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SUBTITLE: Hessischer Rundfunk
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* Music *
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Colourful, cosmopolitan, passionate.
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* Music *
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Creative, loud, confident.
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* Music *
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Israel: A country full of diversity and contrasts.
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* Music *
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Discover Israel on your own. Is the? Is that safe enough?
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Our first stop is Tel Aviv, the city that never sleeps.
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Broadway is called Rothschild Boulevard here.
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* Sirens *
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Moments of shock can be experienced here all the time.
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But you get carried away surprisingly quickly
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by the laid-back attitude of the Tel Aviv people.
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*soft music*
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Young Tel Aviv's first boulevard
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was built on desert sand 100 years ago.
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The traditional kiosks are still there.
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You are a cult.
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Here the coffee tastes good day and night.
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Measured by the number of inhabitants, Tel Aviv has the highest
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proportion of e-bikes and scooters in the world.
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That can be annoying. The Israeli has grown together with his electric vehicle.
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Fast, loud, glaring.
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It's best to just join in.
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Bike rental Pole Position turns tourists into real Tel Avivers.
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Company motto: always stay cool.
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Contrary to our image, Tel Aviv is
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one of the safest cities in the world to visit.
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No question, we always have problems in the city.
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But we have a low crime rate.
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You can feel safe here, no matter where and when.
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Understood? Then it starts.
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Head north, always along the beach.
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* Music *
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Biking is very popular in Tel Aviv.
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We have over 120 kilometers of cycle paths.
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It's the best way to get to know the city.
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* soft music *
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Jews and non-Jews, religious or secular, gay or non-gay.
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Everything is always under tension here.
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Tel Aviv is open and liberal.
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This beach is a good example of that.
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The beach with the colorful umbrellas is the gay beach.
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Fridays are the best parties here.
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Opposite you can see the beach with the privacy fence.
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This is the beach for the Orthodox, i.e. the pious Jews.
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On this beach there are clear times for men and women
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because they are not allowed to swim together.
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That's funny: gay and religious right across the street.
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The dog beach was built right in between.
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This is very symbolic for our city.
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Of course , on Shabbat, our rest day, the religious
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do not go to the beach.
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The beach is then empty and open to everyone.
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Tel Aviv city beach is one for everyone and everything.
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14 kilometers long, with many different sections,
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calm, tolerant, full of joie de vivre and informality.
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For architecture fans, Tel Aviv is a feast for the eyes.
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Berlin, Paris or Rome:
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this house could be anywhere.
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Tel Aviv is European and imaginative.
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Built in 1921, the first shopping center in the city,
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including a lift, has become an absolute in-café 100 years later.
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The "Herzl 16" is a small paradise
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in the middle of the hectic Mediterranean metropolis.
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Several 1000 houses in the Bauhaus or international style
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are at home in Tel Aviv.
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The largest collection of these buildings in the world.
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European Jews who emigrated to Israel during the Nazi era
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significantly shaped the style of the city.
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Tel Aviv is booming.
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Housing prices are comparable to New York.
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Real estate bargains haven't been here for a long time.
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Especially not in hip neighborhoods like Neve Tzedek,
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the founding quarter of the city.
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An urban idyll whose ramshackle charm
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was awakened and kissed dearly by investors after a long slumber.
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Jewelry stores, delicatessens, galleries.
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The perfect place for an ice cream parlor, thought Anita.
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Not Italian, but genuine Israeli.
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She took the full risk with her founding idea.
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150 types of ice cream, freshly produced and handmade every day.
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People in Israel like to think big.
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Maybe because the country is so small.
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There are offshoots of Anita in Australia and soon in New York.
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Anita started very small.
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That's what store manager Joseph tells us.
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She experimented with jams and cakes in her kitchen.
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Together with her son, she came up with the idea of ice cream.
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The two went to the market every Friday
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and sold their products.
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Everyone said: You absolutely must open a business.
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The shop here is now a real institution.
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And always packed, even if the ice cream prices are pretty high.
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Welcome Germany! We look forward to seeing you here soon.
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Try our many ice cream flavors as much as you want!
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Florentin,
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another trendy district of Tel Aviv, is less idyllic but pure and loud.
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Florentin's Levinsky Markt is a veritable melting pot
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of culinary delights.
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Right in the middle: Benny Briga's mini-café.
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Everything here revolves around fresh herbs and fermented fruits.
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Benny turns them into extraordinary drinks
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in his two-square-meter shop .
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Partner Mosche is responsible for the herbs.
