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leather is one of the earliest crafts
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accompany humans since the origin of the
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species it is a durable versatile and
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natural material something of high value
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accomplishing a whole range of uses
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we appreciate the look feel an even
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unique smell of leather but a question
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may arise
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how is modern leather made we aim to add
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light to this by means of this concise
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video as we highlight the various key
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processes in making leather the heights
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from large animals and skins from small
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animals come from many parts of the
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world and are a byproduct of any
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industry
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heids arrived at the tannery after being
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treated with salt to preserve them from
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bacterial action
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the first process performed is to shake
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out the salt avoiding pollution of the
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water system
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[Music]
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leathers are then soaked in lime in a
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process called blaming this chemically
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dissolves the hair removes unwanted
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proteins and opens up the fiber
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structure this process swells the
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leather considerably remembering that
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this material comes from an animal
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it still has fleshy parts to it
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therefore the next process is fleshing
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the fleshing machine has many cutting
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blades and a revolving cylinder that
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cuts away unwanted fleshy matter and
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regularizes leather thickness
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[Music]
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the leathers pass on to the next stage
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called trimming where workers cut away
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useless or unwanted material from the
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edges of raw hides to give them a better
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shape or trim
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[Music]
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a very important operation then takes
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place called splitting as the leather is
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still of a thick dimension this is the
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operation of cutting a hide or skin
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horizontally into two layers
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[Music]
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the upper layer the more external part
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of the animal is called top grain
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and the lower layer is called split
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now the tanning process takes place in
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this case the hides are placed inside a
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wooden rotating drum specially designed
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for tanning tanning agents convert the
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raw fibers of the hide into a durable
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product preserving it improving its
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abrasion resistance and heat and flex
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resistance able to endure repeated
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cycles of wetting and drying
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[Music]
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next two large rolls squeeze out the
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excess moisture as the hides are fed
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through a machine this is termed ringing
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[Music]
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the leathers are called wet blowed and
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may now be selected or graded as desired
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according to the destination of use
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[Music]
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once there have been selected they need
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to be reduced and made uniform in
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thickness this is done by a shaving
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method normally a machine with a rapidly
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revolving bladed cylinder
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the livers are then returned and died
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through literally a further tanning
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treatment to modify leathers properties
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the leathers that exit here are now
