Thom Browne’s Entire Design Process, From Sketch to Dress | Vogue

00:10:02
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VVbD2dXS4gw

Summary

TLDRTom Brown oferece uma visão íntima do processo de criação de sua coleção de moda, que se inspira na história da Arca de Noé. Ele começa com esboços conceituais, focando em formas e proporções, e discute a importância do ajuste das peças. A coleção utiliza tecidos Harris Tweed, conhecidos por sua durabilidade e qualidade. O processo de finalização é detalhado, com ênfase na escolha cuidadosa dos modelos para o desfile, que busca desafiar as normas de gênero. O evento em Paris é uma celebração do trabalho em equipe e da arte da moda, culminando em um desfile que é tanto uma apresentação quanto uma experiência emocional.

Takeaways

  • 🎨 Inspiração na Arca de Noé
  • ✂️ Processo de esboço a vestuário
  • 👗 Uso de tecidos Harris Tweed
  • 📏 Importância do ajuste e proporção
  • 👫 Casting que desafia normas de gênero
  • ✨ Detalhes de finalização em bullion
  • 🐾 Acessórios inspirados em animais
  • 🏛️ Desfile em Paris como celebração
  • 🤝 Trabalho em equipe essencial
  • 🛍️ Vendas iniciam após o desfile

Timeline

  • 00:00:00 - 00:10:02

    Tom Brown compartilha o processo criativo por trás de sua coleção, que se inspira na ideia da Arca de Noé, apresentando looks para homens e mulheres em pares. Os esboços iniciais são conceituais, focando em formas e silhuetas, como saias plissadas e casacos. O processo de ajuste com muslin é crucial para garantir que as proporções e o caimento sejam adequados. A coleção utiliza principalmente tecidos Harris Tweed, conhecidos por sua durabilidade e qualidade ao longo do tempo. Após a confecção das amostras, a equipe se prepara para a apresentação em Paris, onde os looks são finalizados à mão. A escolha dos modelos é importante para refletir a ideia de pares, desafiando as percepções tradicionais de gênero. O acabamento dos looks é meticuloso, com detalhes em bullion e acessórios inspirados nos animais da Arca de Noé. O cenário do desfile é projetado para evocar a narrativa da coleção, e a equipe se dedica a ensaios para garantir que tudo ocorra perfeitamente no dia do desfile. Após o evento, Tom expressa sua gratidão à equipe e reflete sobre a experiência, destacando a importância de apresentar a coleção ao público.

Mind Map

Video Q&A

  • Qual é a inspiração para a coleção?

    A coleção é inspirada na história da Arca de Noé, com a ideia de pares.

  • Que tipo de tecidos são usados na coleção?

    A coleção é baseada principalmente em tecidos Harris Tweed.

  • Como é o processo de ajuste das roupas?

    O ajuste é feito com muslin, permitindo ver como as peças se encaixam no corpo.

  • Qual é a importância do casting para o desfile?

    O casting é importante para garantir que os pares de modelos se complementem e questionem as normas de gênero.

  • Como são feitas as finalizações das peças?

    As finalizações incluem detalhes como bordados e acabamentos em bullion.

  • O que acontece após o desfile?

    As vendas começam no dia seguinte ao desfile, e a coleção é vista como uma celebração do trabalho em equipe.

