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[Music]
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hi I'm Chuck Dorsett for Weaver
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leathercraft and we are going to learn
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to hand so you're gonna be amazed at how
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easy this is and how beautiful the
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outcome is because that's all we're
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looking for is an outcome now this video
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a little bit more geared towards those
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of us who are new to the crowd or those
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of us who works in leather but haven't
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stepped in hand-sewing
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here's the best part it's quick it's
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easy and it's affordable
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alright right off the bat we've got a
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hand sewing kit we're gonna work
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straight from that no fluff exactly what
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you need to start hand sewing secondly
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we're gonna use a saddle er stitch it's
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almost the only stitch I use it's
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beautiful in my opinion stronger than a
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machine stitch but here's the coolest
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part a project like this not out of our
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reach we can sell this if we have
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nothing but a kitchen table or a coffee
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table as a workspace we can make a
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briefcase one more point there look at
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that gorgeous suede that's one of our
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beautiful slates now let's do this
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saddle or stitch let's jump over to a
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pick get an idea of what we're looking
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at right off the bat look at that patent
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leather purse every bit of that is
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hand-sewn that's nothing but a weekend
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project at best what would that sell for
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the top end store journal cover holster
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we've got videos on both of those and
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the knife sheath it's a gorgeous clean
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tight stitch again looks just like a
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machine alright let's do this tedious
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yes
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sewing can be tedious but not really
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let's jump over to a quick clip from
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whether or not one of our other videos
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let's see how fast we can hand sew all
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right I'm gonna wait for my watch to get
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around to ten seconds till and let's
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start alright so with that look at that
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two and a half inches in one minute not
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as fast as the machine by any means but
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two and a half inches in a minute that's
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not bad and look at the ease and the
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outcome they're clean tight stitch
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alright anything I use in this video
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weaver leather craft comm or look below
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we've got links they're gonna take you
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straight to the website so our first
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step we're gonna add a groove line easy
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to do easy tool to pick up so let's step
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over to our pattern table drop in a
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groove line
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now the primary job of a groover is
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simply to sink literally a trench along
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the edge of our leather it's going to do
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two things for us first off it's going
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to give us a great guide for our chisel
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but secondly that's going to allow our
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stitch line to sink down into the
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leather therefore that's going to reduce
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the risk of it snagging or catching on
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anything so a groove is simply this
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we're going to take my guide arm these
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are adjustable in fact let's take a
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quick peek there this is adjustable so I
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can move my groover my groove to get my
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groove line in or out for my edge now
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you'll notice here I've got this tape
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marked with yellow because this is set
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at 1/8 of an inch therefore I only use
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this on my sewing therefore if I'm going
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to marry two pieces together I chisel
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separately we're gonna have a nice meet
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on the edge okay so with this here's our
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guide arm in our cutting head simply
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going to but the cutting arm right
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against the edge of the leather I'm
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gonna bring my hand up about 45 degrees
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and I'm going to give it a little
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counterclockwise pressure there we go
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easy enough alright so that makes a nice
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clean parallel line to our edge now we
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can make multiple passes on this but the
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problem here is we need to be careful
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because that's going to create a tab
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that's going to tear off thus the
