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hi I'm Tom Brown I am giving you an
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intimate look into the steps that takes
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me from conceptual sketch through
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fittings to Paris to the actual runways
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this is sketch to dress the simple idea
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for this collection really started from
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the idea of Noah's Ark this being a show
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with both men and women I wanted it to
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be the idea of pairs it came from the
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sophomoric idea of the guy and the girl
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looking the same and I thought well
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Noah's Ark with the animals two by two
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coming out of the ark the sketches are
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very conceptual at the beginning they
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really start with shapes the pleated
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skirt would be more of a like a triangle
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a square would be more of a shorter
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jacket a rectangle would be more of an
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outerwear piece the look that you will
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be seeing it's basically taking the
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classic pleated skirt but actually
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pulling the pleated skirt to be worn as
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almost like a halter top and then the
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coat and the shirt of the look being the
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skirt for the the look and then the
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sport code actually just on her
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shoulders and his shoulders too I
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sketched this way because I can actually
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illustrate you know at all then I do get
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with my teams and then it turns into a
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more workable sketch
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from that conversation the pattern
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pieces created by the pattern maker who
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I've been working with for a long time
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who is a genius pattern maker then the
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muslin is made from those pattern pieces
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and then the pattern pieces and the
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muslin is fit on the actual model the
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muslin process is important just it's a
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working tool it's really taking the idea
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of what the looks should turn into and
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fitting the garment on the body the most
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important thing is to see that the
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proportion is working to see that it
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actually fits to see that it's something
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that's interesting in actuality as
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opposed to just on paper so many of my
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collections do start from the idea of
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how am I gonna make the gray suit
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interesting again the idea of uniformity
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that most people think is not
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interesting or very constricting and
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showing it to people in a way that it
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almost turns into living art for me that
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is where really every collection starts
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it's from that very simple idea once the
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proportion and the fit is perfected then
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it really just comes down to then
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fabricating this collection is based on
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primarily Harris Tweed fabrics
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I like the structured nature of the
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fabrics to be worn and to almost get
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better with time the mill that we
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actually get it from this story is that
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you won't appreciate it your your son
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won't appreciate it your grandson will
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actually appreciate the cashmere that's
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how good it gets over time for this
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particular look there are a lot of
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different specific finishings in regards
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to it's not a full gray flannel skirt it
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code actually is in a rep stripe navy
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Duchess satin that is tipped in red
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white and blue bullion tipping and then
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we go into making the samples ninety
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percent of everything is finished here
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and then flown to Paris we should be
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finishing that too
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engine next week and then everybody
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heads to Paris
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[Music]
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this is my Atelier here in Paris I have
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a year-round we have a showroom here as
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well this is where we do all the hand
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finishing we have about two days to this
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job we are fitting the look that we've
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been talking about through this story
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things are fitting well thank God
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everybody's looking good constructing it
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is you know ours in regards to you know
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having people hand tailor in hand Stitch
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the conceptual pieces together in order
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for it to actually fit as well as it
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needs to fit casting for the show was
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important because I wanted to make sure
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that the pairings work together making
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sure that you saw pairs that you had to
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question which one was the man and which
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one was the woman it was important for
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me to have for this look particularly
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two models that actually could really
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carry it this look I am actually going
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to put at the beginning of the show
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because it is so important to the idea
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of what the collection is all about with
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my shows because it are not traditional
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shows it's nice when they're more
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comfortable being able to do something
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different so that is probably the most
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important thing in casting is working
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with people that actually can perform
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and send up the way
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[Music]
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finishing for me for anything that I do
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in my shows is really important the
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finishing in regards to the tipping is
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done in bullion as opposed to a more
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simpler grosgrain finishing the inserts
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and the plates are a silk insert it's a
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really specially made piece of clothing
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the accessories are well they're all
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based on you know animals from Noah's
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our the idea of making bags in the shape
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of animals did specifically start with
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Hector I've been making the Hector bags
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for a couple seasons now and we have an
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amazing factory that can actualize these
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type of bags it was a perfect way of you
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know playing with the story of Noah's
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Ark there's a rabbit there's a deer
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there's an ostrich there's thirty-three
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different types of animals I don't know
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specifically if all of them were
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actually in New York but they were in my
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eyes
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[Applause]
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it shows that the Bo's are here in Paris
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it's a beautiful venue I love being able
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to put these stories in front of people
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the set is really playing with the story
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of these animals coming from Noah's Ark
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a beautiful winter set with two doors on
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the set that represent coming from the
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past and going into the future you know
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we have such a short amount of time in
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regards to rehearsing with the models on
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the day of the show making sure the
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choreography is working and just getting
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ready so you can walk a bit slower and
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you have to keep your distance keep your
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distance with the couple in front of you
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you walk not too fast and you walk
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through the first door it's not the same
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partner in the finale as in during the
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show so don't be panicked we put you
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with the correct partner half of the
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hair is silicone coated and the back of
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the hair is really er they are veiled in
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this a beautiful veiling that has the
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embroidery of the animals and then the
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makeup is very simple and very you know
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sculptured on the face but nothing to
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you know overly dramatic
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we do have professional dressers that we
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are very serious in regards to making
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sure they know how to put the look on
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you know up to even to the point of
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where to put the tie bar on the tie the
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moment before the show there is some
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anxiety but it is the time that I love
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and I love being able to put the story
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in front of people but I also wanted to
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be perfect because there's so much time
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and effort that we all put it into these
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20 minutes that I want to make sure it's
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as perfect as possible
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[Music]
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during the show I can't do much so I
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just like kind of enjoy it with
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everybody else we start sales the day
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after the show and I do love people
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entertaining these as real clothing as
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conceptual as they are it is shown on a
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body so it is something that I would
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love for people to be able to see in
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real life I have to say after the shows
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I I love the experience I just want to
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make sure that everybody especially my
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team gets the appreciation that they
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deserve for all the hard work we all get
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to just appreciate what we get to do the
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show actually is the closure for this
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collection there's a little bit of
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downtime but it's it's on the next
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[Music]