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  • 00:00:05
    hi I'm Tom Brown I am giving you an
  • 00:00:09
    intimate look into the steps that takes
  • 00:00:12
    me from conceptual sketch through
  • 00:00:14
    fittings to Paris to the actual runways
  • 00:00:18
    this is sketch to dress the simple idea
  • 00:00:26
    for this collection really started from
  • 00:00:28
    the idea of Noah's Ark this being a show
  • 00:00:30
    with both men and women I wanted it to
  • 00:00:33
    be the idea of pairs it came from the
  • 00:00:37
    sophomoric idea of the guy and the girl
  • 00:00:39
    looking the same and I thought well
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    Noah's Ark with the animals two by two
  • 00:00:44
    coming out of the ark the sketches are
  • 00:00:46
    very conceptual at the beginning they
  • 00:00:49
    really start with shapes the pleated
  • 00:00:52
    skirt would be more of a like a triangle
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    a square would be more of a shorter
  • 00:00:57
    jacket a rectangle would be more of an
  • 00:00:59
    outerwear piece the look that you will
  • 00:01:01
    be seeing it's basically taking the
  • 00:01:03
    classic pleated skirt but actually
  • 00:01:06
    pulling the pleated skirt to be worn as
  • 00:01:10
    almost like a halter top and then the
  • 00:01:13
    coat and the shirt of the look being the
  • 00:01:16
    skirt for the the look and then the
  • 00:01:18
    sport code actually just on her
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    shoulders and his shoulders too I
  • 00:01:23
    sketched this way because I can actually
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    illustrate you know at all then I do get
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    with my teams and then it turns into a
  • 00:01:31
    more workable sketch
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    from that conversation the pattern
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    pieces created by the pattern maker who
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    I've been working with for a long time
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    who is a genius pattern maker then the
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    muslin is made from those pattern pieces
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    and then the pattern pieces and the
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    muslin is fit on the actual model the
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    muslin process is important just it's a
  • 00:01:58
    working tool it's really taking the idea
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    of what the looks should turn into and
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    fitting the garment on the body the most
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    important thing is to see that the
  • 00:02:09
    proportion is working to see that it
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    actually fits to see that it's something
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    that's interesting in actuality as
  • 00:02:16
    opposed to just on paper so many of my
  • 00:02:20
    collections do start from the idea of
  • 00:02:22
    how am I gonna make the gray suit
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    interesting again the idea of uniformity
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    that most people think is not
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    interesting or very constricting and
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    showing it to people in a way that it
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    almost turns into living art for me that
  • 00:02:38
    is where really every collection starts
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    it's from that very simple idea once the
  • 00:02:45
    proportion and the fit is perfected then
  • 00:02:47
    it really just comes down to then
  • 00:02:48
    fabricating this collection is based on
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    primarily Harris Tweed fabrics
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    I like the structured nature of the
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    fabrics to be worn and to almost get
  • 00:03:00
    better with time the mill that we
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    actually get it from this story is that
  • 00:03:05
    you won't appreciate it your your son
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    won't appreciate it your grandson will
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    actually appreciate the cashmere that's
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    how good it gets over time for this
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    particular look there are a lot of
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    different specific finishings in regards
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    to it's not a full gray flannel skirt it
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    code actually is in a rep stripe navy
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    Duchess satin that is tipped in red
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    white and blue bullion tipping and then
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    we go into making the samples ninety
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    percent of everything is finished here
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    and then flown to Paris we should be
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    finishing that too
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    engine next week and then everybody
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    heads to Paris
  • 00:03:44
    [Music]
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    this is my Atelier here in Paris I have
  • 00:04:02
    a year-round we have a showroom here as
  • 00:04:04
    well this is where we do all the hand
  • 00:04:06
    finishing we have about two days to this
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    job we are fitting the look that we've
  • 00:04:12
    been talking about through this story
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    things are fitting well thank God
  • 00:04:16
    everybody's looking good constructing it
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    is you know ours in regards to you know
  • 00:04:23
    having people hand tailor in hand Stitch
  • 00:04:25
    the conceptual pieces together in order
  • 00:04:27
    for it to actually fit as well as it
  • 00:04:28
    needs to fit casting for the show was
