oh good it works
00:10:59
I'm not a real powerpoint expert but
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thanks to the people at the collection
00:11:03
we I think have it together I just want
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to say that you are so fortunate and we
00:11:12
are so fortunate to be here in New
00:11:14
Orleans because nowhere in America is
00:11:17
there a finer collection of historic
00:11:19
buildings many of which you'll be seeing
00:11:21
in spite of the loss of thousands of
00:11:24
buildings to natural disaster
00:11:26
deterioration urban renewal and just
00:11:29
plain old-fashioned 'us we still have
00:11:32
thousands of buildings left in fact
00:11:35
whole neighborhoods have been preserved
00:11:37
and as you go about the city I think you
00:11:41
will enjoy seeing examples of so many
00:11:44
types of styles that will be familiar to
00:11:46
you but all of them are uniquely New
00:11:49
Orleans you will also see many houses
00:11:52
and by some accounts we have the finest
00:11:54
collection of historic houses in America
00:11:57
and they are of infinite variety you
00:12:00
hardly ever see two alike but all of our
00:12:04
old fine structures are united by
00:12:07
necessary adaptations to our climate the
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high ceilings the large doors and
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windows located to maximize breezes
00:12:16
roofs designed to shed water and of
00:12:19
course balconies verandas and porches
00:12:21
everywhere on everything
00:12:24
influenced by numerous cultures our
00:12:27
collection of architecture is a charming
00:12:30
kaleidoscope of individual taught styles
00:12:34
tastes so I hope that you will very much
00:12:37
enjoy seeing all we have to offer in New
00:12:40
Orleans so to begin at the beginning
00:12:42
we must journey back to the founding of
00:12:44
the city while only one building remains
00:12:47
from this period the legacy of the early
00:12:50
French engineers is quite profound
00:12:52
this is the earliest view of the city of
00:12:55
New Orleans from 1726
00:12:58
and you can see here the little
00:13:00
buildings arrayed against a background
00:13:02
of swamp and forest it was out of this
00:13:06
wilderness that the French military
00:13:08
engineers carved our settlement and took
00:13:12
control of the Mississippi River Valley
00:13:14
they overcame floods hurricanes diseases
00:13:17
shortages and perilous conditions to
00:13:21
create the city in which we live it was
00:13:23
a difficult posting by 17 26 3 of these
00:13:27
military engineers had already died
00:13:30
they built levees constructed
00:13:32
fortifications designed buildings drain
00:13:35
swamps and established brick yards in
00:13:37
other words they are responsible for so
00:13:40
much but unfortunately they are largely
00:13:42
forgotten oh dear I had needed to go
00:13:46
backwards here oh I accidentally hit
00:13:50
something I do apologize no I've got it
00:13:53
I got it my hand was just in the wrong
00:13:56
place I am so sorry
00:13:59
although founded in 1718 the real
00:14:02
settlement of the city did not begin
00:14:04
until engineer adrian de poche
00:14:06
arrived in 1721 to lay out the city on
00:14:10
the ground along with engineer and chief
00:14:12
Leblon de Latour he devised a grid plan
00:14:16
that drew on 17th century military
00:14:19
planning concepts on early 16th century
00:14:23
Spanish precepts for laying out Spanish
00:14:25
cities and Renaissance ideals of
00:14:28
regularity and order the plussed arms in
00:14:32
the center now Jackson Square flanked by
00:14:35
governmental and religious buildings was
00:14:37
a rather ambitious composition forming
00:14:39
the town center de poche a divided the
00:14:43
city squares into 12 Lots each and many
00:14:46
early French Quarter buildings followed
00:14:50
these lot lines and some of them are
00:14:52
still followed to this day 300 years
00:14:54
later when distributing land to the
00:14:57
settlers he placed their house as close
00:14:59
to the streets so that to quote each and
00:15:02
every one may still have some land to
00:15:05
the rear to make a garden which here is
00:15:08
half of life now a note on directions
00:15:11
while we have this slide up north south
00:15:14
east and west don't mean a lot in New
00:15:16
Orleans tomorrow morning you can go out
00:15:19
on the riverfront right a few blocks
00:15:20
away and watch the Sun Rise on the West
00:15:23
Bank so that makes things pretty
00:15:26
confusing we direct ourselves to the
00:15:30
river and here is the flow of the
00:15:32
Mississippi River from left to right
00:15:34
across the slide the Mississippi is a
00:15:38
constant for us and so we say that
00:15:41
things are up River down river to this
00:15:45
direction Riverside or lakeside and you
00:15:50
may hear these directions around town
00:15:52
and they make a lot of sense to us and
00:15:54
they also are verbal reminder that New
00:15:58
Orleans is forever tied to the river
00:16:00
it's our most important geographic point
00:16:05
the military engineers drew up plans for
00:16:09
the buildings and supervised
00:16:11
construction but they had a challenging
00:16:13
situation at this site because there was
00:16:15
no stone with which they were used to
00:16:17
building so they immediately established
00:16:20
brick yards for masonry construction and
00:16:22
