00:00:01
[Music]
00:00:08
they may seem like great deals but there
00:00:10
is a high cost to fast
00:00:27
fashion the term fast fashion has become
00:00:30
word for kind of DOI
00:00:32
practices fast fashion brands don't want
00:00:35
you to look beyond the
00:00:38
fabric fast fashion has engendered a
00:00:42
rise in informality a rise in
00:00:44
precarity right from the design of a
00:00:47
dress it's a speedy
00:00:49
operation the whole process from order
00:00:51
to delivery 12
00:00:53
days to its manufacturer in sweat shops
00:00:56
in the heart of England
00:01:00
I will be paid how much after 2 weeks 3
00:01:04
3 per
00:01:06
hour to the demands of mass
00:01:14
production actually they are just
00:01:15
physical disabled she's only 26 year
00:01:20
old pulling at the thread of these
00:01:22
shockingly priced garments is quickly
00:01:25
exposing the Dark Side of cheap fashion
00:01:31
[Music]
00:01:49
the planet is being overwhelmed with
00:01:51
clothes close to 56 million tons of
00:01:54
clothes are sold every year in Europe
00:01:57
the amount purchased has almost doubled
00:01:59
since the year
00:02:03
[Music]
00:02:06
2000 today the textile industry is
00:02:09
valued at about $3
00:02:11
trillion it has grown exponentially
00:02:14
there's some numbers that say it's Quint
00:02:16
Tuple in volume it's absolutely crazy
00:02:19
the figures that I have seen uh estimate
00:02:21
that by 2030 the industry will expand by
00:02:24
an additional
00:02:27
60% production costs have fallen
00:02:32
and thanks to fast disposable fashion
00:02:35
you can constantly renew your
00:02:38
wardrobe fast fashion it's the Commerce
00:02:41
of very inexpensive clothing that you
00:02:45
are expected or you're ready to replace
00:02:49
very rapidly it's very typical for uh
00:02:54
the fashion forward buyer to never wear
00:02:56
an outfit that they purchased you will
00:02:58
wear something once once or twice or
00:03:00
maybe
00:03:02
[Music]
00:03:05
never clothes are so cheap it's as if
00:03:08
they grow on trees a disaster for the
00:03:11
environment how did it come to
00:03:14
this the very first to practice
00:03:17
disposable fashion was a small Spanish
00:03:19
brand that is now dominating the
00:03:21
industry Zara has more than 2,000 shops
00:03:25
in almost 100 countries
00:03:40
for
00:03:48
[Music]
00:04:05
a rather discreet giant Zara was founded
00:04:08
in aunia in the north of Spain far from
00:04:11
the Splendor of Madrid and Barcelona the
00:04:14
capital of Galia is an average sized
00:04:17
city yet it is where Zara's parent
00:04:19
company inditex is based despite the
00:04:23
lack of signs to indicate its presence
00:04:25
in the
00:04:26
city the headquarters nicknamed The Q
00:04:30
is an anonymous building in the
00:04:31
industrial estate Zara berska
00:04:35
Stradivarius and masimo duty all the
00:04:38
group's brands are based
00:04:43
here at the cube on this spring Day
00:04:46
2016 Amano Ortega celebrates his 80th
00:04:51
birthday the founder of Zara Reigns over
00:04:53
an Empire of 7,500 shops and 170,000
00:04:58
employees
00:05:00
it accumulates nearly €3 billion e in
00:05:02
annual
00:05:08
profits Amano Orga represents the sixth
00:05:12
largest fortune in the world allergic to
00:05:15
media exposure he has never given a
00:05:17
single interview Zara also refused to
00:05:20
participate in this
00:05:28
film aier Caramelo is one of the few to
00:05:31
have witnessed amancio Orga in his early
00:05:35
years Javier was one of his first
00:05:38
Associates before founding his own brand
00:05:43
[Music]
00:06:05
Zara's story is one of Revenge the Galan
00:06:09
small provincials against the luxury
00:06:13
industry in the' 60s amania Orga was a
00:06:16
young ambitious but poor fashion
00:06:18
designer he was looking for that
00:06:20
brilliant idea that would allow him to
00:06:22
break
00:06:25
through in 1968 he went to Paris with
00:06:28
Javier Caramelo
00:06:54
spe
00:07:28
the trip to Paris was a a trigger rather
00:07:30
than creating original designs amancio
00:07:33
Orga was inspired by what already had
00:07:36
proven to work in an old garage he
00:07:38
opened his first Workshop
00:08:06
customers were dreaming of luxury
00:08:08
amancio orga's first success was
00:08:10
inspired by a top-of the range design
00:08:13
sold at a much lower price
00:08:43
in order to be more efficient than the
00:08:45
competition Zara has set up a unique
00:08:50
system the brand manages almost the
00:08:53
entire production chain from factories
00:08:56
to shops it can then impose its harsh
00:08:58
standards
00:09:03
Z
00:09:32
common sense but above all effective
00:09:35
marketing ideas that have revolutionize
00:09:37
the world of fashion
00:10:08
Zara hardly does any advertising its
00:10:11
locations in the heart of cities and the
