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many thanks to Squarespace for
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sponsoring this week's
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video if your photos look blurry and
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soft like this instead of sharp and
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crisp like this then you're you're
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making a simple but critical mistake and
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it's ruining your shots but don't worry
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because in this video I'll show you
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exactly how to fix it see most folks
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have no idea this setting is secretly
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wrecking their images but once you
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adjust it you'll instantly get sharper
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and and cleaner photos every single time
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and be sure to stick around because at
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the end I'll reveal a a trick that even
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professional photographers use to make
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their images look Flawless every single
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time so if your photos look soft blurry
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or just not as crisp as you expected
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it's not your camera it's your settings
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most people think it's their lens or or
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that they need an expensive camera but
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that's not the problem that's not really
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what's causing the issue at all in fact
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I've seen $115,000 camera before take
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blurry photos because of this one often
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Overlook setting and if you don't fix
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this you're going to keep getting bad
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photos every time no matter how good or
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or how expensive your gear is so to jump
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right into it the problem here the
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problem is see when I used to get on
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location my first few years of of
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outdoor landscape photography I noticed
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that and I think a lot of people are
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getting into this genre of Photography
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notice that you're generally shooting in
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a in a dimmer lighting scenario or a
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more muted lighting scenario so sunrise
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or sunset or maybe Woodland photography
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these are all scenarios with a little
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bit dimmer light and worked often told
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that you know you don't want to shoot in
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harsh light you want to avoid midday
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light those kind of things so we're
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often shooting in those kind of golden
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hour or dimmer lighting scenarios and I
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would get on location and I would never
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really touch my aperture my aperture was
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always locked in at f11 and I would
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never touch my ISO cuz that ISO was
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always locked in at ISO 100 so f11 ISO
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100 and that would really only leave one
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other camera setting for me to adjust
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which was shutter speed so what would
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often happen is I'm at 11 I'm at ISO 100
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and I look at my exposure meter and I'm
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two stops underexposed so I start to
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slow down that shutter speed in order to
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let more light into the center of my
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camera to create a more balanced
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exposure and what would happen a lot of
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times is I would get that shutter speed
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too low in order to handhold that
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photograph and I would end up with
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photographs that looked like this right
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here when I would get home from a trip
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just soft and out of focus when I was
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really hoping that the image would look
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nice and crisp and sharp like this but
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the problem is this is the blurry image
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right here when you're looking at this
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on the back of your LCD you know you
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take the photograph of your own location
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you take your image you look on the back
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of your camera this is kind of a
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graphical representation of what you see
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right here and as you can tell this
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image looks fairly sharp but when you
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zoom into it you can see just how out of
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focus it actually is and you can't
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really tell how out of focus this is
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until you actually see this sharp
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version right here completely different
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so zooming in on the or looking at it in
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the back of your camera isn't always a
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good graphical representation as to
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whether or not your image is sharp or
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not that's why I always recommend don't
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just review the image but you have to
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zoom in and punch in and look for image
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sharpness and image Clarity in order to
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actually see it because these LCDs is
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amazing as they are they're still small
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they're still limited and let's face it
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none of our eyes are actually getting
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any better so that is the problem now
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the solution here the solution is it's
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it's for one once you know this little
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trick it's can will solve this problem
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in a m a second so I just got back from
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a couple workshops in the leoen islands
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one of the most common things I heard on
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that workshop and and on every Workshop
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is always related to camera settings you
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know what aperture do I need to use what
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ISO do I need to use what shutter speed
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what what shooting modes do I need to
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use and one of the biggest issues is
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with shutter speed you know I think a
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lot of people are comfortable with
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aperture you know landscape photography
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it's usually seems to be like f11 or to
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F16 and keep your ISO as low as you
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possibly can that's easy enough but to
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shut speed you know one it it's
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something that impacts creativity it
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impacts exposure it impacts whether or
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not your photograph is even sharp or not
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so there's a lot of um more angst
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associated with shutter speed so how do
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you figure out what is the best shutter
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speed for hand holding a photograph and
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you don't have to sit there and take a
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test photo and then review it on the
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back of the camera like oh no that's how
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to focus speed up your shutter speed
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take another photo review it oh that
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still looks a little bit soft let me
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speed it up a little bit you don't have
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to keep taking
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these test photos in order to do it
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there is something called the one over
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focal length Rule and it is an absolute
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Game Changer once you become comfortable
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with it it's very simple basically all
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it is is if you're shooting at let's say
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25 mm in your hand holding that
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photograph you have to have your shutter
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speed at least 12 125th of a second so
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if you're shooting it let's say 50 mm
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and you're handh holding that photograph
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your shutter speed has to be at least 1/
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15th of a second when you know that you
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don't you no longer have to experiment
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with anything when you get on location
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scenes unfolding very quickly you don't
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have time to set up a tripod you're at
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25 mm you can dial in your aperture dial
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in your ISO and you know that your