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project no durability
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now with this I said the primary job for
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a groover is our edge but I love it on
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every project notice here I've got a
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groove line on every edge here I think
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this is a dagger frog but doesn't that
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fill that out really gives that edge of
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finished look so that's one of the few
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tools that I use for my edge work all
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right so let's jump over we're gonna do
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this two ways
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now with this we're simply going to
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marry two pieces together we're going to
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groove separate chisel separate and sew
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together
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secondly though we've got a piece here
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now this is a little different because
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sometimes we have to go a different
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route here this is going to make life
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very easy what I've done is I've glued
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my backing onto my face leather we'll
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just consider this the face because it's
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going to be very difficult if I've got a
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round corner to cut two pieces flopped
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that's gonna match so therefore laying
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that in try to glue that in get those
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two meets a big headache but what we can
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do
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is simply glue on our backing and trim
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to our body and here's a perfect example
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notice here I've got a face leather then
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I've got a suede then on the back I've
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got a backing so therefore that's gonna
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be tough to line all that up no let's
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make it easy on ourselves let's just
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drop our backing in over cut and then
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I'm simply going to use the face as my
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straight edge and you'll be amazed at
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how clean our edge is going to be there
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we go
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all right look at that clean and tight
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in fact that looks like it was die-cut
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okay so great trick there alright let's
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jump over here we're going to drop in a
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groove line we're simply going to sew
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two sides so with my groove er eighth
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inch I'm gonna run an edge there we go
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maybe two passes there we are okay easy
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enough now on this we're gonna deal with
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a square corner over here we're going to
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deal with a round corner so let's groove
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this other side there we go okay now you
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notice I'm running right off the edge
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typically I'll bevel this slick it so
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therefore that's not going to be a
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matter but you can start right from our
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corner alright let's jump over here now
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a little bit different here because with
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this we're going to sew from one side I
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don't want to drop my groove line in on
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the back because in a perfect world my
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chisel can go straight through I don't
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live in that world so what's going to
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happen is on my backside my chisel will
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probably be a little bit in or out for
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my group it's gonna look terrible but if
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we only have a stitch line here it's
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gonna look fine just like it was sewn
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okay so we've got our two pieces grooved
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now let's jump over to our courts where
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we're going to drop in our chisel line
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now we're going to use a 1/8 inch time
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1/8 inch flats my favorites what comes
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in the kit because this is what we've
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looked at thus far but let's don't write
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off a diamond hole these are gorgeous
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makes a nice a nice stitch line but also
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too on a quality point notice as my
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spread
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get smaller so does my time that's a
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Weaver tool it's a sign of a quality
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tool all right let's start without round
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corner now with this we're gonna start
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with a six with a sixteen chisel eighth
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inch spread basically that's five
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stitches per inch now four stitches
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really gets big six kind of starts to
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Groupon me to me this is the best look
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so let's start right here we're gonna
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drop in our tines right in our groove
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line there we go in fact I can actually
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feel that sit down in that line I'm
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gonna do my best to get that straight
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up-and-down there we go look at that
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clean and straight consistent from the