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uniformly died the natural beauty of
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leather is made even more striking by
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the wide variety of shades which the
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modern Tanner is capable of producing
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the last of the wet operations is the
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fat liquor to grant leather permanent
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softness elasticity and flexing
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resistance
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now we come to the drawing operations
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the first step is setting out our
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working over the grain surface to remove
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excess water and eliminate wrinkles
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[Music]
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leather drawing can be continued by
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various methods one of these is vacuum
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drawing where leathers are put on a
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large hot flat plate and another plate
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presses down and sucks the water out of
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the leather by creating a vacuum
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[Music]
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this is a very effective method
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or there is toggling leathers are fixed
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on frames with toggles or clamps
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[Music]
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the levers then go through a dryer
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[Music]
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this stretching can be done manually
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here is a machine that does it
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automatically
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[Music]
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another method is suspension drawing the
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hides are suspended from the ground on a
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wire or chain so that air has free
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access to both sides and move high up
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around the ternary complex in this way
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the letters dry at room temperature
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[Music]
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leather is staked to make it open and
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softer pins pound the leather from both
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above and below hundreds of times as it
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passes through the machine stretching
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and flexing the leather in every
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direction this softens a leather
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remarkably
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[Music]
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some skins have natural healed scratches
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or parasitic damage in the grain of the
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leather a very special flexible paste
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stucco can fill in such gaps
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[Music]
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a light buffing or sanding leaves a
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clean smooth surface ready for the
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subsequent finishing operation
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[Music]
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the finishing Department is the area
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where an alert and creative mind that's
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the final touches to enhance the natural
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beauty of leather one method of applying
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the finish is the rotary spray several
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spray guns are mounted on a unit which
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continuously revolves over the leather
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unique patterns and two-tone effects can
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be obtained
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[Music]
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once the leather is dry an artificial
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grain pattern is often created by
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embossing the leather using edged or
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engraved rolls
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[Music]
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grain pattern and softness can be
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further enhanced by joy milling the
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leather
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before being delivered to the customer
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the leather is measured by a very
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precise machine
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[Music]
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by caste is a completely different
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system of finishing or enhancing leather
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usually with split or heavily buff
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leather maintaining the same thickness
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and softness the technique consists of
