Rick Steves Iceland

00:56:18
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7glld8yO3Xo

الملخص

TLDRRick Steves journeys through Iceland, beginning in Reykjavík and exploring its stunning natural beauty and vibrant culture. He experiences the capital's unique mix of history and modernity, from iconic landmarks like Hallgríms Church to local thermal pools. Steves emphasizes key attractions such as the Golden Circle, featuring significant geological sites and beautiful waterfalls. He further embarks on an adventurous road trip around Iceland's Ring Road, taking in scenic fjords, geysers, and geothermal areas. The trip showcases Iceland's unique food culture, outdoor activities, and rich history of resilience in harsh environments, all highlighting why this island nation captivates so many visitors.

الوجبات الجاهزة

  • 🌋 Iceland is known for its geysers and volcanoes.
  • 🏞️ The Golden Circle is a popular day trip from Reykjavík.
  • 🐟 Try traditional Icelandic foods like fermented shark.
  • 🧥 Icelandic wool sweaters are famous and unique.
  • 🏝️ The Blue Lagoon is a well-known geothermal spa.
  • 🌈 Reykjavík features vibrant street art and a lively culture.
  • 🐴 Icelandic horses are a distinct breed with a unique gait.
  • ⛰️ The Ring Road offers breathtaking scenery across the country.
  • 🦩 Puffins are a beloved local bird.
  • 💧 Iceland's geothermal energy powers homes and businesses.

الجدول الزمني

  • 00:00:00 - 00:05:00

    Rick Steves introduces Iceland, highlighting its stunning nature, resilient culture, and the planned adventure across the island, starting with Reykjavík and following the Golden Circle before embarking on the Ring Road tour.

  • 00:05:00 - 00:10:00

    Reykjavík serves as a vibrant launch point for the journey, with characteristic churches, street art, and cultural flavor, acting as a small yet cosmopolitan capital of Iceland, where locals and tourists enjoy unique experiences despite the often chilly weather.

  • 00:10:00 - 00:15:00

    Central to Reykjavík is Hallgríms Church, symbolizing Icelandic identity and heritage, designed to mirror the natural landscape, while historical figures like Leif Erikson celebrate the Viking legacy and the culture of exploration.

  • 00:15:00 - 00:20:00

    Iceland's history is traced from Norse settlement to modern nationhood, with the National Museum showcasing artifacts and cultural evolution through challenging climates, fishing reliance, and a growing national consciousness leading to independence from Denmark in 1918.

  • 00:20:00 - 00:25:00

    The bustling harbor is a testament to Reykjavík's working past, featuring landmarks like the Harpa concert hall and a recognition of national artists like Einar Jónsson through his impactful sculptures, reflecting Iceland's artistic spirit and community engagement.

  • 00:25:00 - 00:30:00

    Through a local guide, the uniqueness of Reykjavík's neighborhoods is revealed, showcasing colorful architecture and traditions, emphasizing a culture shaped by resilience amid a harsh climate, as exemplified in local sayings that signify optimism.

  • 00:30:00 - 00:35:00

    The flea market emerges as a vibrant local scene, where visitors can purchase traditional Icelandic wool sweaters and sample unique foods, pointing to historical survival strategies with local specialties like fermented shark that reflects toughness and innovative gastronomy.

  • 00:35:00 - 00:40:00

    Iceland's volcanic nature is explored, noting the rarity of dramatic eruptions but the abundance of geothermal activity, leading to the Blue Lagoon, a popular tourist site, juxtaposed with authentic local thermal pools that provide communal gathering spaces for relaxation.

  • 00:40:00 - 00:45:00

    The Golden Circle trip highlights iconic natural wonders like Thingvellir National Park, where tectonic plates meet, and Geysir, showcasing geothermal phenomena, along with numerous opportunities to appreciate Icelandic agriculture and culinary experiences during the excursion.

  • 00:45:00 - 00:50:00

    From waterfalls like Gullfoss to geothermal landscapes, the journey around Iceland's Ring Road promises awe-inspiring sights, leading to adventures in Thorsmork Valley, where nature's power enchants travelers through off-road accessibility and breathtaking hikes amidst glaciers and rugged terrain.

  • 00:50:00 - 00:56:18

    As the adventure continues, the Westman Islands’ volcanic history unfolds, revealing the deep connection between the local culture and their surroundings, from egg-collecting traditions to the abundant wildlife that characterizes this beautiful but challenging land.

اعرض المزيد

الخريطة الذهنية

فيديو أسئلة وأجوبة

  • What are the must-see attractions in Iceland?

    Must-see attractions include Reykjavík, the Golden Circle (Thingvellir, Geysir, Gullfoss), and driving the Ring Road which features waterfalls, geothermal fields, and volcanic landscapes.

  • What is the weather like in Iceland?

    Iceland's weather can be unpredictable and varies greatly; it can be cold even in summer, so layering is recommended.

  • What traditional food should I try in Iceland?

    You should try traditional foods like fermented shark, Arctic char, and lamb, along with Icelandic sweaters made from local sheep wool.

  • What is the Blue Lagoon?

    The Blue Lagoon is a famous geothermal spa known for its mineral-rich waters, located near Reykjavík.

  • How is Iceland's geothermal energy utilized?

    Iceland harnesses geothermal energy for heating homes and generating electricity, allowing for affordable and efficient energy use.

  • What unique wildlife can be found in Iceland?

    Unique wildlife includes puffins, whales, and Icelandic horses.

  • How long does it take to drive the Ring Road?

    Driving the entire Ring Road can take about 30 hours non-stop, but it's recommended to spend 5 to 6 days to explore properly.

  • Are there options for budget accommodation in Iceland?

    Yes, there are a range of accommodation options from hotels to camping, and many travelers enjoy staying in camper vans.

  • What is sprangan in Icelandic culture?

    Sprangan is a traditional method of egg collecting practiced by locals to maintain the bird populations.

  • What is Húsavík known for?

    Húsavík is known as the whale-watching capital of Iceland, offering opportunities to see various species of whales.

