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hello welcome back in this talk we are
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going to talk about the equations of
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motion these are the equations and that
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governed all the motion in the ocean
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in this talk we're going to focus on
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acceleration and the acceleration terms
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that affect the motion in the ocean then
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in the next talk we're going to see how
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the acceleration is affected by the
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pressure gradient force gravity Coriolis
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friction and other forces talking about
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forces let's think about forces again
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for a second so what do forces do well
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if we think back to lab one we saw that
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force is equal to mass times
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acceleration F equals MA that is
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Newton's second law and we can put that
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into words and we see that a net force
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causes an object to accelerate with an
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acceleration directly proportional to
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the size of the force so looking over
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here at this diagram we see that the
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acceleration here on the y axis and the
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force on the x axis if we increase our
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force we increase our acceleration
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proportionately so if we increase the
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force the acceleration increases
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proportionally we have a linear
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relationship between force and
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acceleration so if you push harder on
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something it will accelerate more this
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is Newton's second law F equals MA so
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now for a particle of mass M if we
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divide through by m right here we end up
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with the acceleration equals 1 over m
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times the sum of those forces F net all
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right we're going to use this expression
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right here to develop the equations of
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motion that govern the ocean all right
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so we're
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starting with the idea that acceleration
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equals force over mass Newton's second
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law and that's great when we're talking
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about a baseball or a box when we're
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looking at something simple we're doing
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it our intro physics classes however
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we're talking about the ocean and the
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ocean isn't a ball it's not a box it's a
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fluid so we can't talk about its mass
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instead we talk about its mass per unit
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volume
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similarly we talk about the force per
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unit volume so the mass per unit volume
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we know is the density where the density
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is the mass over the volume and if we
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rewrite this expression using instead of
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mass using the mass per volume or the
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density and instead of force using the
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force per volume we get that our
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acceleration equals 1 over the density
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times the force per volume and just to
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check to make sure that this doesn't
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affect satisfy Newton's second law we
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can put bring this expression down here
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and we're going to now replace the
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density right here I'm going to replace
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this density by a mass over the volume
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and it's 1 over that so instead of
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writing mass over volume if I put 1 over
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that I end up with the volume over the
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mass multiplying that by the force over
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the volume and I realize I can cancel my
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volumes and so what I'm left with right
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here is equal to 1 over the mass times
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the force which is exactly what we had
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to begin with Newton's second law
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alright so using our expression let's
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get started alright so we have inwards
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here this acceleration right here is
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equal to 1 over the density times the
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sum of the forces and those forces we're
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familiar with those now
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gravity and pressure gradient force in
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Coriolis and friction and any other
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forces that are acting in the direction
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that we are interested in so let's focus
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first on the acceleration all right we
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remember back to lab one again that the
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acceleration is equal to the change in
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the velocity with time so it's the
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change in the velocity with time and we
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can write that as the acceleration is
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equal to the change in the velocity over
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the change in time and we remember that
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if we allow delta T to go to zero this
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becomes
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dv/dt we can also remember that the
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velocity itself is the change in the
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position over time so if we think about
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this velocity here as the change in the
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position with time we can get that the
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velocity equals the change in the
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position which I'll go ahead and do as a
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Y so that'll be dy DT alright let's do a
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little review reminding ourselves about
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this velocity and how we talk about the
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velocity vector in the ocean so we
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remember that the velocity vector in the
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ocean is divided into three different
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dimensions and the first direction that
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we have is our X Direction or east-west
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direction our zonal direction and for
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that we talk about the u velocity that's
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the U velocities for the X component of
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our velocity now in the north-south or
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the Y direction that's our Meridian ol
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direction and what's important in this
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case what we call this component of our
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velocity is V so we use V in the
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north-south direction and in the
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vertical direction the up/down direction
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the Z direction we use W so the three
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components of our velocity vector u V
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and W now if we look at this diagram
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right here the other thing that we see
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is that the velocity itself as I
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mentioned is the change in the position
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with time so we can also say that u
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equals DX DT
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and say that me equals T Y DT and we can
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say that W equals D Z DT all right let's
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start thinking about acceleration so the
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acceleration in the x-direction is going
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to be d u dt the acceleration the
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y-direction will be DV DT and the
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acceleration in the Z direction will be
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DW DT I've used capital D's here because
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what we're going to need to do is take
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the total derivative so let's look at
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that and understand what's going on by
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starting in the x-direction so in the
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x-direction we have d u DG again I said
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this is called the total derivative
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because U is not just a function of time
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you could be a function of many things
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it could be a function of X it could be
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a function of Y it could be a function
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of Z and it could also be a function of
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time so if we want to look at how at U
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as a function of I want take the
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derivative of this knowing that U is a
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function of X Y Z and T then if we take
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the total derivative of U with respect
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to time what we need to do is take the
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partial derivative of U with respect to
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X first and then we can't just do that
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because we need the derivative with
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respect to time so we have to do the
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chain rule and du DX DT
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now we also need to take the different
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partial derivative of U with respect to
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Y and we also need to take the chain
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rule so we do do you.why DT and we can
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take the partial derivative of U with
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respect to Z and again the chain rule
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gives us DZ
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tt and then we still now to take do you
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tt and we can write the chain rule here
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if we want to TT TT but we know that's
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just one so what we get is du DT equals
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D u DX DX DT Plus D u dy dy DT Plus D u
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DZ DZ DT Plus D u DT now what we notice
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is that as we just pointed out right
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here we have DX DT well that we know is
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just u so this part right here is just
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du u DX times you alright well right
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here we have two Y DT well that we just
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saw is V so this is do you do you Y
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times V and right here we have DZ DT and
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we know that that is just W so this is
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do you DZ times W and then right here we
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just have do you DT so this is now the
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total derivative that we get when we
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bring all of these pieces together all
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right so if we take control the
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derivative of U with respect to T and we
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get what we just had a second ago then
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we can rewrite this and bring Beauty to
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the front and just rearrange our terms
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so we have du DT plus u 2 u DX plus V du
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u dy plus w du u DZ and this is what we
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call the total derivative so expanding
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that out in all three dimensions we see
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what we have 4x and then we can also
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look how we can break this down the very
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first term here Dutt that is what we
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call our local acceleration that's if we
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were just floating along with the water
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parcel that's how it is changing in time
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the other terms these terms here are our
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field acceleration terms this is the
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advection terms but what we mean here is
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if we're looking at this as a field and
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we're looking out at the ocean at
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different points and we see that the
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velocity might change in might be
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changing spatially and so it is the
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these are the infection terms or the
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field acceleration terms looking at
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these pictorially we see right here we
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have our local acceleration which is
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just the simple acceleration that we
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talk about normally where we have our
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change in our velocity with time and
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that gives us an acceleration so in this
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example if as we're going from point X
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to point point x1 to point x2 to point X
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3 we see that we're going there faster
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from point x1 to point x2 then we are
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from point x2 to point X 3 so v1 is
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faster than v2 and so our acceleration
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is in the opposite direction this is our
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local acceleration this is d UDT if we
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look at the infection terms what we see
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in this case is that as we're changing
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the field as we're moving to a different
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point in the field that is when our
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velocity is changing if we're changing
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in terms of where we are in X we see
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that the velocity changes based on where
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we are in X so those are the advection
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terms or the field acceleration terms
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all right so that's that's all I have
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for you for acceleration next we're
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going to get into looking at the rest of
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these terms we have gravity pressure
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gradient force Coriolis for
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and other forces