they exploited the surrounding forests
00:16:26
for Cypress which was an excellent wood
00:16:29
for building
00:16:30
which is still much coveted and envied
00:16:34
the land was cleared and the felled
00:16:38
trees were hewn into heavy timber frames
00:16:41
and here you see those those wooden
00:16:46
elements and this framing system was
00:16:49
called : bosch locally it was filled in
00:16:52
with bricks and that gave us brick
00:16:56
between post construction some of the
00:16:58
similar buildings used a mixture of mud
00:17:01
moss and deer hair which was called
00:17:03
boozy ash and so these were vulnerable
00:17:07
to the elements and most of these
00:17:09
buildings were covered with planking or
00:17:11
stucco on the outside notice there are
00:17:14
two different examples of the French
00:17:17
roof truss systems that were used at
00:17:21
this time and they shed water easily and
00:17:24
were also fairly easy to construct these
00:17:28
coal Amash frames have another advantage
00:17:32
and that is that they are lightweight
00:17:35
compared to masonry construction so
00:17:37
often you have a building with a masonry
00:17:41
ground floor and coal Amash floor above
00:17:44
because it was just so lighter and so
00:17:47
much lighter and our foundations in the
00:17:50
swampy water were a bit tricky these
00:17:56
engineers skillfully adapted the
00:17:58
european building traditions that they
00:18:00
knew to the environment here in new
00:18:02
orleans with damp rot and rising water
00:18:05
totally prevalent their ideas were so
00:18:08
influential that local design almost to
00:18:12
the present day was profoundly
00:18:14
influenced by them with a fairly small
00:18:17
architectural vocabulary the engineers
00:18:20
designed the parish church the convent
00:18:23
administrative buildings barracks
00:18:24
warehouses of guard house a jail a horse
00:18:28
and wind-powered mill houses kitchens a
00:18:30
hospital
00:18:31
and other buildings although simple and
00:18:34
design the structures echoed the French
00:18:37
architecture during the period of louis
00:18:40
xiv i show you here a picture of the
00:18:44
convent building the design drawn by
00:18:47
francois ignosi bruton why is it moving
00:18:51
forward I'm not touching anything I am
00:18:56
sorry I do apologize bruton's drawing
00:19:03
from 1745 shows the convent building
00:19:07
that the Ursuline nuns lived in as they
00:19:11
carried about their duties of taking
00:19:13
care of the orphans and the ill in the
00:19:15
city the building replaced an earlier
00:19:18
one that Terrier ated rapidly and indeed
00:19:22
nearly collapsed because the coulomb
00:19:25
Bosch frame and the soft brick fill were
00:19:27
exposed to the elements
00:19:29
so Bruton built this building and the
00:19:33
nuns resided here until 1824 surrounded
00:19:37
by a series of auxiliary buildings and
00:19:39
also beautiful orchards and gardens the
00:19:44
convent still exists today it is the
00:19:48
property of the Archdiocese of New
00:19:50
Orleans and the building is open to the
00:19:53
public for as a museum and also some
00:19:56
administrative buildings if you go there
00:19:58
which I hope you have time to do
00:20:00
please take particular note of the
00:20:02
stairway it was saved from the 1734
00:20:06
convent and it's built of solid blocks
00:20:08
of Cypress it's really a wonderful thing
00:20:10
to see so even though we only have one
00:20:15
French colonial building the engineers
00:20:17
gave us many types and styles which we
00:20:20
still use today their legacy was the
00:20:23
development of the raised gallery house
00:20:26
which gave birth to an entire genre of
00:20:29
city and country buildings designed in
00:20:32
various styles from including the
00:20:35
stately Greek Revival but these are
00:20:38
early buildings in the
00:20:39
French style established the tight a
00:20:43
visitor described it better than I can
00:20:45
the galleries are usually eight or nine
00:20:48
feet wide these wide galleries have
00:20:51
several advantages first they prevent
00:20:53
the sun's rays from striking the walls
00:20:55
of the house and thus to keep them cool
00:20:58
also they form a convenient and pleasant
00:21:00
spot on which to promenade during the
00:21:02
day one can eat or entertain here and
00:21:05
very often during the hot summer nights
00:21:07
one sleeps here this idea is confirmed
00:21:11
by the 1792 inventory a Destrehan
00:21:15
plantation where the galleries contained
00:21:17
six large heavy cotton or canvas
00:21:20
curtains Cypress beds threads bedsteads
00:21:24
furnished with mattresses feather beds
00:21:26
bolsters sheets quilts and mosquito nets
00:21:29
I just don't know why it's advancing
00:21:36
without me this did not happen before
00:21:41
you all this is a slide of madam John's
00:21:45
legacy the little drawing was by Boyd
00:21:48
Cruz who was the first director of the
00:21:51
historic neurons collection here and he
00:21:54
is depicting madam John's legacy this
00:21:57
building was built immediately after the
00:21:59
fire of 1788 well into the French of the
00:22:03
Spanish colonial period but it follows
00:22:05
the designs for French colonial houses
00:22:08
at the time and notice that it's raised
00:22:11
above the ground principally because of
00:22:14
danger of flood the high water table
00:22:17
precluded basements so this lower ground
00:22:20
floor could be tall enough to be used