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الترجمات
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التمرير التلقائي:
  • 00:00:00
    Hi. I'm Rick Steves on the wild and western fringe of Europe.
  • 00:00:05
    It's Iceland--the land of thunderous waterfalls,
  • 00:00:09
    fiery volcanoes, and the midnight sun.
  • 00:00:11
    With a resilient culture and epic natural thrills,
  • 00:00:15
    we'll see why this little island
  • 00:00:17
    is so dang popular.
  • 00:00:19
    Thanks for joining us!
  • 00:00:21
    ♪
  • 00:00:51
    To fully experience Iceland, we start in the capital city,
  • 00:00:55
    Reykjavík, then we day-trip deep into the blustery interior
  • 00:00:59
    to sample the power of nature on the famed Golden Circle,
  • 00:01:03
    and then we do the epic road trip:
  • 00:01:06
    Iceland's 800-mile Ring Road
  • 00:01:08
    circling this unforgettable island.
  • 00:01:12
    Rick, voice-over: Reykjavík, with its
  • 00:01:13
    landmark church, ruddy urban charm,
  • 00:01:16
    and determined cultural life is our springboard.
  • 00:01:20
    After soaking with the locals in a thermal pool
  • 00:01:22
    and enjoying an Icelandic feast,
  • 00:01:24
    we do the famous Golden Circle day trip.
  • 00:01:27
    We'll see the gorge where Europe meets America,
  • 00:01:31
    thrill under the original "geyser,"
  • 00:01:34
    and feel the spray of a thundering waterfall.
  • 00:01:38
    Then we hit the road-- the Ring Road--
  • 00:01:40
    and circle the entire island.
  • 00:01:43
    With help from Cameron Hewitt, my friend and fellow
  • 00:01:45
    guidebook author, we'll do it all:
  • 00:01:47
    exploring waterfalls,
  • 00:01:49
    hiking through steaming geothermal fields,
  • 00:01:52
    cruising lagoons bobbing with icebergs,
  • 00:01:55
    fording glacial rivers,
  • 00:01:58
    gathering eggs local style...
  • 00:02:01
    and wandering evocative black-sand beaches.
  • 00:02:05
    We'll chase rainbows, elusive whales,
  • 00:02:08
    roaming horses, and the cutest puffins.
  • 00:02:13
    Iceland, about the size of Virginia with just
  • 00:02:16
    400,000 people, sits between Greenland and Norway.
  • 00:02:20
    From Reykjavík, after the Golden Circle day trip,
  • 00:02:23
    we hit the Ring Road.
  • 00:02:25
    We explore the South Coast,
  • 00:02:27
    side-tripping up Thorsmork valley
  • 00:02:30
    and sailing to the Westman Islands.
  • 00:02:32
    After Vík, we see glacial lagoons,
  • 00:02:35
    the rugged Eastfjords,
  • 00:02:38
    geothermal hot zones around Lake Myvatn,
  • 00:02:41
    the fishing village of Húsavík in the far north,
  • 00:02:44
    and Snaefellsnes Peninsula before finishing
  • 00:02:47
    back where we started.
  • 00:02:48
    ♪
  • 00:02:52
    Reykjavík, by far the biggest city in the country,
  • 00:02:54
    is still small--it's about the size of Berkeley, or Fargo.
  • 00:02:59
    With a hard-scrabble heritage and a vibrant culture,
  • 00:03:02
    today it offers a tourist- friendly mix of old and new.
  • 00:03:08
    Rick, voice-over: While short on world-class sights,
  • 00:03:10
    Reykjavík certainly has an urban vitality,
  • 00:03:13
    with plenty of restaurants and shopping
  • 00:03:15
    to keep visitors entertained.
  • 00:03:17
    It's unexpectedly cosmopolitan,
  • 00:03:19
    with an artistic, bohemian flair.
  • 00:03:23
    And it's blustery.
  • 00:03:25
    Iceland can be cold even in summer.
  • 00:03:28
    This is a typical day in July...and so is this.
  • 00:03:32
    If you don't like the weather, just wait a few minutes.
  • 00:03:35
    ♪
  • 00:03:38
    Reykjavík's neighborhoods are enlivened by street art.
  • 00:03:41
    A blank wall will just get tagged with graffiti anyway,
  • 00:03:44
    so, instead, homeowners hire talented street artists
  • 00:03:47
    to create colorful murals.
  • 00:03:49
    ♪
  • 00:03:55
    It seems every street leads to Hallgríms Church,
  • 00:03:59
    crowning a hill in the town center.
  • 00:04:01
    ♪
  • 00:04:08
    Designed by Iceland's state architect in the 1930s,
  • 00:04:12
    the church represents the national style.
  • 00:04:14
    Stark and utilitarian, yet beautiful,
  • 00:04:17
    it evokes the island's volcanic landscape.
  • 00:04:21
    Stairstepped gables echo Iceland's basalt cliffs.
  • 00:04:24
    ♪
  • 00:04:28
    The interior is Lutheran-- serene and austere.
  • 00:04:34
    The glass is clear, not stained...
  • 00:04:38
    and the altar is a simple table.
  • 00:04:40
    ♪
  • 00:04:44
    An elevator whisks visitors to the top of the tower
  • 00:04:47
    for panoramic views over all of Reykjavík.
  • 00:04:49
    ♪
  • 00:04:51
    Two out of every 3 Icelanders
  • 00:04:53
    lives within sight of this steeple.
  • 00:04:56
    ♪
  • 00:05:00
    In front of the church stands a statue of Leif Erikson.
  • 00:05:04
    Born here in Iceland, this Viking explorer
  • 00:05:07
    is believed to be the first European to set foot
  • 00:05:10
    in the Americas-- about 5 centuries
  • 00:05:12
    before Christopher Columbus.
  • 00:05:14
    ♪
  • 00:05:17
    The modern sculpture called "The Sea Voyager"
  • 00:05:20
    is an homage to those Scandinavian adventurers
  • 00:05:23
    who, beginning in the ninth century,
  • 00:05:25
    loaded up their ships, set sail into an uncharted ocean,
  • 00:05:29
    and brought civilization to this uninhabited island.
  • 00:05:33
    ♪
  • 00:05:36
    Iceland, so harsh and desolate,
  • 00:05:39
    steaming with volcanoes, was settled
  • 00:05:41
    over 1,000 years ago by early Norse farmers.
  • 00:05:44
    ♪
  • 00:05:46
    Imagine the original Icelanders--
  • 00:05:49
    hardy folk eking out a living on remote farms,
  • 00:05:53
    living in isolation.
  • 00:05:55
    They chronicled their lives in "the Sagas"--
  • 00:05:58
    a blending of historical records,
  • 00:06:00
    tall tales, and legends.
  • 00:06:02
    ♪
  • 00:06:08
    From the age of the Vikings, the country grew slowly.
  • 00:06:12
    By the mid-1700s, all of Iceland still only had
  • 00:06:15
    about 50,000 people, and Reykjavík was just a big farm.
  • 00:06:20
    As trade, mostly fishing, increased,
  • 00:06:23
    and towns began to form,
  • 00:06:24
    Reykjavík emerged as the capital city.
  • 00:06:28
    Rick, voice-over: The National Museum collects artifacts
  • 00:06:30
    from these early days of Iceland.
  • 00:06:33
    A society made of wood doesn't leave much behind.
  • 00:06:36
    ♪
  • 00:06:39
    But a few exquisite items, like these ornamental horns,
  • 00:06:44
    and these whalebone carvings, survive.
  • 00:06:46
    ♪
  • 00:06:52
    Pagan Iceland converted to Christianity
  • 00:06:54
    in about the year 1000.
  • 00:06:57
    Until relatively modern times,
  • 00:06:59
    Icelandic settlers lived in rustic cottages.
  • 00:07:04
    Existence may have been bleak, but families were tight-knit.
  • 00:07:08
    Many Icelanders lived simple lives, much like this,
  • 00:07:12
    until the early 20th century.
  • 00:07:14
    ♪
  • 00:07:16
    Life was tied to the sea.
  • 00:07:19
    Icelanders sailed in open boats, fished for cod,
  • 00:07:23
    and hunted shark for their valuable liver oil.
  • 00:07:26
    ♪
  • 00:07:27
    More and more, symbols like an official national costume
  • 00:07:31
    and its own flag demonstrated a growing sense
  • 00:07:34
    of national identity.
  • 00:07:37
    Iceland remained part of Denmark through the 1800s.
  • 00:07:41
    Iceland-born politician Jón Sigurdsson
  • 00:07:44
    lobbied in Copenhagen for independence,
  • 00:07:47
    which Denmark finally granted in 1918.
  • 00:07:50
    ♪
  • 00:07:53
    Iceland's parliament, called the Althing, may seem humble.
  • 00:07:57
    But it represents a thousand- year journey in this society
  • 00:08:00
    from rustic farmsteads to today's
  • 00:08:03
    modern, democratic nation.
  • 00:08:05
    ♪
  • 00:08:08
    Rick, voice-over: For locals, Parliament Square
  • 00:08:10
    remains a place to make your voice heard...
  • 00:08:14
    or to just hang out.
  • 00:08:16
    ♪
  • 00:08:20
    Reykjavík still has a hardworking harbor,
  • 00:08:23
    busy with both industrial vessels and sightseeing boats.
  • 00:08:29
    And, in just the last generation,
  • 00:08:31
    boldly modern condos and office towers show how today's Iceland
  • 00:08:36
    is charging into the future.
  • 00:08:38
    ♪
  • 00:08:40
    And a fine example of that is the super-modern concert hall,
  • 00:08:44
    called Harpa.
  • 00:08:45
    ♪
  • 00:08:47
    In the lobby, the sky reflects like you're inside
  • 00:08:50
    a giant honeycombed prism.
  • 00:08:51
    ♪
  • 00:08:53
    This extravagant use of space and glass
  • 00:08:56
    put Iceland on the world's architectural map
  • 00:08:59
    when it opened in 2011.
  • 00:09:02
    Welcoming the public, a hit with locals and tourists,