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edge now when we take this out usually
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putting tines through or chisel through
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is not a problem it's getting it out
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it's the problem I don't want to go left
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and right this is a quality tool not
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going to really worry about bending the
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tines but what what will happen if
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that's really gonna rain that whole open
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I don't want that so I'm going to take
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my finger put it right next to the
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leather and the chisel and I'm simply
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going to walk it out even up look how
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clean and straight that is that already
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looks good alright second I'm going to
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take the first time and I'm gonna put it
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in the last hole I can feel my chisel
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sink down into the groove line there we
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go and again I have times across but
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look how clean it's straight that is
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that's because we're keeping this tool
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is straight up and down as we can
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alright we're gonna go into a corner now
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we're gonna back down to a fourteen I'm
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going to get close to that corner first
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time last hole let's pull that out all
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right let's jump down to a two time
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because what I'm going to do is I'm
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going to put the first tine in my last
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hole and I'm simply going to mark that
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I'm going to do the same as I move
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around my corner now I could this corner
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is open enough to where I could put two
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holes in but let's use this as an
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example then we're gonna come out of our
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turn right there okay let's take our
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single time because now as I drive this
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through each hole is a consistent
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distance that's going to make our stitch
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line look very clean and tight so I'm
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gonna work my way around our corner
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there we go
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all right one
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more now I've got two more there but
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let's go one more because now I've got
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my mark I'm in a straight away I can
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jump back over to my sixth time there we
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go looking good and one more now at this
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point we're coming into a corner we can
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start on a corner or in this situation
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we can start in our corner and work out
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the problem is is I don't want to get to
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my corner and I have that much space to
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put one tine in or that much space if
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that tie is too close to that edge it's
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not going to leave enough leather there
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to remain solid so as I get close to
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this corner what I want to do is eyeball
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my stitch line right there good look at
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that alright it's a little bit short so
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what I can do is spread just a little
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bit so let's make a mark white mark I
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can see where those tines are I'm gonna
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move my chisel out just a little bit now
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over the course of three or four good
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hits look at that that brings it right
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to my corner very cool and I got plenty
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of leather there
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alright so easy enough on the round
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corner let's jump over to our square
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corner alright there's our groove we're
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gonna but this right up that looks good
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clean edge alright so let's take one
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piece I'm going to work for my corner we
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have to practice the same thing as we
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come into a square corner if we can't
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start there but what I really don't like
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is to have one time either left or right
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incoming or outgoing from that corner so
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what I'm going to do is take a one
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chisel a one time chisel and I'll drop
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it right in that corner and I'm going to
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back that right up to my groove lines
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okay from there let's take our two tine
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now what I'm going to do here is just
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like this tine was straight I'm gonna
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put the inside of the edge on the
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outside of that time just like our
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punching it let's just mark very lightly
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all right let's do the same thing on the
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other side there we go now coming out of
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that corner we're consistent so I can
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take my sex drop that right where I know
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it needs to be
