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Over the last 10 years, I've tried
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almost every budgeting method you can
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think of, from old school pen and paper
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to slick zerobased budgeting apps. And
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here is what I discovered. The best
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money system is not the fanciest. It's
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the one that you'll simply stick with
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and that strikes the perfect balance
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between planning for the future while
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still enjoying today. So, in this video,
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I thought it'd be interesting to share
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with you a simple three-phase framework
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that helped me take full control of my
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finances without the overwhelm, and more
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importantly, how you can use it to do
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the same. We'll first map your money
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flow. Then, we'll allocate your spending
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bucket, and finally, we'll reflect and
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improve. If you'd like to follow along
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using the same tracker that I use, it's
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completely free. It's linked in the
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description below. You can even fill it
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out as you watch and go through it with
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me step by step. Let's get into it. So,
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here's how I split up my finances.
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Income goes to the left. Your three
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spending buckets are front and center.
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And up the top, there's a dashboard that
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shows you exactly where you stand. And
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it's colorcoded. So, it will flag up red
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if there's something that requires your
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focus and attention. I'll explain that
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all in just a moment. So, let's start
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with phase one. Map your money flow.
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First things first, you need to know
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exactly how much money you're working
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with each month. This is your take-home
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pay and it's the amount that hits your
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bank account after all state taxes have
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been paid. Then you put in the number
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after taxes within here. So let's say
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you have a day job, any side hustles or
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freelancing payments, weekend gigs,
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investment dividends, all of that, all
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the money that comes into your life goes
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here. We're going to work our way
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through an example. So let's say my day
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job brings in 2350 a month. That is the
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number I'm going to put in here. One
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thing to note, if you are contributing
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to your employer workplace sponsored
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plan, say if you're contributing 150 a
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month towards it, that amount actually
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goes back towards your take home pay on
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your paycheck. It will look like it's
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deducted, but you want to add that in.
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Why? Because that contribution is going
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towards your future self, which will
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categorize properly in the future U
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bucket. So, that 2350 I have right here,
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that includes my take-home pay and the
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amount that I usually put towards my
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workplace retirement account. Then,
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let's say I'm doing some freelancing on
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the side, that adds up to 150. And let's
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say I'm also got another side hustle,
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which is 100. So, all of that is in my
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income section. And then I will
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calculate the total right here, which is
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2,600. If you are a freelancer or you're
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self-employed, this is a bit different.
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It's not the number that hits your bank
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account because that number hasn't been
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taxed yet. So, the number that you put
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in here is the number after you've
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calculated and deducted taxes yourself.
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It's your net income. This is important
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because you don't want to build an
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entire budget on money that isn't
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actually yours to spend. Phase two is
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now to fill in the three Fs. Your
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take-home pay, you want to categorize
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into these three buckets. The
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fundamentals covers the amounts that you
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spend on your running living costs. So
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this includes things like housing,
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transportation, food, insurance, minimum
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debt payments. The fund bucket is where
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you categorize the amount you spend on
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things that make life a little bit more
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enjoyable. So dining out, entertainment,
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hobbies, and the future you, that's
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everything that you're investing towards
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your future. So you've got savings,
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investments, debt payments above the
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minimums. And how much should you be
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allocating in terms of percentages
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towards these buckets? You've probably
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heard of the 50 3020 split. 50% of your
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take-home pay should be allocated for
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your fundamentals. 30% of your take-home
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pay for fun and 20% for future you. This
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is a decent starting point and it's what
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I'm going to use purely for illustrative
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purposes, but it was created in 2005
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during a different economic landscape
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when housing was cheaper, prices were
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lower. Today's reality might look more
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like 65205
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or even 702010
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depending on where you live. So now
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let's allocate that 2,600 into one of
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these three buckets. We want to make
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sure every single pound or dollar has
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got a job when it comes to this tracker.
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So let's start with the fundamentals.