  • 00:09:05
    and busy with conferences and concerts,
  • 00:09:08
    Harpa is the hub of the country's
  • 00:09:10
    cultural and community activity.
  • 00:09:13
    ♪
  • 00:09:16
    This island is proud of its homegrown artists,
  • 00:09:19
    especially the sculptor Einar Jónsson,
  • 00:09:22
    who in the early 1900s was inspired by Rodin.
  • 00:09:25
    ♪
  • 00:09:27
    A welcoming sculpture garden
  • 00:09:29
    is filled with his bronze works.
  • 00:09:33
    Inside the Einar Jónsson museum
  • 00:09:35
    are the plaster originals.
  • 00:09:38
    Jónsson's works are intense and emotive.
  • 00:09:42
    You'll see Viking warriors...
  • 00:09:46
    bold explorers...
  • 00:09:49
    protective women...
  • 00:09:52
    and lots of drama.
  • 00:09:54
    He blended elements of Christianity,
  • 00:09:58
    Old Norse legend, Greek mythology,
  • 00:10:02
    and his own belief that every person
  • 00:10:04
    contains at least a kernel of goodness.
  • 00:10:08
    A visit here reminds us that even small countries
  • 00:10:10
    produce talented artists, like Jonsson,
  • 00:10:13
    worth getting to know.
  • 00:10:16
    For a peek at the city's everyday charms
  • 00:10:19
    and more insight into the culture,
  • 00:10:21
    I'm joined by local tour guide Saga Fridriksdottir,
  • 00:10:24
    a Reykjavík native who loves showing off her hometown.
  • 00:10:29
    Saga, I love Iceland, but this language is impossible for me.
  • 00:10:33
    I mean, how can any tourist remember that?
  • 00:10:35
    Saga: Oh. Well, I mean Skolavordustigur.
  • 00:10:38
    Rick: Skolavordustigur.
  • 00:10:40
    Saga: Yeah, it's pretty hard, but you know,
  • 00:10:41
    we all speak English as well.
  • 00:10:43
    Rick: Thank goodness.
  • 00:10:45
    This street makes me happy.
  • 00:10:47
    Saga: Very happy. Very colorful.
  • 00:10:48
    Dedicated to gay pride.
  • 00:10:50
    But also a reminder that Iceland is much for,
  • 00:10:53
    just equality and human rights.
  • 00:10:57
    And this is always Rainbow Street.
  • 00:10:59
    Rick: Nice. Saga: Yes.
  • 00:11:00
    Rick: So, in the summer, days are very long,
  • 00:11:02
    but in the winter...what is it like in the winter?
  • 00:11:04
    Saga: Well, cold and very, very dark.
  • 00:11:08
    But we have these beautiful, colorful houses
  • 00:11:12
    that really characterizes Reykjavík.
  • 00:11:14
    They brighten up our days in winter.
  • 00:11:16
    And also, you notice we have a lot of corrugated iron
  • 00:11:19
    that clothe these wooden houses, which was a revolutionary
  • 00:11:23
    material because it protected the houses
  • 00:11:27
    from this crazy Icelandic weather.
  • 00:11:29
    Rick: I'm sure historically, this is a society
  • 00:11:32
    that has dealt with hardships.
  • 00:11:34
    Saga: Oh, yeah, for sure. Definitely.
  • 00:11:36
    But we have a strong mentality and there's actually
  • 00:11:39
    a saying in Iceland: Thetta reddast.
  • 00:11:42
    Rick: Thetta reddast. Saga: Thetta reddast.
  • 00:11:45
    And it basically just means, "It's going to be fine.
  • 00:11:47
    Don't worry about it. It's gonna work out."
  • 00:11:50
    Rick, voice-over: On weekends, the downtown flea market
  • 00:11:53
    is a characteristic and mostly local shopping scene.
  • 00:11:57
    This is really a fun place.
  • 00:11:58
    Rick, voice-over: And don't miss those famous Icelandic sweaters.
  • 00:12:01
    Rick: I don't do a lot of shopping,
  • 00:12:04
    but when it comes to the Nordic countries, I like a sweater.
  • 00:12:08
    Oh, that's beautiful. So, Saga,
  • 00:12:10
    this really feels like good wool.
  • 00:12:12
    Saga: I mean, we consider it to be
  • 00:12:13
    the best wool in the world.
  • 00:12:15
    Rick: This is like Icelandic sheep.
  • 00:12:17
    Saga: Proper Icelandic sheep wool, yes.
  • 00:12:19
    Rick: And what--is it special?
  • 00:12:20
    Because it feels a little special.
  • 00:12:22
    Saga: Well, I guess because they've been roaming freely
  • 00:12:24
    in Iceland since 874.
  • 00:12:26
    They know how to deal with rough Icelandic weather,
  • 00:12:29
    and they give us the perfect clothing for that.
  • 00:12:34
    Rick: Oh, yeah. Do you think it's good?
  • 00:12:36
    Woman: Yes. Saga: It's very good.
  • 00:12:38
    Rick: I like it because it feels it has history.
  • 00:12:40
    Woman: It's warm and good. You see you.
  • 00:12:43
    Saga: Wow. Rick: Oh, look at that. Yeah.
  • 00:12:46
    Saga: You look like a local.
  • 00:12:48
    Rick: I feel like a local. I can speak Icelandic.
  • 00:12:50
    Saga: Yes. [Rick laughs]
  • 00:12:52
    Rick, voice-over: The flea market is also a place
  • 00:12:54
    you can sample some unique tastes.
  • 00:12:57
    As the early Icelanders settled this untamed island,
  • 00:13:01
    they resorted to many "hardship foods."
  • 00:13:04
    Rick: So, when we come to Iceland,
  • 00:13:05
    everybody has to try the shark.
  • 00:13:07
    Saga: They have to try the shark. Definitely.
  • 00:13:09
    I mean, this is the famous Greenland shark.
  • 00:13:12
    Rick: This is shark. Fermented shark.
  • 00:13:14
    Saga: Fermented shark. Yeah. Because if you would
  • 00:13:17
    eat the shark straight away, you know, when it's fresh,
  • 00:13:19
    you would die, unfortunately.
  • 00:13:21
    Rick: You would die? Saga: Yes, it is toxic.
  • 00:13:23
    Rick: So, how did you ferment this?
  • 00:13:24
    Saga: So, you chop it in pieces,
  • 00:13:26
    you bury it in the ground for some time,
  • 00:13:27
    and then hang it up, and you get rid of
  • 00:13:29
    the, the ammonia, or, like,
  • 00:13:31
    the urine, basically, which is the toxins.
  • 00:13:33
    And I always think, like, how many tries did it take
  • 00:13:36
    to figure out this method of, like,
  • 00:13:39
    not getting killed by eating the shark?
  • 00:13:41
    Rick: That just stokes my appetite.
  • 00:13:43
    Is it possible to try some?
  • 00:13:44
    Saga: You have to try it. There's some pieces here.
  • 00:13:47
    Rick: Good. I'm gonna put this piece of shark down.
  • 00:13:50
    Saga: And this is usually how it comes, like in small pieces.
  • 00:13:53
    So, you're more than welcome to have a piece
  • 00:13:55
    or two, if you fancy it.
  • 00:13:59
    [Rick laughs]
  • 00:14:00
    Saga: Give it a good chew.
  • 00:14:03
    Rick: Wow.
  • 00:14:04
    Now, that is very fishy right now.
  • 00:14:07
    Saga: Yes. Wait for the aftertaste.
  • 00:14:09
    Rick: Yeah. My goodness.
  • 00:14:10
    Now it's like it just got
  • 00:14:12
    swept over with--with ammonia.
  • 00:14:14
    Saga: Right.
  • 00:14:16
    And usually you're supposed to drink it
  • 00:14:17
    with the Black Death schnapps-- Brennivín.
  • 00:14:21
    Rick: Some fire water. Saga: Yes, please have some.
  • 00:14:23
    Rick: Oh, baby, that is...unforgettable.
  • 00:14:25
    Saga: Yeah.
  • 00:14:26
    But now you tried the famous Icelandic shark.
  • 00:14:29
    Rick: The aftertaste... I just feel like I've
  • 00:14:31
    been in a gas station or something.
  • 00:14:33
    All: 1, 2, 3, go!
  • 00:14:43
    Iceland is a volcanic island. it's formed at the rift
  • 00:14:47
    where the European and North American
  • 00:14:48
    tectonic plates are pulling apart.
  • 00:14:50
    That's why there's a chain of active volcanoes, hot springs,
  • 00:14:53
    and steam vents like this
  • 00:14:55
    cutting right through the center of the country.
  • 00:14:58
    Rick, voice-over: Visitors come to Iceland
  • 00:14:59
    hoping to see a volcanic eruption.
  • 00:15:01
    But big, dramatic eruptions,
  • 00:15:03
    that casual visitors can actually
  • 00:15:05
    get up close to and see, are very rare.
  • 00:15:08
    ♪
  • 00:15:13
    But exploring this island does come with
  • 00:15:15
    plenty of steamy serendipity.
  • 00:15:18
    Like roadside attractions, bubbling mud holes
  • 00:15:21
    gurgle with molten muck.
  • 00:15:25
    Vents spew steam, and as the fog clears from your glasses,
  • 00:15:30
    suddenly you're interested in geology!
  • 00:15:35
    The entire island is shaped by lava from past eruptions.
  • 00:15:38
    Dark, chunky lava rock blanketed by cushy moss
  • 00:15:42
    covers much of Iceland's surface, giving the countryside
  • 00:15:45
    a desolate, almost lunar feel.
  • 00:15:48
    ♪
  • 00:15:51
    And the Icelanders have ingeniously harnessed
  • 00:15:54
    their endless supply of green energy.
  • 00:15:58
    Geothermal plants, in the middle of nowhere,
  • 00:16:00
    are hard at work, boring deep into the earth's crust
  • 00:16:03
    to tap into hot water.
  • 00:16:05
    And pipelines carry that super-heated water
  • 00:16:08
    through miles of countryside to heat and power
  • 00:16:11
    Reykjavík and other communities.
  • 00:16:14
    ♪
  • 00:16:17
    Despite the chill, houses are toasty.
