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these are the steps I will be teaching
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you in this portion of the
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DVD before we get our hands muddy let me
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tell you why it's called throwing on the
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wheel the first potter's wheel were
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about 2500 years ago and only the wheel
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head was on the ground and only men were
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allowed to be po ERS and they would sit
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cross-legged by the wheel head and they
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would have a big heavy stick with a
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string on it the string would wrap
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around the wheel head and then they
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would throw the stick which would spin
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the wheel head like a top and that's why
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it's called throwing to this day even
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though there's really not any throwing
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involved just for your information so
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the first step is called centering
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centering is not the hardest step but it
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is the first step if you talk to anybody
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about throwing on The Potter's Wheel
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they will tell you that they never got
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their pot centered well that's why they
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never really made any good pots because
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centering is very important but there's
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just a couple basic hints that you need
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to know to where you can Center your
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clay there's a lot of different ways of
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teaching centering but I'll show you the
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way that works so you need to have your
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ball of clay nice and round we're
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throwing a round pot on a round wheel
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going round and round this needs to be
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nice and round you want to make it sure
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that it's secure to the wheel head so we
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want to give it a little bit of a tap
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maybe Pat it on the top and then it's
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time to get our hands wet it's very
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important that you keep your hands wet
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while you're working on the wheel you
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always want your hands slipping across
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the surface of the clay if at any time
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your hands get dry and it drags on the
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clay that's going to throw off the
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Rhythm and the rotation of the pot and
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that's when you start getting a lot of
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warping and a little bit of sagging so
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make sure that your hands are nice and
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wet a lot of times a teacher will teach
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you to hold a sponge and keep squeezing
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the sponge over the clay the entire time
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in a couple steps that works but I will
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tell you that you don't want to get too
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wet because then your Olive clay start
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slipping off the wheel head so I'm going
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to get my hands wet and it's time to
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Center my position at the wheel is good
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my elbows are tucked in I'm going to
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lean the whole weight of my body behind
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my elbow to where it goes down my arm to
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the heel of my hand I'm going to push
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the heel of my hand into the clay on the
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left hand side it's the left hand side
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of the ball of clay with my left hand my
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right hand is going to grab the thumb of
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my left hand and push down so as I push
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the clay down it swells out to hit the
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heel of my hand with the whole weight of
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my upper body pushed into the clay this
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is a wonderful way of centering let me
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show you we want our wheel head about
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fast medium fast I'm going to push in
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and down in and
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down I'm getting a little dry so I'm
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going to put some water on my hands and
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again again I'm going to push in and
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down it's very important that your left
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elbow is tucked into your body right on
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that pelvic bone that's why it's
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important that the pelvic Bone's a
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little bit higher than the wheel head if
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I have my elbow out on my leg and my
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clay is not centered the whole wobble of
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the clay pushes my hand which pushes my
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leg there's no stability there if you're
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having a hard time centering just
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tucking that left elbow in will make all
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the difference there are a couple of
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ways of teaching centering some people
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will have you Center like this squeezing
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both on the left and the right hand side
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again my elbows are spread out and so I
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do not have any stability a lot of times
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you'll be taught to Cone where you pull
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the clay up into an upside down ice
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cream cone and then you push it back
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down again this relies all on upper body
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strength being able to squeeze that clay
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in I'm not really a fan of coning
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because I think as you cone up and add
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water and push it back down you're
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actually wedging water into the clay
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which will make your clay too wet and
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then it will be hard to make the shape
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of the pot later on but coning does work
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if your Clay is a little stiff if your
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Clay is a little stiff go ahead cone it
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up douse it with water push it down to
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that two or three times and you're
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wedging water right into the clay so
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let's go back to the centering position
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I'm grabbing my thumb my right hand
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pushing down on the top my left hand is
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pushing into the clay you know your Clay
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is centered when you look at it it
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almost looks like it's sitting still
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another thing is to close your eyes and
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feel the clay and make sure that there's
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not any wobble to it at all I will tell