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He grows them himself in a Tel Aviv garden.
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Everything fresh and regional, the motto of their success.
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In "Levinsky 41" you get real works of art.
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They're almost too good to drink.
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The Tel Avivians are really good at living in the here and now.
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It's the sun, the happiness and the different cultures.
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In an Israeli family you will find people
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from five or six different countries.
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If you have a problem, someone will be there in five minutes to help.
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We are a small country and a small people.
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Everyone knows everyone.
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We live in a conflict zone.
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That is why one is friendly and warm in everyday life.
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In the end, it's about the interaction between people.
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Only that counts.
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* soft music *
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Every good chef in Tel Aviv shops at Levinsky Market.
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Everyone knows this inconspicuous door.
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Rather untypical for Tel Aviv: The short opening times.
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You have to remember them if you like special quality.
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Aria Habshush: a personality in the Levinsky market.
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His family business is an institution when it comes to spice quality.
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It's an exceptional market.
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The Levinsky Market is very culinary and unique
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because of the quality of the products.
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Here you can find special things from all over the world,
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and very fresh.
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It's amazing what's going on here every day.
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Not only locals shop at Arie.
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Tourists have also been coming lately.
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The Habshushs want more tourists to Israel.
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That's good for the country, says Arie.
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A lot of people are coming from Germany.
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But we hope there are more to come.
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But what I really want is peace.
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We've had enough of politics and war.
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We're fed up.
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We live like in a soap bubble.
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* Music *
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Not knowing what tomorrow will do paralyzes the fewest here.
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Rather, one has the feeling that it spurs Tel Aviv on.
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"Hakosem", "The Magician",
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is such an example of Tel Aviv's attitude towards life.
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Over 1000 chickpea fans step on their toes here every day.
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The best falafel in town is said to be here.
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The hummus, a staple of Israel,
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is also said to be one of the best here.
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Ariel Rosenthal is all about the chickpea.
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In fact, at some point I discovered that
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people from all over the world were suddenly taking notice
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of the inconspicuous but wonderful chickpea.
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Here at "Hakosem" we have around 150 guests a day.
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Everyone here only eats chickpeas.
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Because that is the basis of each of my dishes.
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The falafel ingredients are freshly prepared three times a day.
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And not a minute goes by that
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the crispy little balls aren't dancing in the oil bath.
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* oriental music *
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Ariel Rosenthal has
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published a book about hummus with chefs from all over the Middle East.
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For us it is clear: When it comes to food, there are no limits.
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We've drawn a map that
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focuses on the top nine chickpea cities.
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The book is called "On the Hummus Route".
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It shows a utopian journey
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between cities, people and dreams in the Middle East.
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From Cairo to Damascus, Gaza, Jaffa to Beirut,
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everyone makes their hummus differently. And everyone has the best hummus.
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"Hakosem" probably has the best falafel wrap.
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We come from everywhere.
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For example, Maxi is from Russia. Mar is Arab.
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Here alone we have so many nationalities.
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I think what sets us apart is
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that we have come from all over the world.
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We have become a community.
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You don't have anything like that in Germany, France or Italy.
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There have been German people in Germany for ages.
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We don't have eternities. We are a very young people.
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I think that's our secret.
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* Music *
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Tel Aviv is addictive.
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It makes you addicted to lightheartedness, love of life
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and this extraordinary kindness.
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And all this in the middle of a conflict zone!
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* Music * It is with a
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heavy heart
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that we say goodbye to this extraordinary city.
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We make our way to Abu Gosh.
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There we have an appointment
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with a 23-time Arab lottery millionaire.
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But first we want to visit the "King of Rock".
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* Music: "Jailhouse Rock" by Elvis Presley *
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This is the only place in the world
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where people dance rock 'n' roll at 9am.
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Elvis found his postmortem home
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here in Neve Ilan, a small suburb of Jerusalem
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. Uri Yoeli's "Elvis Diner" has been around since the 80s.
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Look at people's faces: they are happy. They laugh.
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This is Elvis. These are childhood memories.
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This isn't just music. This is something very special.
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* Music: "Jailhouse Rock" by Elvis Presley *
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* Call of the Muezzin *
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And it stays special.
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In the Arab village of Abu Gosch, all hell broke loose on Saturday,
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that is, on Shabbat, the Jewish day of rest.
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Abu Gosh is the country's hummus capital.
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An Arab lottery millionaire made them so.
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In America, Jawdat Ibrahim won $23 million.