  • 00:16:20
    In fact, you'll notice many small windows propped open.
  • 00:16:24
    Because that geothermal heat is so cheap,
  • 00:16:27
    people don't even bother turning down the radiator.
  • 00:16:30
    They just crack the window.
  • 00:16:31
    ♪
  • 00:16:33
    The most enjoyable use for Iceland's hot water
  • 00:16:36
    is its thermal pools.
  • 00:16:39
    And the most famous spa is 45 minutes outside Reykjavík:
  • 00:16:43
    The Blue Lagoon.
  • 00:16:46
    Years ago, a geothermal plant began dumping its
  • 00:16:49
    hot, mineral-rich waste water into this lava landscape.
  • 00:16:53
    Locals discovered it was a great place to take a dip.
  • 00:16:56
    Developers then transformed it into a high-end spa.
  • 00:17:00
    Today, Iceland's top tourist attraction
  • 00:17:02
    is close to the airport
  • 00:17:04
    and a popular first or last stop for visitors.
  • 00:17:09
    The Blue Lagoon is a lavish spa,
  • 00:17:11
    but it's extremely touristy
  • 00:17:13
    and you sure won't meet many Icelanders here.
  • 00:17:16
    But the good news: you have plenty of alternatives
  • 00:17:19
    that are just as relaxing-- the community thermal pools.
  • 00:17:23
    ♪
  • 00:17:30
    The Blue Lagoon is popular.
  • 00:17:32
    But it's expensive--- about 10 times the cost
  • 00:17:35
    of a pool like this.
  • 00:17:36
    You can luxuriate in the Blue Lagoon
  • 00:17:38
    or you can soak with the locals in a neighborhood pool.
  • 00:17:44
    The choice is yours. Today, I'm soakin' local.
  • 00:17:49
    Rick, voice-over: Fed by natural thermal springs,
  • 00:17:51
    the main pool is bathwater-warm.
  • 00:17:54
    Waterslides, cascades, and kids' zones
  • 00:17:56
    keep locals entertained.
  • 00:17:59
    This is where Icelanders meet up after work
  • 00:18:02
    to connect with friends and family.
  • 00:18:04
    I can't think of a better way to meet the locals.
  • 00:18:09
    And for the ultimate in relaxation,
  • 00:18:11
    hundred-degree hot pots simmer nearby.
  • 00:18:14
    Soaking together is a great equalizer.
  • 00:18:17
    Student, truck driver, doctor, and tourist--
  • 00:18:20
    everybody's equal in the pool.
  • 00:18:23
    ♪
  • 00:18:32
    Iceland is all about the great outdoors.
  • 00:18:35
    But if the weather's bad, as it often is,
  • 00:18:37
    several indoor sights here in Reykjavík
  • 00:18:39
    offer a taste of the majesty of Iceland
  • 00:18:41
    without leaving the capital city.
  • 00:18:44
    Rick, voice-over: At the edge of town is a one-stop way
  • 00:18:46
    to experience this country's top natural wonders,
  • 00:18:49
    at least virtually, under one roof--The Pearl.
  • 00:18:53
    Exhibits feature fiery volcanoes,
  • 00:18:56
    with majestic footage that gives a sense of awe,
  • 00:19:00
    birds perched precariously on towering cliffs,
  • 00:19:04
    and a 300-foot-long ice cave.
  • 00:19:09
    It's a primer on Icelandic nature,
  • 00:19:12
    especially worthwhile for those without the time or money
  • 00:19:15
    to see the real thing.
  • 00:19:18
    The most elusive natural thrill is the Aurora Borealis.
  • 00:19:22
    In summer, when it's too light to see these Northern Lights,
  • 00:19:26
    you can step into the planetarium
  • 00:19:28
    to get a sense of this fabled phenomenon.
  • 00:19:31
    But of course, there's nothing like
  • 00:19:32
    experiencing the real thing.
  • 00:19:35
    Remember, even if you come in the winter
  • 00:19:37
    solely for the Northern Lights,
  • 00:19:38
    there's no guarantees of seeing them.
  • 00:19:41
    But if you do see those ethereal lights
  • 00:19:44
    dancing in the sky, the experience
  • 00:19:46
    will stay with you for the rest of your days.
  • 00:19:49
    ♪
  • 00:19:54
    The weather's great, and from Reykjavík,
  • 00:19:56
    we're making the classic 150-mile day-trip loop:
  • 00:20:00
    the Golden Circle.
  • 00:20:02
    Within minutes, we're immersed in Iceland's iconic
  • 00:20:05
    wide-open spaces and enjoying the dramatic scenery
  • 00:20:08
    of this island's natural wonders.
  • 00:20:11
    Today, we'll see gorges, waterfalls, geysers,
  • 00:20:14
    and more, with epic views all along the way.
  • 00:20:18
    By the way, most people do this
  • 00:20:20
    as a day-trip on a tour bus.
  • 00:20:22
    But we're driving.
  • 00:20:24
    Rick, voice-over: Our first stop is Thingvellir.
  • 00:20:28
    This national park is important to Icelanders
  • 00:20:31
    for two reasons.
  • 00:20:33
    First, at this gorge, you can see the rift
  • 00:20:36
    that marks that slow separation of tectonic plates.
  • 00:20:40
    Walking along this fissure in the earth's crust,
  • 00:20:42
    travelers sense this meeting of two continents:
  • 00:20:46
    America on the left, Europe on the right.
  • 00:20:49
    And second, Thingvellir, which means "Assembly Plains,"
  • 00:20:54
    was the site of the original Althing,
  • 00:20:56
    an annual gathering of early settlers.
  • 00:21:02
    This is where the nation of Iceland was born.
  • 00:21:05
    1,000 years ago, chieftains from isolated farms
  • 00:21:08
    all over the island traveled great distances
  • 00:21:11
    to meet right here every summer and make important decisions.
  • 00:21:15
    In an age when almost no one could read or write,
  • 00:21:18
    each meeting began by reciting the memorized highlights
  • 00:21:21
    from last year's gathering.
  • 00:21:23
    Rick, voice-over: History aside, Thingvellir
  • 00:21:25
    is inviting for a nature walk.
  • 00:21:27
    In this evocative spot, waterfalls tumble
  • 00:21:30
    and the river flows as geology does its slow-motion dance.
  • 00:21:35
    ♪
  • 00:21:38
    Just up the road is a geological site
  • 00:21:41
    actually called Geysir.
  • 00:21:44
    This geothermal field-- colorful and steamy
  • 00:21:47
    with scalding water--is home to the original geyser,
  • 00:21:51
    which means "gusher" in Icelandic.
  • 00:21:55
    The site is otherworldly as pools bubble
  • 00:21:59
    and steam fills the air,
  • 00:22:01
    all with a whiff of sulfur.
  • 00:22:03
    But the big show is the central geyser.
  • 00:22:06
    ♪
  • 00:22:08
    Tourists line up, cameras poised with anticip--ation...
  • 00:22:14
    ready to capture the moment.
  • 00:22:16
    They wait... and wait...and wait.
  • 00:22:20
    Sometimes they wait so long, the weather actually improves.
  • 00:22:25
    And then, suddenly, with a gurgling belch
  • 00:22:28
    the geyser explodes...rocketing skyward and thrilling the crowd.
  • 00:22:33
    [Indistinct chatter]
  • 00:22:35
    ♪
  • 00:22:40
    As you drive the Golden Circle,
  • 00:22:42
    remember to slow down and enjoy the scenery.
  • 00:22:46
    And it's not just about the famous natural sights.
  • 00:22:50
    Along the way, you'll see slices of
  • 00:22:52
    Iceland's unique agriculture.
  • 00:22:54
    ♪
  • 00:22:56
    With its efficient greenhouses,
  • 00:22:58
    even with the lack of good topsoil
  • 00:23:00
    and its difficult weather,
  • 00:23:02
    Iceland grows plenty of tasty vegetables.
  • 00:23:06
    The climate is harsh for conventional farming.
  • 00:23:09
    But its expertise in greenhouse technology
  • 00:23:11
    and in putting geothermal energy to good use
  • 00:23:15
    yields an abundant harvest.
  • 00:23:17
    ♪
  • 00:23:22
    For lunch, we're stopping at a working farm.
  • 00:23:25
    It's clear that frugal farmers here
  • 00:23:28
    are tapping into the tourist boom.
  • 00:23:30
    This family now serves hungry sightseers.
  • 00:23:34
    The soup bar is a budget standby:
  • 00:23:38
    it's all you can slurp, with fresh-baked bread
  • 00:23:41
    and a glass of water and a cup of coffee.
  • 00:23:45
    You can finish with a farm-fresh dessert
  • 00:23:47
    with a special twist: the cows actually watch the diners
  • 00:23:52
    enjoying ice cream made from their very own milk.
  • 00:23:56
    ♪
  • 00:23:58
    For generations, this family has raised horses.
  • 00:24:02
    Horse lovers know that Iceland's local breed
  • 00:24:04
    is special.
  • 00:24:05
    Small and sturdy, these were first brought over
  • 00:24:08
    by Vikings in the Settlement Age, 1,000 years ago,
  • 00:24:12
    chosen because they could fit inside the hold of a ship,
  • 00:24:15
    yet they were strong enough to work hard once they arrived.
  • 00:24:19
    Throughout the country, you'll see these wind-blown beauties.
  • 00:24:23
    A long-established ban on importing other breeds
  • 00:24:25
    means that today's Icelandic horses are purebred and unique.
  • 00:24:30
    ♪
  • 00:24:32
    They also have a distinctive gait that thrills equestrians.
  • 00:24:36
    ♪
  • 00:24:49
    The final stop on our Golden Circle loop
  • 00:24:52
    is one of the most impressive waterfalls
  • 00:24:54