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creating the finishing film on a
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continuous support of release paper
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[Music]
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and that adhesive is applied to the film
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then the film is pressed on the leather
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[Music]
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the finished leather is then removed
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from the release paper displaying a
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perfectly uniform surface
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[Music]
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in viewing these principle processes you
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can appreciate the passion dedication
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technology and creativity that goes into
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working and finishing learner
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[Music]
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you
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leather texts tanneries is a part of
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leather text group and is one of the
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leading manufacturers and exporters of
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finished leather but the company's prime
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objective is to produce high quality
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leathers for shoes handbags another
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smaller because we are one of the major
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tanneries in Pakistan with complete
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production setup of leather making
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starting red for road to finishing
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leather text has been awarded best
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export trophy 1996 to 1997 1997 to 1998
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1999 to 2000 and again for the year 2007
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to 2008 a healthy work environment at
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leather techs keeps its workers healthy
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and provides opportunities to meet with
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their work and personal goals we firmly
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believe that only a healthy environment
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can produce quality products with huge
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stocks of graded raw skins we guarantee
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our customers right quality good volume
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consistent prices and
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no matter which size selection and
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substance is required whether text has
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got a complete range for all skins and
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stock available which can support her
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production for at least six months these
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stocks are ready in wet blue and pick
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will form for immediate production as
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for the ordered specifications at wet
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blue and purple selection stage each and
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every skin goes through multiple
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selection processes to be segregated and
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stacked into different categories for
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prompt issuance for production while
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issuing the skins for further processing
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each and every skin is again selected
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manually to ensure all the skins have
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the right substance for style and
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quality according to the specifications
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ordered by the customers these skins are
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again measured through an electronic
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measuring machine to further ensure that
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not a single piece which doesn't comply
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the specifications laid by the customer
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is issued
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our dying section which plays the role
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of the backbone in our tannery operates
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under the vigilant supervision of the
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qualified technicians 24 hours a day and
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seven days a week we produce a very wide
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range of fashion colors including very
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light colors as we are mainly working
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for ladies shoes and bag industry
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uniform and thorough dyeing with unique
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handmade textures and even natural
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milling is a signature and speciality of
00:16:08
leather Tex
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our customers strongly believe in our
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ability to produce these unique handmade
00:16:15
textures and therefore eagerly await our
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new collection every season