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I've already listed out some popular
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categories within this. So housing, rent
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or mortgage, utilities, water, gas,
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electricity, transportation. So this
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includes things like your car payments,
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your train tickets for work or any other
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transportation costs, groceries,
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insurance, and also minimum debt
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payments. What you want to do is you
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want to go through your bank statements
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from the last 3 to 6 months. Most
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banking apps actually categorize your
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spending automatically, which makes life
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a lot easier when you're filling this
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in. Maybe utilities will show up in one
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line as 170, and then you can put that
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number in here as one line, or you can
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enter it in and break it down into
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separate line. an item. So maybe it's 45
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for electricity or 45 85 and let's say
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40. Whatever feels more useful for you,
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it's up to you. So let's say your rent
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is 950, utilities 120, groceries 220,
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transport 75, phone 20, insurance 45,
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minimum debt payments 80. By the end of
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the month, I know I've spent 1,510
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towards my fundamental living expenses,
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which as you can see up here is 58% of
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my take-home pay. And that text has
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turned red. So, it's telling me that
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I've overspent. I've gone over my
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target. My target was 50%. And you can
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see again here that is because I've
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overspent by 210. What do we do with
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this information? I'll show you later on
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in phase three when we're doing the
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reflections. Now, a quick tip here. You
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want to automate as much as your
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fundamental expenses as you can. Direct
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debits for utilities, automatic rent
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payments if that's possible, standing
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orders. The less mental energy you spend
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on manual transfers, the more mental
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energy you have for the bigger important
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financial decisions. Next up, we have
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future you. And I deliberately moved
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this before the fun bucket because
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paying yourself first changes
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everything. If you budget for your fund
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category and you start spending on your
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fund before saving and investing, you're
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going to find that the money slips
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through your fingers very quickly. But
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if you put yourself first and you say,
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"Okay, this is the amount I'm allocating
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towards my future." Then it's a lot
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easier to then structure your finances
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to last the end of the month and it
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feels a lot less restrictive. So this
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category includes things like investment
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accounts, emergency fund, saving for
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specific goals like house deposit, card
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deposit, extra debt payments above your
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minimums, and if you are not sure about
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where you should be allocating your
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money when it comes to future U. I also
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have a video right here which tells you
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the order of priorities when it comes to
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extra savings that you have and where
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they should be going. So let's continue
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with our example. We've put 130 into a
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tax reinvestment account, 100 towards a
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house deposit fund, and I've added the
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workplace retirement contribution back
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here. So, remember at the start we had
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our take-home pay, and I mentioned that
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we have to add back in our contributions
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towards our retirement account so that
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we can allocate it properly. I've now
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put in that number here. So, workplace
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retirement account has 150. And this is
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important because sometimes it feels
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like you're not making any progress and
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you're not actually saving or investing
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anything because it's invisible because
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you're already doing it and that money
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is being taken away before it hits your
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bank account. So, this really gives you
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a clear overview and picture on exactly
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where all your finances are going. This
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brings the total to 380 or about 15% of
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my take-home pay. That's below the goal
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that I had initially set. My goal was to
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save 20% of my take-home pay. This
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month, I've only saved 15%. So, it's
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also red telling me it's an area that I
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need to look into. Again, we'll talk
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about that and how to improve that in
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phase three. Another quick tip here, you
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want to use as much as possible separate
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accounts for your different goals that
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you're saving for. So, you can have a
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house fund, a car fund, an emergency
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fund, and you want to keep them really
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distinct because there's something very
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powerful about logging in and seeing
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exactly how close you are to each
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target. If you are saving 240 a month
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for a 20,000 house deposit, you can see
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very quickly how far you are and how in
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this case you could hit your goal in
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just under 7 years. The future you
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section also works in reverse color
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coding. So it turns red if you're not
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saving enough relative to your goal. And
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then finally, you have the fun and this
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covers everything that's optional but
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makes life fun. So, subscriptions like
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Netflix and Spotify, eating out,
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entertainment, hobbies, travel, and
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upgrade choices. So, what do I mean by
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upgrade choices? This is things like
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taking an Uber over getting the bus or
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buying a premium brand of food rather
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than the regular one. They're not wrong
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decisions at all, but they are choices.