    in a country famed for waterfalls:
  • 00:24:57
    Gullfoss--the Golden Falls.
  • 00:25:00
    The churning glacial river plummets into a narrow gorge.
  • 00:25:06
    Up close, the cauldron comes with a deafening roar.
  • 00:25:10
    And even from high above,
  • 00:25:12
    visitors feel the spray, wonderstruck.
  • 00:25:16
    Gullfoss is just one of many waterfalls
  • 00:25:18
    Iceland has to offer.
  • 00:25:20
    But if you only have time to see one, this is it.
  • 00:25:24
    It's rare anywhere on earth to find such a dramatic display
  • 00:25:28
    of water and gravity.
  • 00:25:30
    ♪
  • 00:25:37
    Gullfoss is one of those places Iceland specializes in,
  • 00:25:41
    where you feel the raw power of nature.
  • 00:25:43
    It's the perfect climax to a Golden Circle day.
  • 00:25:47
    Rick, voice-over: And the final leg of the Golden Circle
  • 00:25:49
    takes us across a vast volcanic plateau.
  • 00:25:52
    From this lonely lunar landscape, we're just
  • 00:25:55
    30 minutes from downtown Reykjavík,
  • 00:25:57
    and, as it happens, it's time for dinner.
  • 00:26:01
    Eating in Iceland is expensive.
  • 00:26:03
    Thankfully, you've got a range of options,
  • 00:26:06
    from fish and chips to fine French cuisine.
  • 00:26:11
    If you're willing to pay for it, you can eat really well.
  • 00:26:14
    And tonight, we're enjoying a splurge.
  • 00:26:17
    Rick, voice-over: This trendy restaurant features
  • 00:26:18
    traditional local ingredients but with a modern twist.
  • 00:26:22
    You'll find the staples you'd expect,
  • 00:26:24
    like lamb and fish.
  • 00:26:25
    ♪
  • 00:26:28
    While the perpetual flames of the kitchen kick out
  • 00:26:30
    plenty of meat for carnivores,
  • 00:26:32
    it always has a vegetarian option.
  • 00:26:36
    I'm dining with my travel buddy and fellow
  • 00:26:38
    guidebook author Cameron Hewitt,
  • 00:26:40
    and we're starting our meal with Arctic char
  • 00:26:42
    and langoustine lava rocks, served on a lava rock.
  • 00:26:46
    Cameron: So, the inside is langoustine, which are
  • 00:26:48
    kind of like little super-- super-sized shrimp.
  • 00:26:51
    Rick: It's like it's tempura, but they...
  • 00:26:53
    Cameron: They made it look like lava rocks on lava rock.
  • 00:26:59
    Rick: Actually cooked in a lava flow.
  • 00:27:01
    Cameron: Yeah. [Laughs] Rick: That's good.
  • 00:27:03
    Cameron: Arctic char, which is kind of like--tastes like
  • 00:27:06
    salmon, sort of pink fish.
  • 00:27:07
    Has mustard seed and dill on top.
  • 00:27:10
    Rick, voice-over: If this seems fancy, it is.
  • 00:27:13
    Iceland, while expensive, is a place to invest
  • 00:27:16
    in a memorable meal.
  • 00:27:17
    Rick: It's going to cost you a fair amount anyway.
  • 00:27:19
    So, you go just a little bit more, you can have this.
  • 00:27:21
    Cameron: Yeah, that's what I think.
  • 00:27:22
    You save up and eat groceries
  • 00:27:24
    for a few days and then splurge for a meal like this.
  • 00:27:26
    Rick, voice-over: For our main course, we're having
  • 00:27:28
    some of those staples.
  • 00:27:29
    Cameron's having the salted cod
  • 00:27:31
    and I'm going for the lamb chops,
  • 00:27:33
    but with sauces and presentation
  • 00:27:35
    the Vikings wouldn't recognize.
  • 00:27:40
    Rick: I think they know many ways
  • 00:27:41
    to do cod here, I would imagine.
  • 00:27:42
    Cameron: Yeah, it's very good.
  • 00:27:44
    Rick, voice-over: To drink, I prefer something domestic--
  • 00:27:46
    and this island definitely doesn't produce any wine.
  • 00:27:49
    Instead, it's a local microbrew.
  • 00:27:52
    Finally, it's profiteroles for dessert.
  • 00:27:55
    With this, that fermented shark is a distant memory,
  • 00:27:59
    and that is certainly worth paying a premium for.
  • 00:28:06
    From here in downtown Reykjavík, we'll drive
  • 00:28:09
    800 miles all the way around Iceland's Ring Road.
  • 00:28:12
    Which highway? Highway 1, of course.
  • 00:28:15
    You can't get lost.
  • 00:28:17
    Rick, voice-over: On the first leg is Iceland's South Coast.
  • 00:28:20
    Just two hours from Reykjavík and we're already
  • 00:28:23
    deep in the thrills, chalking up the experiences
  • 00:28:25
    people visiting here dream of.
  • 00:28:29
    Driving the entire Ring Road takes about 30 hours non-stop.
  • 00:28:33
    To do it justice, you need at least 5 or 6 days.
  • 00:28:36
    You can go in either direction--
  • 00:28:38
    we're going counter-clockwise--
  • 00:28:39
    and it's summertime, so, it stays light really late.
  • 00:28:44
    Rick, voice-over: Seljalandsfoss--one of Iceland's
  • 00:28:46
    most accessible waterfalls-- is a favorite stop.
  • 00:28:49
    The water tumbles more than 200 feet
  • 00:28:52
    from cliffs high above, like a bridal veil.
  • 00:28:55
    On sunny days, the scene is like a party as everybody is
  • 00:28:59
    suddenly waterfall crazy and connoisseurs of rainbows.
  • 00:29:02
    ♪
  • 00:29:06
    Late in the day, with the setting sun,
  • 00:29:08
    everyone's a photographer.
  • 00:29:11
    A slippery trail leads up behind the cascading water
  • 00:29:14
    and back here, the energy is palpable.
  • 00:29:17
    And rain parkas get a good workout.
  • 00:29:20
    ♪
  • 00:29:27
    Here in Iceland, we experience both the power of nature
  • 00:29:30
    and the beauty of nature.
  • 00:29:33
    Rick, voice-over: This country is expert at monetizing
  • 00:29:36
    its stunning nature--making the great outdoors accessible.
  • 00:29:40
    Each morning, rugged vehicles load up with tourists
  • 00:29:43
    and head for the backcountry.
  • 00:29:47
    We've hired one of these enormous trucks
  • 00:29:49
    with a driver, eager for a thrilling experience.
  • 00:29:54
    We're heading up a remote and rocky valley called Thorsmork.
  • 00:29:58
    Even in this land of superlatives,
  • 00:30:00
    Thorsmork is one-of-a-kind.
  • 00:30:03
    Venturing far beyond where normal cars can tread,
  • 00:30:06
    it's a land of super-vehicles.
  • 00:30:09
    But it's still accessible.
  • 00:30:11
    There's even a public bus service up this remote valley.
  • 00:30:15
    All must have tires that deflate
  • 00:30:16
    with the push of a button for extra traction.
  • 00:30:21
    "Super-jeeps" and buses alike,
  • 00:30:23
    equipped with these monster tires,
  • 00:30:25
    churn through rivers of glacial melt,
  • 00:30:27
    giving all on board a tale to tell.
  • 00:30:30
    ♪
  • 00:30:33
    People come to hike.
  • 00:30:35
    Remote lodges provide simple bases.
  • 00:30:37
    Up here, nature is a great equalizer
  • 00:30:40
    as everyone is psyching up...
  • 00:30:43
    prepping to create that lifetime memory.
  • 00:30:46
    And hikers appreciate the portable footbridges.
  • 00:30:50
    They come with wheels to be repositioned each season
  • 00:30:53
    depending on where the river flows.
  • 00:30:57
    Charging deeper and deeper into the valley,
  • 00:30:59
    I keep thinking the off-road prowess of our vehicle
  • 00:31:02
    would make for a great TV ad.
  • 00:31:04
    ♪
  • 00:31:08
    Finally, after parking our super-jeep, we actually
  • 00:31:11
    work up a sweat with a short hike.
  • 00:31:15
    Feeling small in this primeval setting,
  • 00:31:17
    we're humbled at the majesty of what surrounds us.
  • 00:31:20
    ♪
  • 00:31:23
    And glaciers, reaching down from the mountains,
  • 00:31:25
    remind us of Iceland's snowcapped rooftop.
  • 00:31:30
    The black on the ice is ash. It's from volcanic eruptions.
  • 00:31:34
    Could be fresh, could be very old.
  • 00:31:37
    Rick, voice-over: Nature is dynamic here.
  • 00:31:39
    It's unpredictable. It changes without asking.
  • 00:31:43
    Savoring this moment, it occurs to me,
  • 00:31:46
    this is Europe, wilder than I've ever experienced.
  • 00:31:50
    ♪
  • 00:31:59
    Highway 1 laces together a steady parade
  • 00:32:02
    of side-tripping options.
  • 00:32:05
    Each detour comes with a convenient lesson
  • 00:32:07
    in the local history,
  • 00:32:09
    and a schematic map locating every farm,
  • 00:32:12
    place to eat or sleep,
  • 00:32:13
    and point of interest
  • 00:32:14
    on that smaller road.
  • 00:32:17
    Like any road trip, doing the Ring Road
  • 00:32:19
    requires multiple one-night stays.
  • 00:32:22
    There are plenty of accommodation options.
  • 00:32:25
    They range from big boxy hotels to pre-fab cabins,
  • 00:32:29
    tight little yurts, remote hostels, and camping.
  • 00:32:34
    Many enjoy a camper van or pitching a tent.
  • 00:32:37
    Efficient and scenic campgrounds help
  • 00:32:39
    budget travelers both save money on hotels and meals
  • 00:32:42
    and enjoy a wonderful circle of new friends.
  • 00:32:45
    ♪
  • 00:32:51