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you that you can have the top of your
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clay centered and the sides are
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not you can also have the sides
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centered with the top not centered it's
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very important that you have both the
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sides and the top smooth and centered
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if your Clay is a good consistency and
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soft your elbows tucked in you lean your
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body into the clay you will Center very
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quickly our next step is opening I'm
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going to get my hands wet the clay wet
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my left hand stays in position it's not
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really pushing on the clay it's just
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resting on the left hand side of the
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clay and then I'm going to take my
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finger and just lean it in to the center
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of the clay again I can be the Rock and
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the stream will move around I don't have
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to find the Center and just poke
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straight in I can just lean in and the
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clay will move around the finger finding
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the center you want to make sure that
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your hands are wet because as you're
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opening you're getting into fresh clay
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so you want to slide in notice how my
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right hand is braced on my left with a
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thumb so that I have still good
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stability elbows are tucked in and I'm
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nice and stable you don't want to keep
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poking all the way through the clay or
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you'll poke all the way down to the
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wheel head and then your bottom of the
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pot will be non-existent you'll just
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have a donut so be sure that you leave
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at least a half in or a/4 of inch of
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clay at the bottom of the pot once we've
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opened it's time for what I call cut in
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and widen my hands are in the opening
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position I'm going to crook my fingers
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into the palm of my hand cutting into
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the clay almost creating a ledge of clay
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right here cutting in again we don't
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want to cut all the way to the palm of
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the hand or I'll have a doughnut in my
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hands so what we want to do is just
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barely cut in leaving about a half inch
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to 3/4 inch of a wall between the palm
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of my hands and my fingers so I'm going
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to start cutting
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in my hands are crooked and I have a
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little shelf of clay right there on top
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of those fingers now I'm going to widen
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and what I do is with these two fingers
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I just flatten the clay right into the
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palm of my hand when you're working on
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the wheel you have to remember that the
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pot is going around and around and
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whatever pressure you put on the pot you
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need to wait for one full Revolution so
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that the clay can adjust all the way
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around the pot and then you can continue
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with your pressure that's why you move
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very slow and very steady when you're
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working with the wheel you know that
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you've done cut in and widen
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appropriately when you can look into
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your pot and you can see a definite wall
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and bottom on your pot you want this
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squared off edge a lot of beginner
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Potters will make a little U on the
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inside they're not making a definite
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bottom so we want to make sure that we
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have a definite wall and bottom this
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will make pulling up so much easier the
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next step is compressing the bottom and
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the compressing the bottom a lot of
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teachers leave this step out but I think
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it's very important the bottom of your
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pot is a little uneven and also we want
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to make it strong we want to comess that
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clay making the little mic particles of
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clay lay flat and strong next to each
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other I take the sponge and I push it
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from the center to 3:00 pushing down
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making sure that it's nice and flat as
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as well as
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compressed compressing the bottom is
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important because as your pot dries
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normally on a pot the walls are thicker
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than the bottom and so it will dry
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unevenly and then when it starts drying
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the bottom of the pot can give a little
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bit quicker than the walls will and so
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it develops a little s crack in the
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bottom but if you compress the bottom
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99% of the time you will not get an S
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crack the other thing about compressing
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the bottom I call it the Breather step
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because there's a couple things that you
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need to know no when you're compressing
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the bottom your wheel speed needs to
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slow down to medium also from now on
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every other Step At the Wheel is going
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to be on the right hand side the first
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three steps were on the left we centered
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we opened we cut in and widen now we're
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compressing the bottom and this is just
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our clue that from now on everything's
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on the right hand side the way that you
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get a clue is if I try to compress on
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the left side that Clay is feeding
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underneath my sponge and it's jabbing
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into into my fingers so it's just
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natural for me to put it over here from
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the center to 3:00 so the clay will feed
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underneath my sponge where the sponge is
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under my fingers and the clay is sliding
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underneath the sponge so this is our
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clue it's time to slow the wheel down
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and move to the right hand side