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They're choices to upgrade something.
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So, you want to own them as such. So in
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our example, you've got 780 available or
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left over to spend on fund now, which is
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the remaining amount left over after
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you've allocated for your fundamental
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expenses after you've paid yourself
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first. And now this is what you could
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truly enjoy with what's left over. So
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here is an example of a breakdown.
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Eating out 240, gym membership 35,
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subscriptions 25, entertainment 65,
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shopping 60, coffee and treats 50, and
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then you got miscellaneous as well. We
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can see once we've allocated all of our
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spending for the month that our goal
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right here was to spend 30% of our
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take-home pay on fun. We were actually
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spending a little bit less. We're
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spending 27% which is less than our
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goal. And this isn't always a good
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thing. So, enter phase three and that is
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the reflections part. And this is where
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the magic really happens. And it's
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arguably the most important part of
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being good with money. You don't want to
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just fill in your numbers every month
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and then just forget about it and think
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you've got the job done. The aim is to
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spend at least 15 minutes just
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reflecting on your numbers. You could do
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it on the last Sunday of the month with
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a cup of coffee. Make it a ritual for
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yourself. Make it fun. What you want to
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do is take a look at your numbers. Look
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at the bits that specifically have
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flagged up and see how you can improve
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for the months ahead. That's the aim,
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just to keep getting better. So, I have
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a few questions that you could ask
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yourself when reflecting on your month
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spending. First, did you overspend?
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Where did you overspend? If you
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overspent in the fun category, what
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caused that overspending? This isn't
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about being hard on yourself, especially
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in the first month that you do it. It's
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just about understanding patterns. Maybe
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you overspend on getting takeouts
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because you're always getting home late
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after work or you were stressed or you
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didn't have time to cook. In that case,
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how can you pre-plan for something like
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that? Or maybe your fund budget went
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over because you had more social plans
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than you had expected for. But just
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knowing this, having self-awareness when
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it comes to your spending patterns,
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understanding why you're doing something
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will help you make better decisions next
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time. Second, how can you reduce your
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fundamental living spending? This is one
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of the hardest areas to reduce, but it's
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also the area where you can save the
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most if you are optimizing it. So, think
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about negotiating your bills, comparing
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other providers and deals in the market,
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making sure you are getting the most
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value for what you are paying. What I
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like to ask myself as I go through the
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categories in the fundamentals bucket is
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firstly do I need it? Is it really a
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need? Secondly, if I do need it, can I
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live with less of it? And third, if I do
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need it, can I get the same thing for
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less? And finally, maybe your fund
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spending is consistently low, but your
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savings and investments are really high.
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Take a step back. If this is aligned to
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what you want, by all means, you're
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doing great. But if you feel like you're
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restricting yourself, maybe you're
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really not spending for the present
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moment. You're so focused on the long
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term that you might actually be letting
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the here and now pass you by. Take a
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holistic view of your finances and your
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life path and see if there is something
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you want to do now that you are holding
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back on. Some opportunities are time
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bound and you don't want to look back
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and think you were so focused on the
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future that you completely miss the
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present. Good money management is really
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balancing the art of investing and
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planning for your future, but also
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spending in a way that doesn't make you
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regret the here and now. So, that's it.
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That is my three-phase money flow.
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Remember, if you want to use the same
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tracker that I used in this video, it's
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completely free and it's linked in the
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description below. Give it a try this
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month and let me know how it works for
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you. I love hearing about your financial
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wins, your challenges, and I'm reading
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every single comment below this video.
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Thank you so much for watching. If you
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want to take everything from this video
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and take it one step further, I've got a
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perfect video for you. It's called
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Financial Literacy in 54 Minutes. I'll
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put it up here. It's my most complete
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nofluff guide to mastering your money. I
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hope to see you there.