00:22:23
for storage or auxilary living space and
00:22:26
dining rooms were sometimes placed on
00:22:29
the ground floor which we would think of
00:22:30
as damp and dark which was really cool
00:22:33
and dark in the summertime one person
00:22:36
said in 1803 another reason for raising
00:22:40
the houses the more houses are elevated
00:22:43
the more they are cooled by the way
00:22:44
and there is special advantage is that
00:22:47
they are much less bothered by
00:22:48
mosquitoes which are continually blown
00:22:51
away by the wind not sure that that was
00:22:53
true the next generation of this sort of
00:22:58
house is what we would call the
00:23:00
plantation house and you will see them
00:23:02
and I'm sure some of you have seen them
00:23:05
in the countryside as the styles of the
00:23:07
19th century moved on the simple wooden
00:23:11
columns that and posts that supported
00:23:15
the French colonial galleries were
00:23:17
replaced by large brick columns
00:23:21
sometimes with sophisticated classical
00:23:25
design and often encircling the entire
00:23:28
building to create those those galleries
00:23:30
that were so useful not everyone lived
00:23:35
in these such fiant in these fine
00:23:37
conditions most people dwelt in simple
00:23:40
wooden frame buildings with cypress
00:23:42
shake roofs none remain today the
00:23:45
Spanish who took possession of the city
00:23:48
in 1768 seven years after the transfer
00:23:51
treaty apparently continued to build in
00:23:54
this fashion and continue to use the old
00:23:57
buildings that had been built by their
00:23:59
French predecessors unfortunately we
00:24:02
know little about the buildings of this
00:24:04
late Spanish colonial period because
00:24:06
there was a terrible fire in 1788 and
00:24:09
another in 1794 on Good Friday March
00:24:15
21st
00:24:16
1788 a fire began in the home of the
00:24:19
royal treasurer on Chartres Street only
00:24:22
a half a block from the main square and
00:24:24
just a couple of blocks from where we
00:24:26
are right now apparently in honor of the
00:24:30
occasion candles were burning on a
00:24:33
makeshift altar the wind caught them and
00:24:36
they caught some Cobra caught on fire by
00:24:38
some candles nearby one description
00:24:42
reads one can imagine what a fire this
00:24:45
must have been in a city of
00:24:46
highly combustible wooden houses in the
00:24:49
place where a few hours before were
00:24:51
populous neighborhoods streets filled
00:24:53
with carriages and pedestrians stores
00:24:55
filled with goods and bustling with
00:24:57
trade now was only to be seen a sterile
00:25:00
plain whitened with ashes the citizen
00:25:03
could not even recognize the house from
00:25:06
which he had just escaped and he
00:25:08
wandered bewildered through his former
00:25:10
neighborhood carrying the pitiful
00:25:12
remnant of his property having not even
00:25:14
a place to rest his head what a sad
00:25:17
account three quarters of the city had
00:25:20
been destroyed the populace rushed to
00:25:23
the levee where there was safety and the
00:25:26
governor opened the Royal warehouses and
00:25:28
he sent to the planters and asked them
00:25:30
to send their provisions because the
00:25:32
population was in danger of starvation
00:25:35
so about 850 buildings were lost
00:25:39
including all of the buildings around
00:25:42
Jackson Square or at the back of Jackson
00:25:45
Square the most important buildings in
00:25:47
the city the Cabildo the presbytery the
00:25:50
parish church the guard house the prison
00:25:53
all of them are destroyed
00:25:57
in the rebuilding we and we see this
00:26:02
here in a Spanish colonial era depiction
00:26:05
in the rebuilding the area the back of
00:26:09
the square was most important to the
00:26:11
population and so they appealed to Don
00:26:14
Andres Alma Nestor ero Haas who was
00:26:18
paying for the new church and the
00:26:20
presbytery which is the building on your
00:26:23
right the Cabildo being the building on
00:26:26
your left upriver of the church and he
00:26:29
agreed to finance for the city of New
00:26:31
Orleans the building of the Cabildo his
00:26:34
intention was to quote to make the front
00:26:37
of the plaza uniform which in fact would
00:26:40
beautify it as the two buildings were
00:26:43
formed to equal wings to the temple
00:26:46
meaning st. Louis Parish Church so he
00:26:49
had a
00:26:50
early renaissance symmetrical idea here
00:26:53
the French engineers had the same idea
00:26:55
but they never lived or never
00:26:58
while they never lived to see it brought
00:27:00
to fruition notice the Cabildo and the
00:27:04
presbytery both have a different kind of
00:27:07
roof than they do today a pediment over
00:27:10
a temple front and then this was a
00:27:13
terrace roof which I will describe in a
00:27:16
minute surrounded by a balustrade and
00:27:19
ornamented with urns and other
00:27:22
decorative classical features so this is
00:27:26
how the buildings looked for the first
00:27:28
half of the 19th century then the church
00:27:30
was replaced and mansard roofs were
00:27:35
added to the Cabildo and the presbytery
00:27:37
this shows the Cabildo in the 1830s both
00:27:41
of those buildings along with the church
00:27:43
were designed by architect and city
00:27:45
engineer Gilberto Gil Mart who who
00:27:50
worked in a neoclassical style that was
00:27:53
quite similar to buildings then beyond