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our sample lab is fully equipped with
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experimental drums and world-class
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machinery where our research and
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development department continuously
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keeps on researching and adding optimal
00:16:34
value to the raw skins by developing new
00:16:36
articles with diversify advantages and
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trendy colors
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[Music]
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our leather is renowned for its
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versatility of tannic green patterns and
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finishes which fully caters to the needs
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of our customers leather Tex is
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currently doing a variety of challenges
00:16:53
like Chrome panitch semi vegetable
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tarnish and chrome free tonnage and
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diversified grain patterns like milled
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grain flat grain semi milled natural
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shrunken and handmade textures making
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leather is a passion for leather Tex
00:17:10
extreme care professional treatment
00:17:13
accurate and precise mechanical
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processes carried out under continuous
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supervision of qualified technicians and
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state-of-the-art machines from the most
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famous brands ensuring quality
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uniformity consistency and durability of
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our leather article
00:17:32
our planned and systematic machine
00:17:35
processes helps us ensure the
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suitability of our products to meet our
00:17:39
customers market needs at leather Tech's
00:17:43
will strongly believe that only a
00:17:44
healthy worker can produce a quality
00:17:46
product which can reach the high
00:17:49
expectation level of our customers
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therefore at leather Tech's we make sure
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that all our workers follow the health
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and safety regulations set by the
00:17:58
company we have designed planned and
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supervised our factory to be a safe and
00:18:05
healthy workplace for our workers
00:18:07
so the buffing process is carried out in
00:18:09
the backside area of in tannery and is
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equipped with a fully automatic feeder
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sting and dust collection system to keep
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the place dust free and lovely right
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selection correct substance accurate
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size of skins and proper tonnage is
00:18:26
crucial to make the right article a
00:18:28
therapist two-piece inspection is
00:18:30
carried out by experienced and skillful
00:18:33
staff before issuing the crust for
00:18:35
finishing during crust selection it is
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in short that not a single piece of sub
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graded quality
00:18:42
and substance is Center for finishing
00:18:48
finishing is the foremost and crucial
00:18:50
stage in leather making leather techs
00:18:53
finishing section is really equipped
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with state-of-the-art most sophisticated
00:18:57
finishing machines made by famous
00:18:59
Italian brands we produce many types of
00:19:03
finishing including aniline semi an
00:19:05
alliance natural waxy patent glazed
00:19:09
brush-off coiled pull up and hand
00:19:13
finished with lots of colors metallics
00:19:15
as well as non metallics this unique
00:19:20
blend of qualified skilful technicians
00:19:22
and state-of-the-art finishing machines
00:19:24
is developing and producing a wide range
00:19:26
of splendid and excellent articles every
00:19:29
year that are awaited by many of the
00:19:31
famous brands in the world of fashion
00:19:33
for completing their product range
00:19:38
induction of new machines and techniques
00:19:41
is given its due importance and Leavitt
00:19:43
X and this plays a very important role
00:19:46
in our research and development who
00:19:48
subsequently keeps us and our customers
00:19:50
at the forefront in the fashion InDesign
00:19:54
leather Tex always keeps its customers
00:19:56
well informed and updated on the
00:19:59
upcoming trends in color forecast we
00:20:01
develop our catalog and designer guides
00:20:04
twice a year which makes the job of our
00:20:06
customers much simple in Enzo
00:20:10
nether text is always maintained
00:20:13
state-of-the-art laboratories and sample
00:20:15
department as a majority of our
00:20:17
production is fashion oriented for which
00:20:20
research and development skilled
00:20:22
technicians and good chemicals are the
00:20:24
key ingredients nether text has got a
00:20:27
very skillful and highly efficient
00:20:29
sampling Department which is capable of
00:20:32
producing samples according to the
00:20:34
market trends and the customers require
00:20:36
us in the shortest possible time
00:20:40
customer satisfaction and comfort is the
00:20:43
focal point with a whole production
00:20:45
strategy and quality policy moves when
00:20:48
is evident in the whole production
00:20:50
process seen before the quality system
00:20:53
is was read and being monitored at all
00:20:56
stages at the final inspection each and
00:20:59
every single piece of the lot is again
00:21:01
carefully checked and compared with the
00:21:03
standards with due care and personalized
00:21:06
effort it is ensured that not a single
00:21:09
piece of leather which is not up to the
00:21:11
customer's required quality size
00:21:13
substance and finishing to make her out
00:21:18