    It's been a long day of sightseeing for us.
  • 00:32:54
    Time to settle in.
  • 00:32:55
    Like with so many farms, this family is meeting
  • 00:32:58
    the new demand, housing more tourists and fewer animals.
  • 00:33:03
    The welcome is warm.
  • 00:33:05
    Rick: I'm Rick Steves.
  • 00:33:06
    Man: Hello, Mr. Steves. How are you today?
  • 00:33:08
    Rick: I'm good. It's nice to be here.
  • 00:33:10
    Rick, voice-over: The rooms are simple, but plenty comfortable.
  • 00:33:13
    ♪
  • 00:33:16
    And the views are...Icelandic.
  • 00:33:20
    ♪
  • 00:33:24
    A major stop on the Iceland grand tour
  • 00:33:26
    is the Westman Islands, just a 40-minute ferry crossing
  • 00:33:30
    from the South Coast.
  • 00:33:31
    ♪
  • 00:33:34
    While locals sit inside, tourists soak up the view
  • 00:33:37
    as we approach the craggy group of islands.
  • 00:33:40
    ♪
  • 00:33:47
    The ferry squeezes into the harbor.
  • 00:33:50
    And tucked into the shelter of the cliffs,
  • 00:33:52
    our port comes into view.
  • 00:33:55
    The Westman Islands' only town is a fishing community
  • 00:33:58
    surrounded by sea cliffs and a rugged terrain
  • 00:34:01
    shaped by eons of volcanic eruptions.
  • 00:34:05
    Sightseeing boats are dwarfed and outnumbered
  • 00:34:07
    by a fleet of fishing boats.
  • 00:34:09
    Visitors strolling the boardwalk sense how
  • 00:34:11
    fishing is big in this country,
  • 00:34:13
    and the Westman Islands fleet is the leading producer.
  • 00:34:16
    ♪
  • 00:34:18
    Main Street has most of the commerce.
  • 00:34:22
    And it leads past inviting neighborhood lanes
  • 00:34:24
    to a classic Icelandic church.
  • 00:34:27
    But the island is best known for a fiery eruption in 1973
  • 00:34:32
    when its volcano blew.
  • 00:34:34
    It was a massive event.
  • 00:34:36
    The island actually increased in size.
  • 00:34:40
    The town's Volcano Museum tells the story.
  • 00:34:45
    One frightening night, the slumbering volcano
  • 00:34:47
    above town rumbled violently to life.
  • 00:34:50
    Everyone evacuated by morning, but for months,
  • 00:34:53
    molten lava flowed, slowly creeping
  • 00:34:56
    closer and closer to the town center.
  • 00:34:59
    ♪
  • 00:35:01
    The museum's centerpiece is an actual house
  • 00:35:03
    that was completely engulfed by the lava.
  • 00:35:06
    ♪
  • 00:35:12
    50 years ago, this was an oozing wall
  • 00:35:15
    of red-hot molten lava.
  • 00:35:18
    It was a slow-motion disaster gradually consuming the town.
  • 00:35:22
    Thankfully, it stopped right here.
  • 00:35:25
    Rick, voice-over: Back at the harbor front, we're catching
  • 00:35:26
    a mini-bus tour to get a more personal take
  • 00:35:29
    on that terrifying eruption and to explore the island.
  • 00:35:33
    Local guide Ebbi was born and raised here,
  • 00:35:35
    knows the island, and is ready to roll.
  • 00:35:38
    We're driving on lava left from the 1973 eruption.
  • 00:35:43
    Ebbi: So, you know, good things, bad things
  • 00:35:46
    with this--this huge eruption like this.
  • 00:35:48
    Now, nobody died because of the eruption,
  • 00:35:50
    which is a very good thing.
  • 00:35:52
    We've gained also about 20%.
  • 00:35:54
    The island increased in size about 20%.
  • 00:35:56
    Rick: And you're more famous for tourists now.
  • 00:35:58
    Ebbi: Well, yes, it got us on the map also.
  • 00:36:01
    Underneath us are streets. 50 meters down underneath us,
  • 00:36:05
    we have streets, we have houses.
  • 00:36:06
    Actually, not far from here is my grandparents' house.
  • 00:36:10
    And right here below is one of our schools.
  • 00:36:13
    This marking here is a memorial about a house
  • 00:36:17
    underneath here from a wealthy fisherman.
  • 00:36:19
    Rick: This house was straight down?
  • 00:36:20
    Ebbi: This house right underneath us here.
  • 00:36:22
    And everywhere on this lava, we have these wooden crosses,
  • 00:36:26
    like this one here, for example.
  • 00:36:28
    This is called "Landagata."
  • 00:36:30
    One of many streets that went under.
  • 00:36:32
    Rick: So, that's the name of a street?
  • 00:36:33
    Ebbi: There's the name of the street
  • 00:36:35
    right underneath us.
  • 00:36:36
    Rick, voice-over: The town side of the lava ridge
  • 00:36:38
    has additional examples of what was lost
  • 00:36:40
    and reminders of how the entire town
  • 00:36:43
    could have been consumed by the lava flow.
  • 00:36:46
    ♪
  • 00:36:53
    With Ebbi's help, we learned about the island's
  • 00:36:55
    long Viking history and the hardships of living
  • 00:36:58
    on an isolated island so long ago here in the far north.
  • 00:37:03
    Early settlers soon learned that on such a harsh
  • 00:37:05
    volcanic island with poor farmland,
  • 00:37:08
    you have to come up with some creative ways to feed yourself.
  • 00:37:11
    Ebbi: We have never been any kind of farmers
  • 00:37:12
    because we're a volcano island, but we had to eat.
  • 00:37:16
    We have fish, plenty of fish,
  • 00:37:17
    and the only wildlife we have here are the birds.
  • 00:37:20
    So, we would eat the eggs.
  • 00:37:22
    We collected eggs because of survival.
  • 00:37:25
    Rick: The nests are on the cliff.
  • 00:37:26
    How did they harvest the eggs?
  • 00:37:28
    Ebbi: So, you will have to come down in a safety rope
  • 00:37:31
    and you learn how to collect the eggs here.
  • 00:37:33
    And we swing over to where we want to go
  • 00:37:35
    to collect the eggs, and we swing back.
  • 00:37:37
    And that is also a safety reason.
  • 00:37:40
    So, if birds are attacking you, you can swing away.
  • 00:37:44
    Rick, voice-over: We moved to another cliff to learn
  • 00:37:46
    how the tradition of egg collecting, or sprangan,
  • 00:37:50
    is passed on to the next generation.
  • 00:37:53
    Rick: Do people still know how to do this practice?
  • 00:37:55
    Ebbi: Absolutely. This is a traditional thing
  • 00:37:57
    that every local kids will learn.
  • 00:37:59
    We start at age of 8 or 9 years old.
  • 00:38:01
    Like this girl here, she's about 13 years old.
  • 00:38:04
    Both boys and girls will learn this.
  • 00:38:06
    This is a traditional thing that every local kid learns.
  • 00:38:10
    Literally, your grandfather or grandma
  • 00:38:12
    will show you literally the ropes.
  • 00:38:14
    And this is the first thing you learn
  • 00:38:16
    before you go up and collect the eggs.
  • 00:38:19
    First you learn sprangan.
  • 00:38:20
    Then you learn how to collect the eggs.
  • 00:38:22
    It's not a matter of "we have to."
  • 00:38:24
    It is a matter of not forgetting how it was,
  • 00:38:29
    how we had to collect the eggs for survival.
  • 00:38:32
    The rule is, if there are four eggs, you can take two.
  • 00:38:35
    If there are three eggs, you can take one.
  • 00:38:37
    You always leave two eggs behind
  • 00:38:39
    because we don't want to damage the bird colonies here.
  • 00:38:42
    And we've been doing this for 1,000 years.
  • 00:38:44
    Still we have all the birds here,
  • 00:38:45
    so, we must be doing something right.
  • 00:38:47
    Rick, voice-over: And as if to prove his point,
  • 00:38:48
    Ebbi takes us to a thriving puffin colony
  • 00:38:51
    popular with birders and tourists alike.
  • 00:38:54
    Ebbi: So, this location here
  • 00:38:55
    is the biggest puffin colony in the world.
  • 00:38:58
    Now, people come here to see the puffins, of course.
  • 00:39:01
    The puffins, they live in the ocean for eight months.
  • 00:39:04
    And they're only here during the summer
  • 00:39:06
    just to do that one thing.
  • 00:39:07
    And that is to make that
  • 00:39:08
    one egg a year that they make.
  • 00:39:10
    They make one egg per year, per couple.
  • 00:39:13
    Now, the...half of the colony is right now underneath here.
  • 00:39:17
    There are thousands of birds
  • 00:39:19
    sitting, taking care of the egg.
  • 00:39:21
    Right now. Underneath us right now.
  • 00:39:23
    Rick: Under us. Ebbi: Underneath us.
  • 00:39:24
    Everywhere is a burrow where they've digged in
  • 00:39:27
    and they have this, like an apartment, kind of.
  • 00:39:30
    And half of the colony is outside
  • 00:39:33
    and out in the ocean getting fish,
  • 00:39:35
    and the other half is taking care of the eggs.
  • 00:39:39
    And people all around the world
  • 00:39:41
    come to see the puffins, of course.
  • 00:39:44
    And they come here.
  • 00:39:45
    ♪
  • 00:39:52
    Rick, voice-over: Back on the mainland, we're continuing
  • 00:39:54
    around the Ring Road.
  • 00:39:55
    And there're lots more dramatic natural sights.
  • 00:40:00
    From this rugged promontory, on a clear day,
  • 00:40:02
    you can see virtually the entire South Coast.