00:27:55
being erected in Havana and at that
00:27:58
point in history New Orleans
00:28:00
answered to Havana and so it is natural
00:28:03
that we should see some similarity of
00:28:05
building style I want to particularly
00:28:09
point out the ironwork on the Cabildo
00:28:11
this is on the st. Peter Street side
00:28:13
this is wrought iron which as you know
00:28:16
was forged with a hammer on an anvil
00:28:19
with heat and we had a great deal of
00:28:22
this beautifully crafted either locally
00:28:25
or imported and it's just this wonderful
00:28:28
simple curvilinear and later slightly
00:28:31
geometric kind of iron work
00:28:34
unfortunately most of it has disappeared
00:28:36
and you'll have to look hard to find
00:28:37
some examples but the Cabildo and press
00:28:40
Petare are outstanding in this regard
00:28:42
almost all the iron work that you will
00:28:45
see in the city is cast
00:28:47
which was poured into a mold and so you
00:28:50
can get all those decorative grapevines
00:28:52
and roses and and patterns that the mid
00:28:55
19th century really admired and enjoyed
00:29:01
during the Spanish colonial period and
00:29:04
especially after the fires with so many
00:29:07
people needing housing the Creole
00:29:09
cottage became one of the most popular
00:29:11
house types not on not only in the
00:29:14
French Quarter but in the nearby suburbs
00:29:16
especially Treme and Marigny the Creole
00:29:23
cottage is composed of just four rooms
00:29:26
opening one to another and in the back
00:29:29
you would have elosha flanked by cabin
00:29:32
ace known to us as the cabin a loggia
00:29:35
and this was in no hallways they were
00:29:38
easy to construct and fairly compact and
00:29:41
you could have them of solid masonry
00:29:43
brick between posts or entirely frame so
00:29:46
it was a quite versatile type that could
00:29:48
be fairly a nice house for a prosperous
00:29:52
merchant or it could be a very simple
00:29:54
house for a family of workers in the
00:29:58
courtyards to the rear were all the
00:30:00
service buildings that you needed
00:30:02
kitchens and laundries privies quarters
00:30:05
for the servants extra living space this
00:30:10
little slide of three Creole cottages on
00:30:12
st. Philip's Street shows a progression
00:30:15
the one in the middle from 1805 is
00:30:18
typical of the very early Creole
00:30:20
cottages quite simple and low to the
00:30:21
ground and it is flanked by two slightly
00:30:25
later examples the one with the double
00:30:27
dormers is detailed in the Greek Revival
00:30:29
style so the creole cottage which was
00:30:33
popular from the 1790s went into the
00:30:36
1840s just followed the fashions along
00:30:40
benjamin Latrobe when he visited said
00:30:42
these one-story houses are very simple
00:30:45
in their plan the two front rooms opened
00:30:47
onto the street with French glass doors
00:30:49
those on one side are the
00:30:51
and drawing-rooms on the other the
00:30:54
bedchambers the front rooms when
00:30:56
inhabited by Americans are the family
00:30:58
rooms and the back rooms the bed
00:31:00
chambers so we see here even at this
00:31:03
early period the contrast between how a
00:31:06
Creole family meaning a French Spanish
00:31:09
descent or an American family of Anglo
00:31:12
descent how they might live differently
00:31:14
in their homes now it's just a a moment
00:31:19
about the terrace roof which you will
00:31:20
not see but was such an interesting
00:31:22
thing Building Regulations instituted by
00:31:25
the Cabildo after the two fires 1788
00:31:28
followed six years later by another
00:31:30
major fire were very strict about the
00:31:34
wooden construction but they also said
00:31:37
that all the buildings in the central
00:31:39
part of the city had to have fireproof
00:31:42
roof construction and so a new idea came
00:31:45
up from the Spanish colonial world and
00:31:48
this was the terrace roof and it there
00:31:52
nearly flat here is the troubs drawing
00:31:54
of one and improbably
00:31:57
they are built up of layers of beams
00:31:59
planking plaster tar and terracotta
00:32:04
tiles surfaced with lime and oyster
00:32:07
shells a traveler said the tops of the
00:32:10
houses are as their back yards the women
00:32:13
wash iron sit to work and the men walk
00:32:16
on them and go from the top of one house
00:32:18
to the top of another and visit their
00:32:21
neighbors without ever having anything
00:32:22
to do with the streets below many have
00:32:25
shrubs and flowers growing on them the
00:32:28
traveler went on to say that they never
00:32:30
lived well this was just not true they
00:32:32
least likes is not only the roofing
00:32:35
material but the water flowed down the
00:32:37
walls so it's no surprise that they were
00:32:41
rather shortly replaced by slate roofs
00:32:44
particularly that we're starting to come
00:32:46
in or barrel tile roofs and so we only
00:32:49
have one example left I would be remiss
00:32:52
if I didn't at least mention the
00:32:55
cemeteries they're so different from
00:32:57
and have been the objects of curiosity
00:33:00
and even horror for visitors for almost
00:33:05
two centuries they are the product of a
00:33:07
high water table and the
00:33:09
well-established Spanish colonial
00:33:11
preference for entombment over burial
00:33:14
below ground and those two factors
00:33:17
established the design the earliest st.