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And he went back to his village with an idea.
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90% of our customers are Jews.
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20 years ago you couldn't find
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an open restaurant on Shabbat, i.e. Saturdays in Jerusalem.
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Now that's not the case.
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But people still come here to Abu Gosh.
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And they order
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like they haven't had anything to eat in weeks.
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Many politicians and even kings have eaten
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at Jawdat Ibrahim . In the Middle East there is one thing that
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is the same for everyone and that unites: the food.
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Hummus is on the table
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at every meeting between politicians
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in the Middle East.
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Hummus connects.
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It doesn't matter whether the hummus was made by an Arab or a Jew.
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You eat him.
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I try a lot to bring both sides together,
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to talk to each other, to meet on the same level.
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When we talk to each other,
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we can understand each other better.
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We have no other place to live,
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neither the Jews nor we Arabs.
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We have to live here whether we like it or not.
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There is simply no other choice.
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Then why don't we do it in a good way?
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But now he has to keep working, our millionaire.
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Apparently, good food is
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also a good basis for peaceful coexistence.
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From Abu Gosh we drive through the West Bank
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to the Dead Sea.
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It's downhill for miles.
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* dynamic music *
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Almost 430 meters below sea level,
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unimaginable but actually real: the Dead Sea.
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* spherical music *
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The water has a salt content of 30%.
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In comparison, the Mediterranean has just 3%.
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The Dead Sea is getting smaller and smaller.
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Sea level drops one meter per year.
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You used to be able to walk to En Gedi Beach.
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Today you have to take the tractor train.
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Nobody should explore the area on their own.
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The "sinkholes" are formed everywhere because of the retreat of water.
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There are craters up to 20 meters deep that suddenly open up.
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Nobody knows how long you can still swim here.
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It's still an incredibly fascinating experience.
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Yes, you can actually read newspapers.
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This was the first time for us.
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One hears that the salt content is said to be very high.
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You know that you're "floating" a bit on the surface.
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But it's still more than you expect.
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What also amazed us is the water temperature.
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It's over 30 degrees.
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That's nice...
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We didn't expect it to be so warm.
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Supposedly very healthy and in any case a lot of fun
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is rubbing with mud.
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This trio of men comes specially from the Copacabana.
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We're from Brazil. How are you? Very good!
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You can see how long they will come, the tourists.
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At the northern tip of the Dead Sea
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, the deepest gallery in the world draws attention to the death of the sea.
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Israel and Jordan should quickly find a solution
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to preserve the Dead Sea.
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High above the Dead Sea, in the middle of the barren mountains
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, the oasis of the kibbutz hotel "En Gedi" surprises.
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Karni Kovacs helped set up the kibbutz.
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Due to its dream location , it
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has long specialized in tourism and wellness.
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I'm originally from Tel Aviv. The army sent me here.
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On the very first day
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I met a nice man with fantastic green eyes.
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I fell in love with him instantly.
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We have been together for 41 years now and live here on the kibbutz.
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I love this place here. It's a real paradise.
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The history of the place
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and this atmosphere here is very special.
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Over 900 different flowers, plants and trees
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from all over the world grow here.
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Millennia-old springs
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make this unique green oasis so fertile.
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In the past, we were all the same on the kibbutz,
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no matter who did which job.
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Everyone had the same money. Housing and food were free.
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It's different now.
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We have jobs that we are paid to do.
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But we are still a community.
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We spend our whole life together.
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En Gedi has 550 kibbutz members.
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Most have lived here for decades.
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No cars, no noise, kissed by the sun and so relaxed!
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For the tourists there is a modern spa
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and the Dead Sea in addition to the original in a small format.
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By the way, "En Gedi" means "fountain of the kid".
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It is a real paradise in the middle of the rugged Judean mountains.
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Karni Kovacs will stay here with her family and continue to hope
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that the Dead Sea doesn't really die.
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We continue to Jerusalem in a very relaxed manner.
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The ultra-Orthodox neighborhood of Mea Sheariem is a world apart.
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Not only do you look different here,
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you think and speak differently than the rest of Israel.
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God is the theme here, always and everywhere.
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Israel Rabinowiyz, who runs a shop selling religious products,
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is under stress.
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Yom Kippur, the holiest Jewish holiday, is upon us.
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Everyone needs a new kippa or "cap"
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as they say in Yiddish here.
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Yiddish? Yiddish is German!
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50 percent of Yiddish is German.
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That's a nice "Kappel", for you "Kippa".
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Very nice!
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18!