the leathers that have been passed by
00:21:20
the final quality inspectors for
00:21:22
shipping out i measured by the square
00:21:24
feet or square meters as required by the
00:21:27
customers and then packed in cartons of
00:21:30
right size and wrapped in fabric to make
00:21:32
sure that goods arrived to the customer
00:21:34
in good condition from time consistent
00:21:37
and timely deliveries are the unique
00:21:39
selling points of lunatics and repeat
00:21:42
orders from our valuable customers we
00:21:44
are proof of their control centers
00:21:47
containers are completely checked before
00:21:50
stuffing so that the goods reach at the
00:21:52
destination safely we are producing a
00:21:57
wide range of articles on domestic goat
00:21:59
mainly for ladies shoe and bag industry
00:22:02
due to the efforts of our active and
00:22:05
energetic research department the
00:22:07
leather Tech's presents a wide range of
00:22:09
new collection twice a year which is
00:22:11
evaluated by many of the prestigious
00:22:13
brands
00:22:16
never text is an active participant in
00:22:18
all of the major exhibitions around the
00:22:20
globe where these new collections are
00:22:23
presented to its customers to fulfill
00:22:27
the commitment of producing quality
00:22:29
leather leather textile areas and as its
00:22:31
own in-house testing facility which
00:22:34
caters to most of the required tests
00:22:36
using top-of-the-line testing equipment
00:22:38
from cetera the tests can be carried out
00:22:40
according to many of the international
00:22:42
standards as per customers demand this
00:22:45
in-house testing clubs are save a lot of
00:22:48
time and in maintaining a strict quality
00:22:50
measures we always keep our customers
00:22:54
updated by providing certificates of
00:22:57
compliance as soon as any new regulation
00:23:00
comes into force leather Tex relies on
00:23:05
the most well known European suppliers
00:23:07
for its complete requirements of
00:23:09
chemicals this ensures on-time delivery
00:23:12
with a required quality we do not use
00:23:15
substandard non branded chemicals
00:23:18
therefore our products fully comply all
00:23:21
European standards for non hazardous
00:23:23
chemicals in the third world most of the
00:23:30
countries at the moment are suffering
00:23:31
from power shortage
00:23:33
the factories are closed for hours
00:23:36
fortunately leather Tex has its own
00:23:38
power backup system this system ensures
00:23:41
the uninterrupted power supply to
00:23:43
machines to ensure on-time deliveries
00:23:49
senior management at their level have
00:23:51
always demonstrated their extraordinary
00:23:53
management planning controlling
00:23:56
organizing and marketing capabilities to
00:23:59
accelerate the company's development
00:24:01
over the period of 25 years discipline
00:24:06
is cultivated in the workers to create a
00:24:09
feeling of self-worth and to help them
00:24:11
to become independent and responsible
00:24:14
citizens the social responsibility is a
00:24:22
fundamental element in the business
00:24:25
ethics leather text group fully
00:24:28
understands its responsibility therefore
00:24:31
a score of primary education was
00:24:33
launched initially in 1997 in the
00:24:36
families owned house in the village area
00:24:39
of dialogue the school was run using
00:24:42
exclusively the family's own financial
00:24:45
resources and some help from a few
00:24:47
friends in the year 2006 the school was
00:24:51
upgraded to middle level and then
00:24:54
to a secondary school in the year 2008
00:24:56
the school faculty has focused on
00:24:59
effective learning through the children
00:25:01
and preparing strong-headed
00:25:03
socially responding and proactive
00:25:06
individuals the outcome is encouraging
00:25:10
most of the teachers now serving in the
00:25:13
school were previously students of the
00:25:15
score their motivation and dedication in
00:25:19
their jobs is proving extremely
00:25:21
effective the score has cast an
00:25:24
extraordinary impact on the mindset of
00:25:26
the people of the village an adjacent
00:25:29
area the turn of mind and the liking of
00:25:33
the education being seen nowadays and
00:25:35
the people of the village are remarkable
00:25:37
[Music]
00:25:51
you
00:26:11
welcome to Hermann oak leather we have
00:26:14
been tanning leather for 125 years
00:26:16
through four generations this video is
00:26:19
designed to help explain how leather is
00:26:21
made our leather is still made the
00:26:23
old-fashioned way with tannins that come
00:26:26
from tree bark this is called vegetable
00:26:29
tanning which has certain properties
00:26:31
still valued by many people around the
00:26:33
world for its beauty and workability we
00:26:36
hope you will find this interesting and
00:26:38
everyone in our company welcomes you to
00:26:40
join us on our tour the tanning process
00:26:42
you will see here is one of the oldest
00:26:44
antigens called vegetable tanning as it
00:26:47
uses the tannins from organic matter
00:26:49
like tree bark leaves and nuts
00:26:51
while this tannins used to be the
00:26:54
predominant Tanager round the world it
00:26:56
is now a specialty tannin shoes clothing
00:26:59
and upholstery have switched over the
00:27:01
past hundred years to Chrome tanning
00:27:03
which uses the metal chromium takes a
00:27:06
much shorter time and is less costly to
00:27:08
make the vegetable Pantages you will see
00:27:11
here however still retain their ability
00:27:13
to mold carve provide firmness and are
00:27:16
compatible with skin which are
00:27:18
fundamental to their use in the markets
00:27:20
for the horse pet orthopedic and craft
00:27:23
industries a century ago this vegetable
00:27:27
tanned is used to take up to a year for
00:27:29
each hide nowadays it still takes
00:27:31
between one and three months rawhides if
00:27:35
left wet will rot if hides are dried
00:27:38
they will not rot yet are no longer
00:27:41
flexible and have limited use tanning is
00:27:44
simply a method of combining another
00:27:46
substance called tannin with the hide
00:27:49
fiber to allow the resultant leather to
00:27:51
be dried yet remain flexible the
00:27:53
chemical process of getting there
00:27:55
however is very involved hides are
00:27:57
removed from the cattle at the packing
00:27:59
plant washed flesh to remove fat trimmed
00:28:03
then the water removed in a
00:28:05
doughnut-shaped raceway using a
00:28:07
saturated salt brine solution they are
00:28:10
then sorted for gender weight and brands
00:28:14
our industry uses the heavier weighted
00:28:16
portion of the native or non-branded
00:28:18
male steer sides or about one percent of
00:28:21