00:33:21
Louis number one was authorized by the
00:33:23
Cabildo in 1789 and moved to its present
00:33:27
location in 1796 it replaced an
00:33:31
overcrowded below ground French burial
00:33:35
ground that was located here in the
00:33:37
French Quarter this 1834 watercolor by
00:33:40
Latrobe son John HB Latrobe shows the
00:33:43
below ground burial and to the low tombs
00:33:47
which you see here as well as the
00:33:51
plethora of tombs in all sorts of styles
00:33:54
and and designs all the cemeteries at
00:34:00
this time in New Orleans were Catholic
00:34:02
later on of course we have Protestant
00:34:04
and Jewish burials but spots as well but
00:34:07
please go see the cemeteries they're
00:34:09
most interesting the Louisiana Purchase
00:34:14
took place of course in 1803 and after
00:34:16
that point settlers from other parts of
00:34:19
the United States began to pour into the
00:34:21
city
00:34:22
the well established building traditions
00:34:25
however prevailed and it was a it was
00:34:27
quite a while before the Anglo tastes
00:34:30
took hold in New Orleans this depiction
00:34:35
of the city at that time is taken from
00:34:38
the Bernard Marigny plantation Bernard
00:34:41
de Marigny plantation just below the
00:34:43
French Quarter and it became one of the
00:34:46
newest suburbs with the need for housing
00:34:50
for the new settlers coming in
00:34:53
the East Coast and also the refugees
00:34:56
from sin domain who had begun arriving
00:34:59
about ten years before there was a great
00:35:02
need for housing and so they opened up
00:35:04
new suburbs down river and up river and
00:35:07
the Marigny plantation was one of the
00:35:09
first it was very attractive along with
00:35:12
the Treme subdivision and the French
00:35:14
Quarter it was very attractive to the
00:35:17
free people of color many of whom were
00:35:19
quite skilled and well educated and they
00:35:23
built a number of French Quarter houses
00:35:26
and lived here in addition to the Creole
00:35:33
cottage in the early American period
00:35:36
Creole town houses were built by
00:35:39
merchants and prosperous families they
00:35:41
drew on the Spanish colonial idea of a
00:35:44
two-story dwelling with auxilary
00:35:46
buildings surrounding an internal
00:35:48
courtyard these buildings often housed
00:35:50
shops on the ground floor with the
00:35:53
family quarters above now the Creole
00:35:55
town house literally turned its back on
00:35:58
the street you entered via a small alley
00:36:02
to the side or in the middle and then
00:36:04
when you reach the courtyard to the rear
00:36:06
there was a beautiful sometimes quite
00:36:08
grand stairway leading up to the living
00:36:11
quarters above the type was popular from
00:36:14
about 1800 well into the 1830s when this
00:36:18
large kind of fancy example was built
00:36:21
one description says the house facing
00:36:24
the houses facing the levy are of two
00:36:27
stories with the gallery in the front
00:36:30
and of course they had balconies as well
00:36:32
as no cellar can be dug in this flat
00:36:35
country the first story is appropriated
00:36:38
as a warehouse a carriage house office
00:36:40
etc after the Spanish fashion the family
00:36:43
resides on the second
00:36:45
Flor and the back buildings for kitchens
00:36:47
and Negroes in the more commercial
00:36:51
districts we also had houses that have
00:36:55
the living quarters above the shop below
00:36:58
and an entre saw or sort of half story
00:37:02
fitted in between this is an old
00:37:04
European idea that was used for storage
00:37:06
of goods or maybe for offices and clerks
00:37:09
or even sometimes for sleeping
00:37:11
accommodations so look for these
00:37:14
particularly on Royal Street in various
00:37:16
styles by 1826 when the Beauregard Kai's
00:37:20
house was being built the new American
00:37:22
ideas were really coming to the fore the
00:37:25
raised house might now have a portico
00:37:29
supported by classical columns double
00:37:32
hung and triple hung windows began to
00:37:35
replace the French doors and windows of
00:37:38
the earlier period and we also see the
00:37:42
beginning of the move to red brick
00:37:46
construction these were northern brick
00:37:48
that were highly fashionable and highly
00:37:51
valuable and we see here the hermann
00:37:54
Grima house which imitates the look of
00:37:57
these wonderful northern brick with
00:37:59
paint but it was these houses were
00:38:03
detailed also with late Georgian or
00:38:05
federal if you prefer details and here
00:38:11
we see the double hung windows but you
00:38:13
see still the large openings the
00:38:15
shutters which were needed for the
00:38:17
inclement weather and other features
00:38:19
which do relate it to the earlier 18th
00:38:22
century architecture but this was not
00:38:25
where the action was in the 1830s you
00:38:28
have to go uptown for that and to go
00:38:30
uptown upriver you have to cross Canal
00:38:33