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shutter speed has to be at least 125 of
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a second so that one over focal length
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rule is huge and if you're shooting
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action say birds in flight or tigers or
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Bears or whatever the case is a great
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place to start regardless of what focal
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length you're using because things are
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moving in your scene I always start up
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1/ 1500 of a second and then usually
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will work my way up from there sometimes
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you got to go to a thousand of a second
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but I always start at 1 1500 of a second
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and I obviously take those photographs
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and review and see if that shutter speed
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is fast enough but probably the most
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important aspect of this is and I hear
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this all the time I used to do it
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constantly where I wanted to make sure
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that that ISO was as low as possible
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because I didn't want to create a noisy
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photograph so I would always leave it at
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100 and I'm looking on the back of my
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camera and I see that it's let's say two
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stops underexposed so it's a dimmer
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lighting scenario it's Sunset there's
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not a lot of ambient light and my image
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is looking very dark so instead of
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bumping up that ISO what do I do I end
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up slowing down that shutter speed to a
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point that is way too slow for me to
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handhold it so let's say I'm at at 25 mm
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and I end up doing like a half a second
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exposure in order to keep that image
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bright I review it it looks okay on the
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back of my camera I get home from my
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trip and I end up with a photograph that
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looks like this right here instead of
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this right here and it's a completely
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different it it would absolutely destroy
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a photograph now here's the most
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important part removing noise from a
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photograph is so so easy to do cameras
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are so good technology is so good it
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takes a matter of seconds and you can
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completely clean up any kind of noise in
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an image but an image that is out of
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focus like this right here due to motion
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blur there is no way to bring this image
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back no matter what kind of
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post-processing Wizardry I use no matter
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what kind of platform I used to edit it
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in nothing is going to make this photo
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sharp again but a little bit of noise is
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easy to resolve so before you crank down
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that shutter speed too low I would
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always bump up that ISO a little bit in
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order to create that balance exposure
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now to kick off this video I had
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mentioned a a pro tip that I hear a lot
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of other professional photographers use
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I use it as well and it's basically
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whenever you're shooting in a lower
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light scenario which we just discussed
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happens often do not be afraid to put
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your camera in auto ISO because that
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basically means you know you have you're
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at f11 you have your shutter speed at at
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150th of a second because you were
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shooting at 50 mm your camera will
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automatically bump up that ISO to
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whatever ISO level is required in order
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to create that balance exposure so you
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don't have to even worry about it you
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can let your camera handle that any kind
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of perceived noise that is uh is a
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result of using say ISO 640 or ISO a000
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whatever the case may be you can easily
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resolve that but you will rest assure
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that when you get home from your trip
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you will have an image that is
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absolutely Tac sharp like this right
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here as opposed to something that is
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completely out of focus and it's
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basically just going to be relegated to
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the trash can in your computer because
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it's useless it's completely out of
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focus and there's nothing you can do a
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second caveat to this might be a little
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bit obvious but whenever you're
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handholding your photograph I always
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want to enable ivis mbody image image
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stabilization on the camera and Optical
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image stabilization if your lens has it
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that right there will always add at
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least two to three stops of additional
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stability sometimes even more camera's
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uh embody image stabilization is getting
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so so good but by enabling those two
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features or even one of those features
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plus auto ISO that is going to pretty
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much guarantee you that you are going to
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get those sharp perfectly INF focused
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and clear photos that you definitely
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want it's going to help you to avoid
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those soft and outof focus photos that
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uh are the real Heartbreakers when you
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return home from a trip so I do hope
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that that information with s and before
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I do wrap things up here I just want to
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say a huge thanks to the sponsor of this
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week's video which is Squarespace who I
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use for all of my website and e-commerce
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needs Squarespace provides a robust and
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a free trial and 10% off your first
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purchase so I do hope that that
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information was helpful it's something
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that I hear about all the time and that
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one over focal length rule is something
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that a lot of people aren't aware of I I
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hear about it all the time and it is
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something and and then I'll meet with
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people at a workshop we'll go over this
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we'll practice this in the field and
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I'll get emails from them months later
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maybe even a year later and they always
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refer back to that one over focal length
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rule just completely simplified shutter
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speed and has taken a lot of angst out
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of determining what's the best camera
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setting for a scenario but most
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importantly it has helped them to
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achieve those sharp Focus or sharply
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focused images whenever they're
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reviewing in at home and the amount of
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images that are blurry and out of focus
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are drastically reduced from that one
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simple rule so I do hope that
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information was helpful if if you have
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any questions about anything covered
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here today please leave those in the
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comment section below and I'll do my
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best to get back in touch with you as
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soon as humanly possible and if you
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enjoyed this week's video give it a
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thumbs up subscribe to the channel if
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you're not subscribed already and as
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always I really do appreciate you
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carving out a little bit of time to
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spend it with me here today and I will
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see you all next Wednesday bye