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there we go we've got a consistent
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distance going around our corner first
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time last hole and again coming into our
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corner I'm just going to leave it right
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there we do have room for one more time
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same thing on this side I'm gonna work
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my way out from that corner there we go
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all right first time last hole now I'm
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going to do the same thing over here
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punch it exactly the same but when I
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punch this I'm just gonna lay this piece
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closed so that I can make sure my holes
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are consistent they're not going to get
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off first time last hole it's going to
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help but sometimes over a long distance
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we can get a little variation but again
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we've got almost an eighth of an inch
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hole there so if my holes aren't
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perfectly centered we're still okay and
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one more six let's drop that in there we
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go now I told you to do this and I
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didn't do this but let's look at that
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anyway look at those holes because I use
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first time last hole those are spot on
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so when we marry these together sewing
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it's going to be a breeze now two more
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quick points on our corner that to me
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gives us a good square corner we can
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always use a round hole the problem is
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is when we do that look how big that
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hole is compared to one of our chisel
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chisel holes it's gonna stand out like a
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sore thumb we can use an awl right down
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in that corner but to me
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angling that one tine just makes the
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whole thing look very clean very
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finished alright our chisel holes are in
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let's jump over do some hand sewing now
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a couple of tools to talk about before
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we sew this is a sewing Pony and this is
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an immense help as opposed to a sewing
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horse we actually sit on that form and
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function piece of equipment and an
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amazingly beautiful piece of furniture
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well made for us crafters little bit
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easier now I've got this clamped to my
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table the point right here is that we
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sit on this so therefore that clamp
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right in front of us very stable but for
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me the great part about this is I can
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clamp this in all manner of
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configuration on my table I can even
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limpets sideways perfect example your
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your favorite chair your most
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comfortable chair is low to the ground
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so I can take this clamp this to my
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table sideways puts that clamp right in
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front of me the point there is we don't
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want to fatigue our arms we want our
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arms to have ample room and to be in
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more of a natural position
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all right makes sense now with that I
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tend to put some leather right here on
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the clamps so that that doesn't ding or
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more my project all right clamp easy
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enough opens and closes okay next step
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Ritz a tiger thread and I love this
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thread now you're going to get three
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basic colors in the kit but we also have
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a beautiful brown red and blue with
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thought with those not make a gorgeous
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detail on a project okay braided thread
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one of my favorites very strong lastly
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sewing needles these are the John James
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and I absolutely love these extremely
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strong large eye so we can get that big
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wax thread through there but no sharp
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point it's not needed we're pre punching
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our holes and that will actually work
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against us
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alright so needles thread Pony
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let's do some sewing let's start right
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here easy enough we're gonna work with
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our round corner so I'm going to clamp
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this down in my pony and this too we can
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push this out for a wider project
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alright with our threat we're gonna
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start sewing here very shortly then
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we're going to talk about some tricks
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but with our thread I'm gonna work
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I'm gonna cut four times my link now
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with me I'd go a lot more what I don't
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want to do is get all the way down to my
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end and have two little nubs here that