  • 00:40:05
    ♪
  • 00:40:09
    And just below is one of this volcanic island's
  • 00:40:12
    many black sand beaches.
  • 00:40:14
    Travelers are enthralled by this fantastical landscape.
  • 00:40:17
    ♪
  • 00:40:19
    Sea stacks rise out of the briny waves.
  • 00:40:24
    Basalt formations bring out the kid in every adventurer.
  • 00:40:27
    ♪
  • 00:40:31
    A windy walk immersed in this pristine beauty
  • 00:40:34
    can be unforgettable.
  • 00:40:37
    Marking the end of the South Coast,
  • 00:40:39
    the village of Vík is the southernmost
  • 00:40:42
    settlement in Iceland.
  • 00:40:43
    Vik is both humble and sparse-- little more
  • 00:40:46
    than a practical pit stop for travelers.
  • 00:40:49
    And for this village, that's nothing new.
  • 00:40:52
    Historically, there was no harbor.
  • 00:40:55
    A century ago, before the arrival of the road,
  • 00:40:57
    provisions came in by boats beached on this shore.
  • 00:41:02
    What we've done so far, with Cameron Hewitt,
  • 00:41:04
    who co-authors guidebooks with me, is all within
  • 00:41:07
    day-tripping distance from Reykjavík.
  • 00:41:12
    Rick: Reykjavík is 3 hours that way, or 6 days that way.
  • 00:41:16
    I'm heading straight back to work on the book.
  • 00:41:18
    But we'll follow Cameron and the crew
  • 00:41:21
    as he does his research the long way around.
  • 00:41:24
    We'll meet up back in Reykjavík.
  • 00:41:28
    Rick, voice-over: Leaving Vík, the traffic thins out
  • 00:41:31
    and the landscape opens up.
  • 00:41:34
    We've just left Rick in Vík, and now we're
  • 00:41:36
    continuing around the Ring Road.
  • 00:41:38
    And, you know, already the terrain is changing
  • 00:41:40
    and the weather is changing.
  • 00:41:41
    In fact, Iceland is always changing.
  • 00:41:43
    That's why it's so important for us to go and travel
  • 00:41:45
    in person to update our guidebooks to make sure
  • 00:41:47
    we have the very latest information.
  • 00:41:50
    Rick, voice-over: The next stop is glacier country.
  • 00:41:52
    1/10 of Iceland is covered in glaciers, and the biggest one
  • 00:41:56
    spreads across the top of these mountains.
  • 00:41:59
    Its many outlets--called tongues--reach down
  • 00:42:02
    and lap at lowland valleys.
  • 00:42:05
    The road crosses vast plains of glacial grit and gravel,
  • 00:42:09
    laced with milky rivers.
  • 00:42:11
    ♪
  • 00:42:13
    At the foot of some glaciers are lagoons
  • 00:42:16
    bobbing with small icebergs that have broken off.
  • 00:42:19
    Lagoon cruises take tourists out on these
  • 00:42:22
    moody and beautiful waters.
  • 00:42:24
    ♪
  • 00:42:28
    Passengers gear up in heavy jackets
  • 00:42:31
    and prepare for the adventure.
  • 00:42:34
    They climb into inflatable boats and then
  • 00:42:36
    float through this dreamy landscape.
  • 00:42:40
    It's an unforgettable experience,
  • 00:42:42
    no matter the weather.
  • 00:42:44
    Our enthusiastic guide offers
  • 00:42:46
    a lesson in glaciers 101.
  • 00:42:48
    Man: Then, of course, there's the white ice and the blue ice.
  • 00:42:52
    Rick, voice-over: He explains how and why
  • 00:42:54
    there are different colors of ice.
  • 00:42:56
    There's black ice, which is coated with
  • 00:42:58
    dirt or volcanic ash.
  • 00:43:00
    Then there's white ice, which is packed with air bubbles.
  • 00:43:04
    Transparent ice has fewer air bubbles.
  • 00:43:07
    And then blue ice, which is highly compressed and dense,
  • 00:43:10
    has no air bubbles at all,
  • 00:43:11
    and reflects blue light intensely.
  • 00:43:15
    Travelers get the chance to hold a chunk of ice
  • 00:43:17
    that originally fell as snow...500 years ago.
  • 00:43:22
    The guide explains how glaciers naturally grow and recede.
  • 00:43:26
    In fact, this glacier used to extend
  • 00:43:27
    all the way across the lagoon at the end of the 19th century
  • 00:43:31
    but has been retreating now for over 130 years.
  • 00:43:35
    Man: It is absolutely natural, absolutely normal that at
  • 00:43:37
    some points, the glaciers are growing.
  • 00:43:39
    At some point, the glaciers are retreating.
  • 00:43:41
    But now the glaciers are retreating
  • 00:43:43
    way, way faster because of global warming.
  • 00:43:46
    Rick, voice-over: Even from the shore, people marvel
  • 00:43:48
    at how glacial ice comes in a stunning variety of
  • 00:43:51
    shapes, sizes, and colors.
  • 00:43:55
    The wind pushes the icebergs into a traffic jam
  • 00:43:58
    where the lagoon meets the Atlantic.
  • 00:44:00
    Birds and seals feed in the swirling waters
  • 00:44:03
    as the icebergs wait for their final journey out to sea.
  • 00:44:07
    When conditions are right, chunks of ice wash up
  • 00:44:10
    on the nearby black-sand beach.
  • 00:44:13
    Nicknamed "Diamond Beach," it looks like
  • 00:44:15
    thousands of gigantic gems scattered over black velvet.
  • 00:44:24
    Leaving the glaciers behind, the Ring Road
  • 00:44:26
    hugs the wild coastline.
  • 00:44:28
    The churning North Atlantic surf crashes
  • 00:44:30
    on deserted beaches and rocky shores.
  • 00:44:34
    Soon, yawning bays grow narrower,
  • 00:44:36
    becoming the serene fjords that slice
  • 00:44:39
    deep into the east coast of Iceland.
  • 00:44:42
    Driving along the Eastfjords is long and slow,
  • 00:44:45
    but always scenic.
  • 00:44:47
    ♪
  • 00:44:49
    And around each bend unfolds one grand fjord after another.
  • 00:44:56
    Tucked away at the deepest point in one fjord
  • 00:44:59
    is the colorful village of Seydisfjordur.
  • 00:45:03
    This charming place is a magnet for young artists
  • 00:45:06
    who appreciate its majestic setting,
  • 00:45:08
    vibrant murals, and trendy places to eat and drink.
  • 00:45:13
    ♪
  • 00:45:16
    It's a welcome pocket of quirky creativity
  • 00:45:19
    in this very remote corner.
  • 00:45:21
    ♪
  • 00:45:29
    Leaving the fjords and turning inland, the road crosses
  • 00:45:32
    the vast and arid Highlands.
  • 00:45:35
    Tucked away in these rocky folds
  • 00:45:37
    is another iconic waterfall.
  • 00:45:41
    Arriving at what looks like just a desolate
  • 00:45:43
    volcanic landscape, if you follow the trail,
  • 00:45:46
    you'll hear the thundering falls before you see them.
  • 00:45:49
    [Water rushing]
  • 00:45:51
    Dettifoss is this country's most powerful waterfall...
  • 00:45:54
    ♪
  • 00:45:58
    with 50,000 gallons of water every second
  • 00:46:02
    tumbling through an awe-inspiring gorge
  • 00:46:04
    of basalt cliffs.
  • 00:46:06
    ♪
  • 00:46:10
    The falls fill the air with mist and rainbows...
  • 00:46:13
    ♪
  • 00:46:15
    and fill visitors with an appreciation
  • 00:46:18
    for the grandeur of Icelandic nature.
  • 00:46:25
    Continuing west, the barren plateau
  • 00:46:27
    gives way to the green oasis of Lake Myvatn.
  • 00:46:31
    ♪
  • 00:46:34
    Ringing the lake is a wide variety
  • 00:46:36
    of volcanic landscapes.
  • 00:46:38
    Compact and accessible, Myvatn feels like
  • 00:46:41
    Iceland's Yellowstone.
  • 00:46:43
    ♪
  • 00:46:45
    Along the lakeshore, these "pseudo-craters"
  • 00:46:48
    are giant burst bubbles of molten rock...stopped in time.
  • 00:46:53
    At these pinnacles of lava-- called the "Dark Castles"--
  • 00:46:57
    families and hikers love exploring a maze of trails
  • 00:47:01
    between fanciful landforms.
  • 00:47:03
    ♪
  • 00:47:06
    And looming over the lakeshore is a perfect
  • 00:47:10
    volcanic ash crater.
  • 00:47:13
    Bizarrely beautiful, like visiting a moonscape,
  • 00:47:16
    it's one more indelible memory
  • 00:47:18
    that comes with driving the Ring Road.
  • 00:47:22
    Nearby, the geothermal activity keeps on simmering.
  • 00:47:27
    Visitors wander through this mind-bending,
  • 00:47:29
    almost Martian landscape.
  • 00:47:32
    Mud puddles bubble and steam.
  • 00:47:36
    Fumaroles hiss like teakettles.
  • 00:47:38
    ♪
  • 00:47:41
    The terrain is brushed in vivid colors.
  • 00:47:44
    And everything reeks of sulfur.
  • 00:47:48
    ♪
  • 00:48:04
    You know, when you come to a place
  • 00:48:06
    as unusual as this, the real challenge
  • 00:48:07
    for a travel writer is figuring out
  • 00:48:09
    how to capture the sort of sense of awe and wonder,
  • 00:48:12
    and the essence of a place, and then
  • 00:48:13
    translate that into words.
  • 00:48:16
    Rick, voice-over: Nearby geothermal plants harness
  • 00:48:18
    all this volcanic power for heating
  • 00:48:20
    and to generate electricity...
  • 00:48:22
    and even here in the far north,
  • 00:48:23
    Icelanders use their endless hot water just for fun.
  • 00:48:28
    The Myvatn Nature Baths, overlooking the steamy