00:10:14
customers bags are the best showcase for
00:10:16
the
00:10:27
brand it's prayer for former
00:10:30
collaborators to reveal the secrets of
00:10:32
this Spanish giant for 3 years this
00:10:35
French designer worked for inditex she
00:10:38
designed jeans for berska the group's
00:10:41
brand that targets a younger cantel
00:11:02
no time wasted making it virtually
00:11:04
impossible to produce original
00:11:10
designs so the designers go undercover
00:11:12
on Journeys shamelessly described as
00:11:15
inspirational
00:11:47
[Music]
00:11:50
designers buy the clothes to adapt them
00:11:53
into a lowcost version with very precise
00:11:56
specifications
00:12:26
from time to time small designers have
00:12:28
enough and attempt to take index to
00:12:32
court but few cases go all the
00:12:39
way one brand refused to back down as
00:12:43
its name suggests Reigns is a rainwear
00:12:45
brand the Danish company manufactures
00:12:48
macintoshes which are sold in over 20
00:12:57
countries that's one hang in
00:13:03
schol you
00:13:09
good these are yeah these are the
00:13:11
evidence yeah Daniel bricks the founder
00:13:14
designed the Brand's biggest success
00:13:16
this green Macintosh product which is
00:13:18
all about so this is one of our classic
00:13:20
paracka coats very recognizable one of
00:13:22
our key Silhouettes well this was
00:13:24
actually one of the pictures we did uh
00:13:26
when we discovered the the the copy in
00:13:28
the market
00:13:30
so here we have two twins wearing the
00:13:32
same jacket fortunately one of the twins
00:13:34
bought the sarra jacket and uh the other
00:13:37
tr have the original
00:13:40
range on the right the original on the
00:13:43
left Zara's version produced at lower
00:13:47
[Music]
00:13:50
cost the design has been stolen for sure
00:13:53
I don't even kind of understand the
00:13:55
motivation of doing something which is
00:13:56
so similar since it's so easy to do
00:13:59
something which is a bit different like
00:14:01
everybody else do but in this case they
00:14:03
have made a product which is oneon-one
00:14:05
the
00:14:06
same a clear example of a copy without
00:14:09
the seven differences imposed by Zara's
00:14:11
lawyers such an accident should not have
00:14:14
happened the firm's legal department has
00:14:17
full authority to refuse a garment
00:14:19
deemed too risky
00:14:21
[Music]
00:14:49
a high price to challenge this Spanish
00:14:54
giant but Reigns has done well for
00:14:57
itself the Danes decide to sue for
00:15:02
plagiarism while a case like this cannot
00:15:04
be done for for less than 300,000 euros
00:15:07
and even more than that so it's it's
00:15:09
it's relatively
00:15:10
expensive we hired in private detectives
00:15:13
in China to find out informations about
00:15:16
the whole process of applicating our
00:15:18
products we have two factories
00:15:20
confirming that they were instructed
00:15:23
through an production agent that they
00:15:25
were to make the same jacket as ours for
00:15:28
the customer Sarah in in
00:15:32
Spain in the spring of 2020 after 3
00:15:35
years of proceedings Zara was found
00:15:38
guilty by the Danish courts The Firm
00:15:40
will have to reimburse the commercial
00:15:42
damage and agree not to imitate the
00:15:44
Reigns trademark
00:15:46
[Music]
00:15:53
again dressing well to be socially
00:15:55
accepted the logic dates back today over
00:15:59
half of Instagram posts are fashion and
00:16:01
beauty related Kami Colin is a social
00:16:05
media icon who goes by the name of
00:16:08
noita every day she posts videos and
00:16:11
photos on social networking platforms
00:16:18
[Music]
00:16:26
[Music]
00:16:44
f
00:16:56
[Music]
00:17:00
an uncontrollable need to shop
00:17:02
encouraged by big
00:17:05
[Music]
00:17:08
Brands who know how to control specific
00:17:11
regions of the
00:17:16
brain this is at the heart of the work
00:17:18
of this American researcher a specialist
00:17:21
in Acts of shopping on the brain and
00:17:23
neuromarketing
00:17:25
[Music]
00:17:30
there's an area that is just about here
00:17:32
that is called the vental strum or the
00:17:34
nucleus succumbs and this is a part of
00:17:36
the brain that is often associated with
00:17:38
reward processing or positive emotions
00:17:40
so most of the things that we care about
00:17:42
are how positively someone is responding
00:17:44
to a product or um a firm or a brand
00:17:48
would be uh represented by activity in
00:17:50
this
00:17:52
region the more Brands know about the
00:17:54
way our brains work the more they can
00:17:56
influence our purchases fast fashion
00:17:59
must satisfy the reward circuit the
00:18:02
first way to achieve this cheap
00:18:04
[Music]
00:18:21
prices if the price is particularly low
00:18:24
specifically if if it's low compared to