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18 shekels is about 5 euros.
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Far more expensive are the hats of the ultra-Orthodox.
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"Ferster Hats" is not only an institution in Jerusalem.
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In New York, too, Jews buy from Fersters.
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And this is the king of hats: Itzhak Ferster.
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He invited us. And we are amazed.
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There are hundreds of different hat styles.
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The ultra-Orthodox only recognize among themselves
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who belongs to which group and where .
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Izhak Ferster's sanctum is below the salesrooms.
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Every hat is made by hand here.
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The Fersters are originally called "Förster".
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Itzhak's father had a hat shop in Wiesbaden
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before the Nazis came to power.
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(Reporter) That's your best seller, right?
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Yes. But this is a completely different model.
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(Reporter) Who buys your hats?
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Who has it to pay for.
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Cult hats with humor.
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A few steps separate the religious Mea Shearim
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from the secular Shuk Mahane Yehuda, Jerusalem's largest market.
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Born in Frankfurt, Arie Rosen knows both sides well.
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He too lived for a long time in a religious part of Jerusalem.
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The Shuk is now one of his favorite strains.
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Living in Israel is very expensive in terms of living expenses.
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But everyone can afford fruit and vegetables here.
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It is particularly crowded here before the high holiday of Yom Kippur.
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Despite this, the atmosphere is mostly friendly.
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That was an Arab seller.
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He wished me "Health to you!"
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And: "Health for the people of Israel!"
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It's nice when you treat each other like that.
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In and around the market there is food from all over the world.
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And, of course, hummus is always included.
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This is my favorite restaurant.
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It's called "Rahmo", Iraqi cuisine, oriental cuisine.
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The nice thing about Israel is: every ethnic group...
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The Jews returned to Israel from all over the world.
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Every ethnic group brought their food to Israel.
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And only the best prevailed.
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It's a very diverse cuisine.
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And the Iraqi food is very tasty.
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When you come to Israel for the first time
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, you should definitely visit Yad Vashem.
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Yad Vashem is the Holocaust Memorial.
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I don't think you can
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really understand Israel and the Jewish people without the Holocaust.
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In the Holocaust, the Jews were defenseless.
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Today you fight for this country.
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Jews all over the world support this.
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Because we know very well that in the end we
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can trust no one but ourselves.
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This also explains the attitude and this inseparability
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between the Jews and the land of Israel.
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Yad Vashem hurts, really hurts.
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Against forgetting!
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Don't give anti-Semitism any space, not a millimeter!
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More than 6 million Jews were systematically murdered by Germans
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during the Nazi era .
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That will be ingrained in this people forever.
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On the night before Yom Kippur, the Day of Atonement,
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tens of thousands of Jews from all over the world
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gather in front of the Western Wall in Jerusalem's Old City.
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They pray and sing together until four in the morning.
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tightly packed, no violence, no panic, no terror.
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*singing*
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Jerusalem, the holy city.
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Three world religions are fighting for their place here.
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The old town has been fiercely contested for thousands of years.
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A square kilometer of world history!
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* Guitar music with singing *
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The main shrine of the Jews is the Wailing Wall.
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Here one should be closest to God.
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Many put notes in the cracks between the stones.
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They wrote wishes and prayers on them.
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Not far away, the Muslim Dome of the Rock is enthroned
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on the Temple Mount.
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It is one of the oldest shrines of Islam.
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And then there are the Christians.
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The Old City of Jerusalem is intense.
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In the middle of the Via Dolorosa, the Passion of Jesus,
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you can take a break from the religious or just noisy turmoil.
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And in a very pleasant way.
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And yes, everyone can come to the oldest
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Christian guest house in Jerusalem, the Austrian Hospice.
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And you can't just sleep here.
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In our Café Triest we have a large selection
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of Austrian dishes.
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The Sachertorte, the apple strudel,
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the Wiener Schnitzel and Käspätzle are very popular.
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It's all made by our local staff.
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The kitchen crew is all local
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and trained by Austrian chefs.
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And the icing on the cake:
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For a little more than one euro you have
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a really magnificent view over the old town from here.
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* Music *
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Of course, if you walk through the old town during the day
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, you will meet crowds of tourists, groups of pilgrims, Jews, Muslims,
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who are pursuing their religious activities in the old town.
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Then a big door will open.
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The Austrian hospice opens, you go into the garden,
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the oasis and have time to think, to reflect.
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It is a place of calm, of stillness.
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You can comfortably enjoy coffee and apple strudel.