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I'm gonna try to tie a knot with thread
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is relatively inexpensive it's a couple
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of pennies per three yards I think and I
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don't know if I've ever finished a spool
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alright and we're gonna use some white
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thread now it's not gonna really stand
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out as our stitch line but it's gonna be
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a lot easier to see all right so we're
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gonna choke up on our threat because
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this is that look tough to explain but
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what I want to do with this no problem
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I'm gonna pull my thread out this far
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each time the problem is say we're
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sewing a pair of chaps and I've got 40
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inches of length there that's going to
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be 12 feet of thread so what I can do is
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simply choke up on my thread and then as
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I go pay that out makes
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much easier I'm simply doing this
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between each hole okay let's get started
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then we'll do some tricks and tips now
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first off Sadler stitch this is just a
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back and forth stitch super easy easy
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you remember how to get started because
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I'm gonna take one needle and push it
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through the first hole now you'll notice
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I've got this to my left side this is
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the face or the side that we punched
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from now I'm right-handed I would
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typically typically put this on my right
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but my point there is that my holes on
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this side they're actually funnel shaped
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the hole on this side is actually
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puckered that was the bottom piece so if
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I lead from my left or my prominent hand
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that needles gonna fall right in that
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hole
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alright so let's pull that through and
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equalize that length out easy enough now
00:16:30
our second hole watch that cool needle
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falls right in so what I'll do is I'll
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start from there and I'm going to take
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my other needle there entry code get
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that in there I can open up the hole
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with this needle that second needle is
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going to fall into it
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so let's get about halfway through I'm
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gonna pull down on the eye notice how
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that makes an X okay I'm gonna take my
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fingers and go from the eye to the tip
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and pull that through there we go okay
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looks good now with tension I'm gonna
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pull that tight not super tight not as
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tight as I can get but I can feel that
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seat down in there all right let's do a
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second hole first needle in open that up
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there we go hard to find that back side
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there we are okay I've got two stitches
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very cool how easy could that be and it
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looks great very strong but let's talk
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about this now I don't want to sew down
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and back say one needle all the way down
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and back the biggest problem is that
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I've run the risk of splitting a thread
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every hole all the way back second
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problem I'm gonna do this all the way
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around then I'm going to come back doing
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it opposite therefore my tension is not
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going to be clean and easy and
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consistent like it is now notice we're
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pulling both sides looks good okay so
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let's do this we're just going to sew
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all the way around to this corner they
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were gonna hide a knot down in there
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that to me is my favorite closure but
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we're also going to do another another
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closure or two
00:17:56
all right so there we go now one more
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thing in fact let's loosen that there we
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go if you don't have a lot of strength
00:18:07
in your hands it's not going to be an
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issue because what I can do is I can
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always go with one needle pull that
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through now I'm gonna pull that back
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towards me therefore that opens that
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hole right up I don't worry about
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splitting a stitch and one more thing
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you'll notice as I sew
00:18:23
I'm gonna use my pinky to tighten my
00:18:26
thread the problem here is that over a
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distance I'm gonna burnish little lines
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in my hands that's not great so what I
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can do is I can tighten with my pinky
00:18:34
here tighten maybe the next hole with my
00:18:37
thumb the next one with my first finger
00:18:38
so therefore I'm not wearing out any
00:18:41
finger the thing is we might have some
00:18:43
distance to sew here so therefore I
00:18:45
don't want to tear out my heart my arms