  • 00:48:31
    volcanic landscape, are a popular place to unwind
  • 00:48:35
    in warm water tinted with natural minerals.
  • 00:48:43
    The landscape changes again up along the north coast.
  • 00:48:49
    The Ring Road itself is a scenic spine around Iceland,
  • 00:48:51
    but if you just stick to Highway 1,
  • 00:48:53
    there's a lot you might miss.
  • 00:48:55
    That's why, if you have a good guidebook,
  • 00:48:56
    you'll know which of the side trips and detours
  • 00:48:58
    are most worth the extra miles.
  • 00:49:02
    Rick, voice-over: And one of those is Húsavík,
  • 00:49:04
    with its salty and picturesque harbor on a protected bay,
  • 00:49:08
    and a proud fishing heritage.
  • 00:49:10
    ♪
  • 00:49:12
    Today, a stop here educates visitors
  • 00:49:15
    about Iceland's whales.
  • 00:49:18
    The Húsavík Whale Museum displays the bones of whales
  • 00:49:21
    that have washed ashore from around the island.
  • 00:49:24
    ♪
  • 00:49:27
    The lovingly displayed skeletons teach visitors
  • 00:49:29
    about these magnificent mammals.
  • 00:49:31
    ♪
  • 00:49:35
    The star of the show-- an 80-foot-long blue whale,
  • 00:49:38
    with a rib cage as big as a truck.
  • 00:49:44
    For a chance to watch living whales, out at the harbor,
  • 00:49:47
    visitors choose between classic fishing boats
  • 00:49:50
    or--for a little more adventure--
  • 00:49:52
    high-speed inflatables.
  • 00:49:55
    Whale watchers suit up and prepare for the journey.
  • 00:49:59
    Tourists climb on board, excited for the possibility
  • 00:50:02
    of a close encounter with a gentle giant.
  • 00:50:06
    If they're lucky, they may come home with happy memories
  • 00:50:09
    of breaching humpbacks and curious orcas.
  • 00:50:12
    ♪
  • 00:50:38
    Continuing across Iceland's north,
  • 00:50:41
    the coastal road curls around the Troll Peninsula,
  • 00:50:44
    with sweeping vistas toward the Arctic Circle.
  • 00:50:49
    At the tip of the Troll Peninsula
  • 00:50:51
    sits the historic fishing town of Siglufjordur.
  • 00:50:54
    The mountains at the mouth of the fjord
  • 00:50:56
    protect the little harbor.
  • 00:50:57
    And behind it is an endearing museum
  • 00:51:00
    that tells the story of how, around 1900,
  • 00:51:03
    this became a boom town for herring.
  • 00:51:06
    Visitors learn how these tough, little boats
  • 00:51:09
    caught mountains of herring--
  • 00:51:10
    a nutritious and highly prized food.
  • 00:51:13
    This herring harvest powered Iceland's fledgling economy
  • 00:51:16
    through the first half of the 20th century.
  • 00:51:19
    Cameron's learning more about the story
  • 00:51:21
    from local guide Edda.
  • 00:51:23
    Cameron: Tell me, why is it in this town, why herring?
  • 00:51:25
    What's special about herring to this town?
  • 00:51:27
    Edda: So, the herring industry was, for the longest time,
  • 00:51:30
    one of the biggest industries in the country,
  • 00:51:32
    for the most part of the 20th century.
  • 00:51:34
    And for the longest time, this town had
  • 00:51:36
    the biggest herring port in Iceland.
  • 00:51:38
    And we often refer to this as the capital of the herring.
  • 00:51:41
    So, we are located in front of a salting station,
  • 00:51:44
    and from 1907 until 1968, herring was salted here.
  • 00:51:48
    We had the women, the herring girls, salting and packing
  • 00:51:51
    the herring into the barrels.
  • 00:51:52
    Cameron: And so, this, this table here
  • 00:51:53
    is exactly where that happened.
  • 00:51:55
    Edda: Yeah. So, this is what
  • 00:51:56
    we call the herring box.
  • 00:51:57
    And the fishermen coming into the fjord
  • 00:51:59
    would start by unloading the herring into those boxes,
  • 00:52:01
    and then they would call out the herring girls for work,
  • 00:52:05
    and they would take one herring at a time,
  • 00:52:07
    cutting the head off and pulling the guts out.
  • 00:52:09
    And then they would place the herring in here.
  • 00:52:11
    They would do this until they had
  • 00:52:13
    almost filled this container.
  • 00:52:14
    Then, in here, they would mix it with the salt
  • 00:52:17
    and then finally stack it into the barrels.
  • 00:52:20
    So, this is where the herring girls would live.
  • 00:52:22
    The women that would come from all the places in Iceland
  • 00:52:24
    just to work here at this particular salting station.
  • 00:52:27
    This would be an example of their bedrooms.
  • 00:52:29
    Cameron: OK. How many herring girls
  • 00:52:31
    would live in a room about this size?
  • 00:52:32
    Edda: So, there could be up to 50 women
  • 00:52:34
    living in all this, the whole building.
  • 00:52:36
    But at the busiest years, they would have to
  • 00:52:38
    share the beds, two to a bed.
  • 00:52:40
    So, there could be up to 12 women
  • 00:52:41
    living in a room this size.
  • 00:52:44
    Cameron: Tell me about their working hours.
  • 00:52:46
    Edda: When there was herring to be salted,
  • 00:52:47
    they need to be outside working.
  • 00:52:49
    And so, that meant that they could be
  • 00:52:50
    working very long shifts.
  • 00:52:53
    So, it could be 20-hour shifts,
  • 00:52:56
    and one herring girl we interviewed,
  • 00:52:57
    she said that her longer shift by the herring box
  • 00:53:00
    was 34 hours straight.
  • 00:53:02
    Rick, voice-over: It's inspiring to see
  • 00:53:03
    the thoughtful ways Iceland preserves
  • 00:53:05
    and celebrates its unique heritage.
  • 00:53:11
    Finishing the loop and leaving the coast behind,
  • 00:53:14
    the road swings to the south.
  • 00:53:15
    Along the way is another artifact
  • 00:53:18
    of this country's rugged history.
  • 00:53:20
    ♪
  • 00:53:22
    In this land where trees are scarce,
  • 00:53:24
    houses were made out of sod.
  • 00:53:27
    Glaumbaer is a perfectly preserved turf house
  • 00:53:30
    dating back centuries.
  • 00:53:32
    ♪
  • 00:53:35
    The grassy roof waves in the wind
  • 00:53:37
    as visitors admire the sturdy herringbone pattern
  • 00:53:40
    of the stacked-sod walls.
  • 00:53:43
    Inside, an earthen corridor connects several rooms.
  • 00:53:47
    Food was stored in wooden barrels.
  • 00:53:50
    In the kitchen, meals were cooked over a sheep dung fire.
  • 00:53:55
    The farmer's family had a spacious bedroom
  • 00:53:58
    all to themselves.
  • 00:54:01
    But the farmhands bunked in a communal living room.
  • 00:54:05
    Workers slept two to a bed, tucked in by a wooden panel
  • 00:54:09
    carved with prayers.
  • 00:54:11
    Women, who did the delicate spinning work, got the bunks
  • 00:54:14
    near the windows for the better light.
  • 00:54:18
    People still lived here until 1947.
  • 00:54:22
    Modern as Iceland is today, many grandparents remember
  • 00:54:26
    growing up in houses like these.
  • 00:54:27
    ♪
  • 00:54:31
    As the Ring Road winds its way back toward Reykjavík,
  • 00:54:34
    there's time for one last scenic detour.
  • 00:54:37
    ♪
  • 00:54:39
    A drive around the Snaefellsnes peninsula
  • 00:54:41
    offers a wrap-up of Iceland's dramatic natural wonders:
  • 00:54:45
    Iconic peaks, sheltered fjords, frisky horses,
  • 00:54:52
    glacier-topped mountains, swirling sea birds,
  • 00:54:56
    climbable craters, and abundant waterfalls.
  • 00:55:01
    ♪
  • 00:55:05
    In short, it's a microcosm of all the unique forms of nature
  • 00:55:09
    that Iceland is famous for.
  • 00:55:11
    This encore of Icelandic splendor
  • 00:55:14
    caps one of Europe's great road trips.
  • 00:55:16
    ♪
  • 00:55:19
    After 800 miles, the crew meets back up with me
  • 00:55:22
    where we started--in Reykjavík.
  • 00:55:29
    Rick: Iceland may be a small country with a small population.
  • 00:55:32
    Cameron: But it comes with a powerful sightseeing punch.
  • 00:55:35
    Rick: I'm Rick Steves. Cameron: And I'm Cameron Hewitt.
  • 00:55:37
    Rick: Thanks for joining us.
  • 00:55:38
    Until next time, keep on traveling!
  • 00:55:42
    Rick: Tell me a tongue twister in Icelandic.
  • 00:55:44
    Saga: Ah. [Speaking Icelandic]
  • 00:55:47
    Rick: What does that mean? Saga: It's a town.
  • 00:55:49
    You know, as more and more people discover
  • 00:55:51
    this beautiful place, it's really more important--
  • 00:55:54
    than--sorry, there's a fly right on my glasses.
  • 00:55:56
    He was literally--[Laughs]
  • 00:55:59
    You better not be rolling with this hat on.
  • 00:56:01
    [Man laughs] Man 2: [Indistinct]
  • 00:56:03
    Rick: There's a blooper.
  • 00:56:04
    ♪
  • 00:56:15
    ♪
الوسوم
  • Iceland
  • Reykjavík
  • Golden Circle
  • Ring Road
  • waterfalls
  • geothermal energy
  • street art
  • Icelandic culture
  • wildlife
  • food