the available cattle hides of the u.s.
00:28:23
the u.s. produces about 30 million hides
00:28:26
a year from a cattle population of
00:28:28
around 100 million you may notice on
00:28:31
this cured hide some of the natural
00:28:33
wrinkles and draw which comes from the
00:28:35
growth and the breed of the animal
00:28:37
tanners attempt to minimize the
00:28:39
appearance of these yet they can never
00:28:41
be fully corrected the first operation
00:28:44
the Tanner performs is to soak the hide
00:28:45
back to its original water content by
00:28:48
removing the salt the hair is then
00:28:50
removed with lime and sulphide forming a
00:28:53
lye type solution to break down the hair
00:28:56
the lime has the additional benefit of
00:28:58
plumping the fibers by raising the pH
00:29:00
opening the fibers so they accept the
00:29:02
later tannins this is the first major
00:29:04
chemical process which needs stringent
00:29:06
quality controls for pH temperature and
00:29:10
alkalinity the limed hides are fleshed
00:29:14
to remove excess fatty tissue
00:29:29
certain leathers are now split on a band
00:29:31
knife splitter to make them level this
00:29:34
splitting process may be repeated later
00:29:36
in the tanning process as well as in the
00:29:38
finished dry State some tanners also use
00:29:41
shaving machines to make the leather
00:29:43
level the line is now removed from the
00:29:46
hides gradually lowering the pH back to
00:29:48
neutral the hides are then baited or
00:29:50
cleaned using an enzyme which was first
00:29:53
developed for the tanning industry and
00:29:55
later used in clothing detergent when
00:29:57
the hides come out of these paddles they
00:29:59
can be drive to make rawhide dog bones
00:30:01
or rawhide stamping pallets this is the
00:30:04
second major chemical process which is
00:30:06
closely controlled for pH and
00:30:08
temperature the chemistry in tanning is
00:30:10
like building a house where the
00:30:12
foundation is most important and every
00:30:14
level is dependent on the previous one
00:30:16
to ensure the highest quality the hides
00:30:19
are now placed into the tanning solution
00:30:21
which is similar to coffee here the
00:30:23
tannin molecules gradually penetrate the
00:30:25
hide fibers it is here that the carving
00:30:28
and molding characteristics of the
00:30:29
leather are set this is the major
00:30:32
chemical process in tanning taking up to
00:30:34
six weeks for vegetable tanning the
00:30:37
process must be tightly controlled on a
00:30:39
daily basis for acidity pH tannin
00:30:42
strength and purity Chrome tanning does
00:30:45
not use this step but is done instead in
00:30:48
a large drum like you will see later and
00:30:50
takes less than a day this is how the
00:30:53
vegetable tanning extract comes to the
00:30:54
tannery it is made from tree bark that
00:30:57
is soaked in hot water to extract the
00:30:59
tannins then spray dried just like
00:31:01
coffee
00:31:04
the final chemical process is done in
00:31:06
large rotating drums or mills here the
00:31:10
leather is washed bleached dyed if
00:31:12
required and fat liquored with special
00:31:14
oils to penetrate and bind to the fibers
00:31:16
these are the types of drums that are
00:31:19
used for Chrome tanning as mentioned
00:31:21
earlier the wet leather is now rung on a
00:31:24
machine with a felt-covered roller very
00:31:26
much like grandma used to use for her
00:31:28
clothing
00:31:41
the damp leather is now smoothed out on
00:31:43
a setting machine a process similar to
00:31:45
boning or ironing without heat this also
00:31:48
takes out any stretch from the leather
00:32:05
the leather is now dried on frames in
00:32:07
temperature and humidity-controlled
00:32:08
rooms over three days the leather is now
00:32:15
dry and sent to the finishing Department
00:32:17
where Hermann oak trims the leather to
00:32:19
removed unusable edges
00:32:39
finished leather will go through a large
00:32:41
press numerous times to lay it flat and
00:32:44
smooth the grain even more
00:32:55
in the old days tanners used to sell
00:32:57
tannery run which meant a mix of
00:33:00
whatever hides come from the Packer
00:33:02
nowadays the leather is sorted into
00:33:04
stacks of different grades and
00:33:05
thicknesses and sold a specific grades
00:33:07
at Hermann oak leather is sold either by
00:33:10
individual grade or by tannery run which
00:33:13
means 25% a 50% B and 25% C grades with
00:33:18
no D X or brands we keep an inventory of
00:33:23
all base leathers to make sure we can
00:33:25
always ship every customer once an order
00:33:29
is placed the leather is selected
00:33:30
specifically for that customer based on
00:33:33
type of leather thickness and mix of
00:33:35
grades
00:33:43
leathers that require exact thickness
00:33:45
will be run through a dry splitting
00:33:46
machine
00:33:51
this splitting machine is the most
00:33:52
highly calibrated machine in the tannery
00:33:54
similar to that of a stitch and also
00:33:56
oisin
00:34:16
comparing to leathers of similar
00:34:18
thickness the dry split leather will be
00:34:20
weaker than the non split leather
00:34:22
because the fiber bundles have been
00:34:23
disturbed the grain layer is for looks
00:34:26
the fiber layer is for strength when the
00:34:29
leather is ready for shipment it will go
00:34:31
through the third and final grading
00:34:32
station and is checked for overall
00:34:34
quality and whether it meets the
00:34:36
customer specifications
00:34:53
the leather is then measured and stamped
00:34:55
with the square footage
00:35:07
the measuring machine must be calibrated
00:35:10
numerous times throughout the day with
00:35:12
the round black disc to ensure accuracy
00:35:15
finally the leather is rolled or
00:35:17
palletized loaded on trucks and sent on
00:35:20
its way
00:35:38
grading of the leather is based on the
00:35:40
intended use of the leather and is
00:35:41
usually standardized by type of leather
00:35:43
in general the prime or butt area is the
00:35:47
most important part of the side and is
00:35:49
graded the most heavily followed by the
00:35:51
shoulder and then the belly for skirting
00:35:53
leather the prime butt area where the
00:35:55
saddle seat is cut is the most important
00:35:57
for tooling in holster leather the prime
00:35:59
butt area is still most important yet
00:36:02
the shoulder is also important for
00:36:03
cutting parts for harness and rain
00:36:07
leather the center section for cutting
00:36:08
traces and reins is graded equally
00:36:10
throughout the side call 1-800 Weaver
00:36:14
one to request a free copy of our latest
00:36:16
supply catalog today
00:36:29
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