Street this is a very early view of
00:38:36
Canal Street and I really like it
00:38:39
because you can see lined up here the
00:38:42
Omnibus is the that were mule-drawn and
00:38:45
it was these carriages that brought
00:38:48
people upriver on the same route that we
00:38:51
use today so if you take the streetcar
00:38:53
you are following the path
00:38:55
of originally the mule-drawn omnibus and
00:38:58
later the steam-powered and now of
00:39:01
course their their electrical so the
00:39:03
first uptown suburb opened was the
00:39:07
Faubourg st. Mary this is now the
00:39:10
central business district or CBD as we
00:39:13
call it and you see some of the kinds of
00:39:15
buildings that existed at the time it
00:39:18
was a brand-new subdivision to be
00:39:20
populated mostly by Anglos from the east
00:39:24
coast from Scotland from Ireland from
00:39:28
all over the British Isles and along the
00:39:31
riverfront they established the port
00:39:34
uses behind that were foundries and all
00:39:36
sorts of other businesses the main
00:39:38
streets such as Canal Street had shops
00:39:41
and fancy offices and insurance
00:39:45
companies all sorts of great buildings
00:39:46
and with few exceptions the architecture
00:39:49
styles were not those that you have seen
00:39:52
heretofore and that you will see in the
00:39:55
quarter and downriver suburbs but they
00:39:58
were in the new American styles such as
00:40:00
the Greek Revival the most impressive
00:40:03
example remaining of which is gallier
00:40:05
Hall it was originally completed about
00:40:08
1850 to serve as the second municipality
00:40:13
Hall later became the city of New
00:40:15
Orleans Hall and it is still used owned
00:40:19
by the city and used for receptions and
00:40:21
so forth beautiful example of the Greek
00:40:24
Revival designed by Irish born architect
00:40:27
James gallier senior it's built of
00:40:29
granite and marble and it's it's quite
00:40:32
the grand building it overlooks
00:40:34
Lafayette Square
00:40:35
which was the American equivalent of the
00:40:37
plus dorms now Jackson Square we also
00:40:42
had some very fine buildings in the
00:40:46
Gothic Revival taste which was never as
00:40:48
popular anywhere as the Greek Revival
00:40:50
but here we have churches a few houses
00:40:52
this is the wonderful st. Patrick's
00:40:55
Church built by the Dakin brothers out
00:40:57
of New York
00:40:58
the interiors however were done by James
00:41:01
a year senior in the Gothic Revival
00:41:02
style he was versatile and if you have a
00:41:05
moment to visit there please go inside
00:41:08
if it's open it is the most splendid
00:41:10
Gothic Revival interior completely
00:41:14
restored and kept up even the Cypress
00:41:17
pews are original it's just just quite
00:41:19
beautiful but you can see from this
00:41:22
slide that this was quite an active and
00:41:25
Americanized area many hundreds of town
00:41:29
houses were built either in rows such as
00:41:32
we have here or singly the rows this
00:41:36
being a famous one called the 13 sisters
00:41:39
they're 13 townhouses usually had
00:41:44
balconies not verandas or galleries they
00:41:47
featured the famous red brick from the
00:41:49
north and many of them are classically
00:41:52
detailed unfortunately many of these are
00:41:55
gone now but we do have a few good
00:41:57
examples to see but this idea of the
00:42:01
side hall townhouse an American idea
00:42:03
caught fire in New Orleans and so for
00:42:06
the rest of the century we see them
00:42:08
built in frame in masonry in the CBD in
00:42:12
Uptown neighborhoods especially in the
00:42:14
Garden District and here's just one
00:42:16
example on Esplanade Avenue that shows
00:42:19
how the later Italianate was a popular
00:42:22
style for the side hall townhouses
00:42:27
now we're really going to head uptown
00:42:29
and rather than using an historic map I
00:42:32
wanted you to see the amount of the city
00:42:35
that is under historic district control
00:42:37
one way or another we are here in the
00:42:41
French Quarter you'll be visiting the
00:42:43
Garden District which is here and
00:42:45
mention the Irish Channel and these are
00:42:48
all the wonderful uptown suburbs the
00:42:50
former city of Carrollton of course now
00:42:52
part of us and the downtown suburbs as
00:42:56
well so this gives you an idea of how
00:43:01
the city followed the curve of the river
00:43:04
and also the Omnibus / streetcar
00:43:09
the curve of the river now in this area
00:43:12
which was known as the city of Lafayette
00:43:14
in the Garden District this was
00:43:17
developed in 1832 by American investors
00:43:21
who paid about half a million dollars
00:43:23
for this large plot of land that went
00:43:25
all the way to the river closer to the
00:43:27
river report uses tanneries and such
00:43:30
backed by small frame houses mostly for
00:43:33
workers that's now known as the Irish
00:43:36
Channel but in the area close to st.