00:30:49
Josef's business is anything but comfortable.
00:30:53
He is the "Lord of the Crosses" here.
00:30:56
And they are damn heavy: 20 kilos each.
00:31:00
The pilgrims want it that way.
00:31:02
Jesus didn't have it easy on his way of the cross.
00:31:05
via the Via Dolorosa.
00:31:08
The Canaan Muslim family has had a
00:31:11
monopoly on the pilgrim crosses in Jerusalem for generations.
00:31:15
This arrangement avoided chaos
00:31:18
for hundreds of years
00:31:20
. * singing *
00:31:29
Sometimes there are only four crosses a day, sometimes none at all.
00:31:37
In the week before Christmas and Easter things are going really well.
00:31:40
I bring eight to ten crosses to the pilgrim groups.
00:31:49
Tirelessly, Josef balances the heavy load
00:31:52
nimbly through the narrow streets.
00:31:54
He knows all the abbreviations here.
00:31:56
And he always keeps track of his crosses.
00:32:00
He knows when to fetch or bring crosses from where.
00:32:07
* Church singing *
00:32:10
The last stations of the cross are mastered by the pilgrims
00:32:14
in the Church of the Holy Sepulchre.
00:32:19
Jesus' anointing stone is wiped vigorously,
00:32:22
the cloths later packed airtight
00:32:25
and taken home like a sanctuary.
00:32:28
Jesus cult.
00:32:30
For the very last station of the cross
00:32:33
, you have to have a lot of patience and wait in a long line.
00:32:44
The most important site in the Church of the Holy Sepulcher
00:32:47
is the empty Christ's tomb in the Chapel of the Holy Sepulchre.
00:32:55
And it's so tight there that only three people can get in at a time.
00:33:04
The true thoroughbred pilgrim now has only one way to go:
00:33:09
to the tattoo studio of Waseem Razzouk,
00:33:12
a Palestinian Christian originally from Egypt.
00:33:16
Helen from Wales
00:33:20
wished for an olive branch at the end of her pilgrimage.
00:33:22
In Jerusalem, the Razzouks have been tattooing for centuries.
00:33:28
To seal their pilgrimage, many pilgrims get
00:33:32
a tattoo here, usually a cross and the date of the pilgrimage.
00:33:39
They show that they have renewed their faith
00:33:43
and continue to follow in the footsteps of Jesus.
00:33:53
Holy, holier, holiest and all in such a small space.
00:34:01
* Prayer chant *
00:34:07
Three hours until Yom Kippur,
00:34:09
the holiest of all Jewish holidays.
00:34:22
At sunset, public life in Israel will come to
00:34:26
a standstill, including in Tel Aviv, the city that never sleeps.
00:34:44
For 25 hours there will be no car on Israel's roads,
00:34:49
unimaginable and a fascinating experience every year,
00:34:54
a religiously based eco-holiday so to speak.
00:34:58
Environmental protection and deceleration,
00:35:00
such a holiday should be introduced all over the world.
00:35:04
Yom Kippur not only draws the Jewish world to the Holy Land.
00:35:07
Sam here has traveled from Papua New Guinea
00:35:11
to celebrate Yom Kippur in Israel.
00:35:16
This is a holy day. We respect this day.
00:35:22
We are here for three weeks
00:35:26
and celebrate the holidays together with the Israelis.
00:35:30
So far we have been in Jerusalem.
00:35:33
We definitely want to experience Yom Kippur in Tel Aviv.
00:35:41
Like angels, many dress in white
00:35:46
and do not eat all day.
00:35:50
Moshe will explain to us why... in a moment.
00:36:02
We do not eat on this day
00:36:04
because we want to receive blessings for the whole year.
00:36:10
When you have everything, luxuries, sex, food, cigarettes, you cannot move your
00:36:15
soul and mind to another place.
00:36:21
When people do yoga or fast,
00:36:24
they suddenly feel very close to themselves.
00:36:27
It's actually the same concept here.
00:36:34
The concept also makes Tel Aviv's children happy:
00:36:37
finally space to play.
00:36:42
Moshe will spend the whole day in the synagogue to
00:36:45
be very close to God.
00:36:48
He's a little late because of us.
00:36:51
But in Moshe's synagogue they don't take it so seriously,
00:36:54
he calms our guilty conscience.
00:37:07
Some pray, others consistently practice body cult.
00:37:11
What a wonderful holiday!
00:37:25
We only see relaxed faces
00:37:28
and even Tel Aviv's pigeons come to rest.