00:18:47
or my hands or my fingers okay so we're
00:18:50
moving right along
00:18:51
I am simply gonna sew right down to this
00:18:54
corner all right coming down to our end
00:18:59
now with this I'm just gonna pop my glue
00:19:01
right there easy enough
00:19:03
the glue is just there long enough to
00:19:05
hold us to get our chisel in our thread
00:19:07
line in so with this I'm going to tie a
00:19:09
square knot so on our last hole I'm just
00:19:11
gonna come through my front ply pull
00:19:14
that through and same on the back pull
00:19:16
that through there we go
00:19:18
all right let's tighten that down now
00:19:20
with a square knot let's move this there
00:19:23
we go with a square knot
00:19:25
all I'm going to do is take my right go
00:19:27
over my left circle around and draw that
00:19:30
down in good and tight all right left
00:19:32
over right circle around draw that down
00:19:35
in good and tight there we go
00:19:38
very cool now we've got a little bit of
00:19:40
a bump there that's gonna be no issue
00:19:42
because we're gonna hammer our stitch
00:19:44
line down that's gonna make that look
00:19:46
very clean and consistent but also
00:19:48
that's gonna knock that knot down all
00:19:49
right
00:19:50
let's take our knife now with this I
00:19:52
never use this part of my blade so
00:19:54
therefore I'm going to drop this in now
00:19:57
I'm going to I'm not going to cut
00:19:58
through the thread I'm going to pull the
00:20:00
thread across my blade there we go nice
00:20:03
and easy flush all right we know what
00:20:06
let's see that took about maybe about 4
00:20:09
min
00:20:10
to sell wait inches that's not bad okay
00:20:12
let's set that aside we're gonna jump
00:20:15
over to our two separate pieces now what
00:20:17
I don't want to do is clamp that down in
00:20:21
my pony because now my pony is going to
00:20:23
tell me where my edges meet and not my
00:20:25
threat so let's do this let's but that
00:20:28
together let's take a clip there we go
00:20:32
and maybe just one more to get that good
00:20:35
and even once we get a couple of
00:20:37
stitches in here it's not going to be an
00:20:39
issue then the thread tells us where our
00:20:41
edges meet so let's drop that in now
00:20:44
with this a little bit different because
00:20:46
we've got a chisel coming in from both
00:20:47
sides so we're gonna have two puckers on
00:20:50
the inside but that's not really an
00:20:52
issue so let's start with one side or
00:20:54
the other and come through one needle
00:20:56
first hole easy enough and let's
00:20:58
equalize that out alright there we go
00:21:03
now from this what I'm going to do is
00:21:04
I'm going to come in from both sides
00:21:06
kind of open that hole up there we go
00:21:09
make our X and we've got a good stitch
00:21:12
draw that down same thing from here on
00:21:15
out we're going to get all the way down
00:21:16
to our end just like we did with our
00:21:18
round corner all right coming down to
00:21:25
our last hole
00:21:26
now we're gonna back stitch this is
00:21:28
exactly what a sewing machine will do
00:21:30
but it's a little bit tougher when we're
00:21:33
hand sewing because we're gonna have to
00:21:35
squeeze through two pieces of thread in
00:21:38
every hole this is okay actually it's a
00:21:41
great closure but I say it's okay
00:21:43
because to me I love that consistent
00:21:46
stitch line look then when we get down
00:21:48
here and we actually do a back stitch
00:21:50
now we've got two two threads in each
00:21:55
hole so it kind of blows that
00:21:57
consistency but nonetheless it still
00:22:00
it's going to be a good closure but
00:22:02
again a little bit tough to get those
00:22:04
needles through there because that hole
00:22:07
has already got a lot of thread in it so
00:22:10
let's see get that one in there there we
00:22:12
go alright push that through now we can
00:22:14
weaken back so three or four stitches
00:22:17
but you can see it's kind of tough to do
00:22:19
it we can we can back so three or four
00:22:23
stitches I
00:22:24
leave it right there so with my knife
00:22:26
let me grab my knife I left it on my
00:22:28
other table with my knife I'm going to
00:22:31
take this and again I'm going to use
00:22:33
this part of my my blade pull my thread
00:22:36
back across that there we go that looks
00:22:39
pretty good
00:22:40
alright so the hands sewing portion
00:22:43
easily done and looks very good fact
00:22:46
look at our meat on that how clean is
00:22:48
that edge alright we're going to jump
00:22:51
over hammer down our stitch line but
00:22:53
before we do that there's two cool
00:22:55
tricks that are going to help us out now
00:22:58
because sewing a long strap say a belt
00:23:01
or in this case a briefcase strap in
00:23:03
fact this is the shorter of the two this
00:23:05
can be a real problem because what I'm
00:23:07
gonna have to do is put into my Pony or
00:23:09
my horse and I'm gonna have to sew a
00:23:11
little bit scoot it so scoot it this is
00:23:13
going to be bending around flapping
00:23:15
around it's going to be in my way it's
00:23:17
kind of kind of frustrating so what I
00:23:19
can do is I've simply got a piece of
00:23:21
suede strap to a rafter with a clip on
00:23:24
it now I can put that clip on the end of
00:23:28
my strap and that's going to keep that
00:23:30
right in front of me so therefore I can
00:23:33
sew with my hands at a very comfortable
00:23:35
position but as I move along since this
00:23:38
is suede and exactly what saddle seats
00:23:40
are made of it's going to grip so
00:23:42
therefore I can raise that as I go and
00:23:45
move my belt or my strap up so it's
00:23:48
always right in front of me makes it
00:23:50
very easy on your hands and again we
00:23:52
could sew a long distance because we're
00:23:53
not tiring out our arms now one more
00:23:56
trick last one I promise then we're
00:23:58
going to hammer down our stitch line
00:24:00
with the with the needles you'll notice
00:24:02
as you use them you'll start to get wax
00:24:04
building up in the eye and it can be
00:24:07
hard to get that thread through so all I
00:24:09
have to do is take my two needles and a
00:24:11
lighter just run a little heat over
00:24:13
those rub that off with a cloth brand
00:24:16
new ready to go wax thread it's gonna
00:24:19
slip right through it
00:24:20
alright let's step over to our courts
00:24:22
hammer down our stitch line now when we
00:24:26
hammer down our stitch line it's going
00:24:27
to do two things right off the bat first
00:24:29
off it's going to close down our holes
00:24:31
so we see thread and not hole but
00:24:34
secondly it's going to sink that thread
00:24:36
line below the top grain but
00:24:38
cuz we've got a groove in there now we
00:24:39
used the white thread simply easier to
00:24:42
see when we're learning to hand sew but
00:24:44
I've got a sample here with our brown
00:24:46
thread so we can see it a little bit
00:24:47
better but right off the bat notice I
00:24:49
went straight into my corner and
00:24:51
straight out look at that that makes a
00:24:53
terrible jump as opposed to ours looks
00:24:57
very clean and square okay so good point
00:24:59
there but with this I can certainly use
00:25:01
a mallet I just don't want my mallet at
00:25:04
such an angle that it's gonna leave
00:25:06
hammer marks inside on my leather so all
00:25:09
I'm going to do with a tack hammer
00:25:11
hammer that line down alright
00:25:16
now I'm hoping the camera can pick this
00:25:18
up but notice the difference between our
00:25:21
stitch let's hammer down and the stitch
00:25:23
that is not looks so much cleaner so
00:25:26
much more consistent and again when I
00:25:28
run my hand across that I cannot even
00:25:30
feel the threat alright so I'm going to
00:25:33
hammer down both pieces we're done and
00:25:36
there we go both pieces look fantastic
00:25:41
now we just did two corners kept it
00:25:44
simple
00:25:44
pick up the stitch but the big point
00:25:46
here no longer out of our reach now you
00:25:50
may not start with a briefcase you
00:25:52
absolutely can but there are all manner
00:25:54
of projects out there and in fact the
00:25:56
majority of leather projects now not out
00:25:59
of our reach and that's the point I hope
00:26:01
every stitch you put in is spot-on
00:26:03
perfect good luck with your projects
00:26:07
[Music]