00:43:39
Charles higher ground and a better
00:43:41
building a better building land you had
00:43:46
a wonderful neighborhood and a beautiful
00:43:49
neighborhood the daily Delta in 1847
00:43:53
described it better than I can the rear
00:43:55
of Lafayette as it was then
00:43:57
Lafayette city is most beautifully
00:44:00
situated for dwelling houses the ground
00:44:02
is high and dry and vegetation
00:44:04
flourishes in it in amazing luxurious
00:44:08
nasir are collected many handsome villas
00:44:10
with gardens and large yards and who
00:44:14
seem to us
00:44:16
crowded denizens seem to us crowded
00:44:19
denizens of New Orleans emerging from
00:44:21
our little narrow damp yards to be
00:44:24
perfect princes of luck and happiness so
00:44:28
there is this distinction between the
00:44:31
Creole Spanish French damp small crowded
00:44:37
and these beautiful lots and buildings
00:44:41
of the Garden District this is the
00:44:43
famous Buckner house beautiful Greek
00:44:46
Revival design these houses some are
00:44:49
quite large and even occupied a quarter
00:44:51
of a square I like the Italian aid ones
00:44:55
I think that they are just so pretty
00:44:57
with the shadows from their verandas of
00:45:00
these houses Mark Twain said these
00:45:03
mansions stand in the center of large
00:45:04
grounds and rise garland it with Rose
00:45:08
out of the midst of swelling masses of
00:45:10
shining green foliage and many colored
00:45:13
blossoms no houses could well be in
00:45:16
better harmony with their surroundings
00:45:17
or more pleasing to the eye
00:45:22
he also said all the dwellings have a
00:45:26
comfortable look those in the wealthy
00:45:28
quarter are spacious painted snowy white
00:45:31
usually and generally have wide verandas
00:45:34
or double verandas supported by
00:45:36
ornamental columns so you'll be seeing a
00:45:40
number of these buildings on your tours
00:45:42
and you will also notice too that
00:45:45
squeezed in among our Queen Anne houses
00:45:47
and smaller dwellings and just be aware
00:45:50
that many of these large quarter lots
00:45:52
were sold off sometime in the 19th or
00:45:55
20th century by their owners and new
00:45:57
infill structures many of them quite
00:46:01
quite nice and lovely in themselves
00:46:03
now enhance the garden district
00:46:08
meanwhile back in the creole area in the
00:46:11
old city in the Vieux Carre a mid 19th
00:46:14
century residents realized that their
00:46:16
businesses and even their culture were
00:46:18
about to be eclipsed by the Anglo
00:46:20
Americans so in addition to erecting a
00:46:23
splendid new hotel and commercial
00:46:25
structures they decided to renovate
00:46:28
essentially the area around Jackson
00:46:30
Square the centerpiece was the new st.
00:46:35
Louis Cathedral in the center designed
00:46:38
by French born architect Jean tepui in
00:46:41
the latest French romantic tastes the
00:46:44
fence around Jackson Square was replaced
00:46:46
the hole was replanted and replanned so
00:46:49
that it became an urban promenade rather
00:46:52
than a parade ground for the military
00:46:56
beautiful fence was added the Andrew
00:47:00
Jackson statue was erected in 1856 the
00:47:03
Clark mill statue and then the mansard
00:47:05
roofs and cupola were added to the
00:47:08
Patera and the Cabildo alongside Jackson
00:47:14
Square we see the really extraordinary
00:47:18
Ponte buildings which revealed as town
00:47:21
houses not apartments although their
00:47:23
apartments today but they were not
00:47:25
townhouses they were not apartments they
00:47:27
were townhouses and they were built by
00:47:30
the Baroness von tauba whose father Alma
00:47:33
Nestor had paid for so much of the
00:47:35
renovation around Jackson Square in the
00:47:38
Spanish colonial period a close-up of
00:47:42
her buildings reveals the wonderful red
00:47:45
brick with the granite columns below and
00:47:48
most striking is the cast-iron veranda
00:47:52
which reaches out over the sidewalk a
00:47:54
fairly new idea at the time
00:47:55
if you go there of course notice the
00:47:58
cartouche in the middle which contains
00:48:00
the entwined initials of Alma nestor and
00:48:03
pont alba now everybody thought this was
00:48:07
a great idea to steal a bunch of land
00:48:10
from the city of New Orleans by building
00:48:12
over the sidewalks but it also provided
00:48:15
something for the citizens shade from
00:48:18
the sun protection from the rain so many
00:48:21
of the wonderful wrought iron balconies
00:48:23
were torn down remelted and cast-iron
00:48:27
verandas were added to early buildings
00:48:29
this is in 1832 red brick townhouse or
00:48:34
stuck-up townhouse and you can see that
00:48:36
the veranda additions all over the
00:48:39
quarter would really have changed the
00:48:41
look of the neighborhood so back uptown
00:48:45
again remembering that this street car
00:48:48
carried everyone to these new suburbs I
00:48:50
want to mention houses like this there
00:48:55
are thousands of them and no two alike
00:48:58
the Uptown suburbs above the Garden
00:49:01
District were usually were primarily
00:49:04
built up between 1870 and World War one
00:49:07
most are frame they are in so many
00:49:10
different styles and types you can
00:49:12
hardly
00:49:13
them cottages shotguns mansions double
00:49:16
singles camelbaks
00:49:19
two-story homes some are simple summer
00:49:23
grand but most of them incorporate some