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    important because I wanted to make sure
  • 00:04:35
    that the pairings work together making
  • 00:04:38
    sure that you saw pairs that you had to
  • 00:04:40
    question which one was the man and which
  • 00:04:42
    one was the woman it was important for
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    me to have for this look particularly
  • 00:04:47
    two models that actually could really
  • 00:04:49
    carry it this look I am actually going
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    to put at the beginning of the show
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    because it is so important to the idea
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    of what the collection is all about with
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    my shows because it are not traditional
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    shows it's nice when they're more
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    comfortable being able to do something
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    different so that is probably the most
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    important thing in casting is working
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    with people that actually can perform
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    and send up the way
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    [Music]
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    finishing for me for anything that I do
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    in my shows is really important the
  • 00:05:22
    finishing in regards to the tipping is
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    done in bullion as opposed to a more
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    simpler grosgrain finishing the inserts
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    and the plates are a silk insert it's a
  • 00:05:32
    really specially made piece of clothing
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    the accessories are well they're all
  • 00:05:37
    based on you know animals from Noah's
  • 00:05:40
    our the idea of making bags in the shape
  • 00:05:42
    of animals did specifically start with
  • 00:05:44
    Hector I've been making the Hector bags
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    for a couple seasons now and we have an
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    amazing factory that can actualize these
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    type of bags it was a perfect way of you
  • 00:05:54
    know playing with the story of Noah's
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    Ark there's a rabbit there's a deer
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    there's an ostrich there's thirty-three
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    different types of animals I don't know
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    specifically if all of them were
  • 00:06:05
    actually in New York but they were in my
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    eyes
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    [Applause]
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    it shows that the Bo's are here in Paris
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    it's a beautiful venue I love being able
  • 00:06:20
    to put these stories in front of people
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    the set is really playing with the story
  • 00:06:24
    of these animals coming from Noah's Ark
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    a beautiful winter set with two doors on
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    the set that represent coming from the
  • 00:06:32
    past and going into the future you know
  • 00:06:34
    we have such a short amount of time in
  • 00:06:36
    regards to rehearsing with the models on
  • 00:06:38
    the day of the show making sure the
  • 00:06:40
    choreography is working and just getting
  • 00:06:43
    ready so you can walk a bit slower and
  • 00:06:47
    you have to keep your distance keep your
  • 00:06:50
    distance with the couple in front of you
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    you walk not too fast and you walk
  • 00:06:54
    through the first door it's not the same
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    partner in the finale as in during the
  • 00:07:00
    show so don't be panicked we put you
  • 00:07:03
    with the correct partner half of the
  • 00:07:11
    hair is silicone coated and the back of
  • 00:07:13
    the hair is really er they are veiled in
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    this a beautiful veiling that has the
  • 00:07:19
    embroidery of the animals and then the
  • 00:07:21
    makeup is very simple and very you know
  • 00:07:23
    sculptured on the face but nothing to
  • 00:07:27
    you know overly dramatic
  • 00:07:29
    we do have professional dressers that we
  • 00:07:33
    are very serious in regards to making
  • 00:07:35
    sure they know how to put the look on
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    you know up to even to the point of
  • 00:07:41
    where to put the tie bar on the tie the
  • 00:07:43
    moment before the show there is some
  • 00:07:45
    anxiety but it is the time that I love
  • 00:07:48
    and I love being able to put the story
  • 00:07:50
    in front of people but I also wanted to
  • 00:07:52
    be perfect because there's so much time
  • 00:07:54
    and effort that we all put it into these
  • 00:07:57
    20 minutes that I want to make sure it's
  • 00:07:58
    as perfect as possible
  • 00:08:14
    [Music]
  • 00:08:59
    during the show I can't do much so I
  • 00:09:02
    just like kind of enjoy it with
  • 00:09:03
    everybody else we start sales the day
  • 00:09:06
    after the show and I do love people
  • 00:09:08
    entertaining these as real clothing as
  • 00:09:11
    conceptual as they are it is shown on a
  • 00:09:13
    body so it is something that I would
  • 00:09:15
    love for people to be able to see in
  • 00:09:17
    real life I have to say after the shows
  • 00:09:21
    I I love the experience I just want to
  • 00:09:24
    make sure that everybody especially my
  • 00:09:25
    team gets the appreciation that they
  • 00:09:28
    deserve for all the hard work we all get
  • 00:09:31
    to just appreciate what we get to do the
  • 00:09:33
    show actually is the closure for this
  • 00:09:36
    collection there's a little bit of
  • 00:09:37
    downtime but it's it's on the next
  • 00:09:45
    [Music]
Tags
  • Tom Brown
  • moda
  • Arca de Noé
  • coleção
  • Harris Tweed
  • ajuste
  • desfile
  • Paris
  • estilo
  • design