00:37:38
The Jewish holidays begin and end
00:37:41
at nightfall.
00:37:43
As soon as three stars appear in the sky,
00:37:46
a ram's horn is blown in the synagogue on Yom Kippur
00:37:49
and the holiday is over.
00:37:52
We are now eagerly awaiting this.
00:37:54
Because everyone is getting really hungry.
00:38:02
* Ram's horn blowing *
00:38:11
Done. The believers happily hug each other.
00:38:16
All sins are forgiven.
00:38:18
Now everyone just wants one thing: to go home, eat and drink.
00:38:24
We enjoy the special atmosphere of this last night in Tel Aviv
00:38:28
a little before traffic
00:38:31
takes over the city again and we set off on our last leg.
00:38:39
The journey from Tel Aviv to northern Israel takes two hours.
00:38:47
Our destination is
00:38:49
Akko, the Crusader city and home of Israel's most famous fish chef.
00:38:55
"Who conquers Akko, conquers the world." Napoleon is said to have said
00:38:59
after he tried in vain to take the city.
00:39:02
Uri Jeremias definitely won the hearts of the people of Akko. Uri is
00:39:10
almost revered in the old town of Akko, which is mostly inhabited by Arab Israelis
00:39:14
.
00:39:19
Everyone wants to talk to him. Why?
00:39:23
Because he is a doer, moves the city forward with his ideas
00:39:27
and creates jobs.
00:39:32
You walk around here and look at it.
00:39:36
You sit at home in front of the television.
00:39:39
You look at the news in Germany, England, America,
00:39:43
everywhere, and you can never imagine being
00:39:46
so calm and comfortable and welcome.
00:39:50
You can walk around the city here.
00:39:52
You don't see if, then very little police or army at all.
00:39:59
Jews and Arabs work together.
00:40:04
And what it actually takes to achieve that
00:40:07
is one very simple ingredient and that is respect.
00:40:12
That is why it is also very important for us that you are here.
00:40:16
With that you can tell people:
00:40:18
Arabs and Jews can live together.
00:40:20
You just have to let them.
00:40:24
Uri is Jewish and not a cook.
00:40:27
Most of his employees are Arabs and they are not cooks either.
00:40:32
This goes together perfectly and tastes incredibly good!
00:40:37
That in particular is an advantage.
00:40:39
Educated cooks know what to do. I do not know.
00:40:44
I have to invent.
00:40:52
this is fish That's a salmon.
00:40:56
It's just wrapped in seaweed, wrapped in seaweed
00:41:03
and very briefly with some breadcrumbs so that it's still raw on the inside.
00:41:12
The restaurant is neither kosher nor closed on Shabbat.
00:41:16
It's always full and has been for 30 years.
00:41:25
Uri, who used to defuse bombs and also lived
00:41:29
in a Hamburg hippie community for quite a while, has
00:41:32
another jewel in the middle of Akko's old town in addition to his restaurant.
00:41:39
This is our hotel "Efendi".
00:41:49
Just renovating that was three times as much as building new.
00:41:54
That's crazy.
00:41:57
This is the house with the highest level of conservation
00:42:01
ever made among private people in Israel.
00:42:08
True to the original down to the last detail, Uri Jeremias
00:42:11
had an Ottoman palace restored under the strict supervision
00:42:15
of the monument protection authority.
00:42:25
History can be felt in every room here.
00:42:28
And that is exactly the special luxury of the 5-star hotel.
00:42:41
Dawai!
00:42:44
Back to the restaurant.
00:42:46
Mango and black olives, that's all.
00:42:54
Uri personally sets the table for us. What an honour!
00:42:58
You always have to sit down quickly.
00:43:00
Otherwise there is no more space.
00:43:03
With these prospects, we don't want to risk
00:43:05
someone snatching our place away .
00:43:13
But you have to start eating.
00:43:15
Finally. Enjoy your meal! - Good Appetite!
00:43:23
Uri Buri's recipe for success:
00:43:25
Nothing that Uri doesn't like leaves his kitchen and also:
00:43:29
Two rules: buy the best material
00:43:33
and the second is not to spoil.
00:43:36
That's two rules.
00:43:40
Thank you Uri for allowing us to accompany you throughout the day
00:43:45
and for patiently giving us insights into your world.
00:43:52
And thank you Israel!
00:44:00
We were welcome everywhere,
00:44:02
felt very safe at all times and in all places.
00:44:06
We definitely want to come back.
00:44:27
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