00:49:26
sort of millwork detail this beautiful
00:49:29
sawn Cypress would one of the newspaper
00:49:35
said the old-fashioned straight up and
00:49:37
down box houses are we are pleased to
00:49:40
see giving way to those more elegant and
00:49:42
design thus proving that our citizens
00:49:44
are becoming imbued with a taste for the
00:49:46
beautiful in architecture but maybe best
00:49:51
of all in vernacular architecture are
00:49:53
the shotgun houses and we have so many
00:49:56
left it's just unbelievable even after
00:49:58
we lost so many in Katrina Hall streets
00:50:01
are composed even whole neighborhoods
00:50:03
are mostly shotguns and this they were
00:50:06
well suited to the long narrow blots and
00:50:09
the limited drained ground in New
00:50:13
Orleans but the story goes that if you
00:50:16
stand in the front door and fire a
00:50:19
shotgun it will go out the back the shot
00:50:22
will go out the back without hitting
00:50:24
anything now if you think of that for a
00:50:26
moment you will realize it's an absurd
00:50:27
concept would never work but that's what
00:50:30
we call it so we have single shotguns
00:50:35
double shotguns I like a single shotgun
00:50:39
another single shotgun I wanted to show
00:50:40
you this one because you can see how
00:50:42
people really live in them to this day
00:50:44
no they're not perfectly restored and
00:50:46
there's a chain-link fence but at the
00:50:48
same time they have this feel that they
00:50:51
have always been there lived in by New
00:50:53
Orleanians which is true now the double
00:50:57
shotgun was normally used by two
00:51:00
families one on each side so it's two
00:51:03
rooms wide then there's the Camelback
00:51:06
shotgun it has an additional raised
00:51:10
portion in the rear that could be
00:51:12
entered generally from the out
00:51:14
and might even have been used for rental
00:51:16
apartments the millwork industry worked
00:51:22
out the swamps cut all the timber in the
00:51:25
late nineteenth century but until that
00:51:28
time and employed many New Orleanians
00:51:29
and enhanced many wonderful buildings
00:51:33
now we also followed some trends in
00:51:36
public buildings I'm not going to say
00:51:37
much about this but I will mention the
00:51:40
1888 building the Howard library in the
00:51:44
Richard Sounion Romanesque style in fact
00:51:47
it was built after Richardson died he
00:51:50
was in native New Orleanians Linnaean by
00:51:53
his firm so be looking for some
00:51:55
outstanding public buildings of the late
00:51:57
19th and early 20th century but mostly
00:52:00
you'll be seeing I think these houses
00:52:03
this wonderful one on st. Charles Avenue
00:52:05
which due to the city beautiful movement
00:52:07
and the expansion of wealth in New
00:52:11
Orleans at that time st. Charles Avenue
00:52:13
became the place to live so we see
00:52:16
houses in the Romanesque Revival in the
00:52:19
Queen Anne and even in we call this the
00:52:24
wedding cake house of course it's
00:52:26
Georgian Revival but what Georgian huh
00:52:28
just beautiful
00:52:29
across the street from where we sit
00:52:33
you'll see our best example of the bows
00:52:36
art style in New Orleans the Supreme
00:52:38
Court building built in 1906 I'm just
00:52:41
showing you an entrance I hope you'll at
00:52:43
least walk around and have a look at it
00:52:46
during the 20s and 30s
00:52:49
our central business district developed
00:52:51
as many did across the country a
00:52:52
combination of old and new and ever
00:52:55
larger and taller office buildings new
00:53:02
orleans advertised itself as a modern
00:53:04
city with an impressive financial
00:53:06
district a thriving port and a
00:53:08
well-developed
00:53:09
central business district but down in
00:53:12
the creole suburbs this was what was
00:53:13
happening
00:53:14
at the same time that progress was a
00:53:17
watchword
00:53:18
in the city citizens realized that
00:53:20
valuable old buildings were falling to
00:53:22
the wrecking ball into deterioration so
00:53:25
they mobilized a hundred years ago
00:53:27
artists writers business people uptown
00:53:30
ladies women advocacy suffragettes all
00:53:34
took up the cause of preserving our
00:53:36
older neighborhoods and this of course
00:53:39
is the slide of the Ursuline convent
00:53:42
with the neighborhoods and the rivers
00:53:43
spread out behind it and this
00:53:47
preservation movement I just want to say
00:53:51
that everything everything that you will
00:53:53
be seeing as you go around New Orleans
00:53:56
is due to a century of work
00:54:01
by neighborhood organizations and
00:54:04
individuals dedicated to the
00:54:06
preservation of this city people have
00:54:08
worked hard for all these years to keep
00:54:11
our city as intact as we could and going
00:54:14
forward we have a wonderful new
00:54:15
generation of people who are moving
00:54:19
towards this and finding new ways of
00:54:22
using our old buildings and so I hope
00:54:24
you will also appreciate in addition the
00:54:26
architecture the work that has gone in
00:54:29
to preserving it and I think of you all
00:54:32
as New Orleans preservationist and so I
00:54:35
thank you very much this morning for
00:54:38
listening to this talk and I hope that
00:54:40
there will be something here for each of
00:54:42
you to take away that will be useful in
00:54:44
your stay so thank you so very much
00:54:50
[Applause]