00:18:26
what you're used to seeing or
00:18:27
Alternatives in the marketplace it can
00:18:29
actually be seen as a positive aspect or
00:18:32
part of the appeal of a product you see
00:18:34
it less as having to sacrifice that
00:18:36
amount of money but more that you are
00:18:38
getting something and able to save much
00:18:41
more than you would have had to pay
00:18:54
otherwise low prices limited collections
00:18:58
constant s Uli and above all social
00:19:00
networking fast fashion is moving away
00:19:03
from the traditional advertising which
00:19:05
is too expensive and not targeted
00:19:07
enough instead brands are calling on
00:19:10
influences like noita and are
00:19:13
implementing a much more subtle
00:19:14
marketing scheme
00:19:17
[Music]
00:19:44
now you go from a company telling you
00:19:46
why you should be interested in a
00:19:47
product to an individual that you aspire
00:19:50
to be or you really like it seems like
00:19:52
these people are talking directly to you
00:19:54
and recommending these
00:19:56
products all of these social media
00:19:58
platforms to find a way to tap into an
00:20:00
interpersonal connection that in a way
00:20:03
excludes the more impersonal appearance
00:20:06
of the firm or the company itself they
00:20:08
come across as being much more genuine
00:20:12
influencers are the stars of this new
00:20:15
form of advertising every fan is a
00:20:17
potential
00:20:20
Target the more known and influencer is
00:20:23
the more money they
00:20:26
earn for a simple video noita can earn
00:20:29
up to
00:20:54
5,000 we spend on average between 2 and
00:20:56
three hours a day in front of our phone
00:20:59
one out of every two users has a
00:21:01
shopping
00:21:06
application the internet is the new mall
00:21:09
when you're looking at a young
00:21:10
generation where it shops constantly
00:21:14
constantly shops you're constantly
00:21:16
online and you're constantly clicking
00:21:18
and your credit card is memorized by
00:21:20
your smart device and you click on
00:21:22
something and you click and it comes to
00:21:24
your house
00:21:29
for the former leaders of fast fashion
00:21:31
there is an urgent need to re-evaluate
00:21:33
their model the companies that have
00:21:35
taken the risk to sell exclusively
00:21:37
online are gaining traction even more
00:21:41
reactive and even cheaper they are
00:21:43
inventing Ultra fast
00:21:45
[Music]
00:21:53
fashion the brand boohoo is little known
00:21:55
to the general public yet it is the
00:21:57
world's number one online fast fashion
00:22:00
company in
00:22:02
2019 the turnover of this English brand
00:22:05
approached 1 billion e the boohoo group
00:22:08
has its own line and also other brands
00:22:11
including pretty little
00:22:17
[Music]
00:22:26
thing on its site boohoo sells this
00:22:29
dress for
00:22:30
€9 at this price you would think that it
00:22:32
comes from an Asian Workshop however
00:22:35
this garment was made in Europe in the
00:22:37
United
00:22:38
[Music]
00:22:48
Kingdom
00:22:50
leester a workingclass city of 300,000
00:22:53
inhabitants in the center of the country
00:23:01
until the 1970s leester was the capital
00:23:04
of English pany hose and exported its
00:23:07
textile products all over the
00:23:11
world large factories employed thousands
00:23:14
of
00:23:15
[Music]
00:23:21
workers the textile industry has since
00:23:24
returned to
00:23:26
Leicester however with working
00:23:28
conditions are like those of the third
00:23:38
world workshops are a hidden world where
00:23:41
cameras are not
00:23:57
welcome once people people see with
00:23:59
camera there will be 100 phone calls in
00:24:01
leester in within 15 minutes
00:24:05
now the man who has allowed us to film
00:24:07
is called SED kji originally from
00:24:10
Pakistan he is one of the city's most
00:24:13
successful
00:24:18
entrepreneurs this is the factory where
00:24:20
we are making garments how many people
00:24:22
are working we have 92 people 92 people
00:24:25
working and this is one of the biggest
00:24:27
Factory in leester
00:24:31
all fast fashion coming from Lester and
00:24:34
Lester has
00:24:35
great manufacturing capacity that nobody
00:24:38
has in UK not even in UK nobody has in
00:24:42
whole Europe Lester can deliver any
00:24:45
garments within unbelievable delivery
00:24:48
time leester is master of fashion
00:24:51
garments
00:24:58
manufacturers return to Leicester for
00:25:00
its location in central England
00:25:03
convenient to save
00:25:07
time time is very much on S KJ's mind he
00:25:12
develops his own label while supplying
00:25:14
English fast fashion
00:25:22
brands if you want business in UK you
00:25:25
need to be very quick in delivery we
00:25:28
will see this finished garment in one
00:25:31
hour time they send us a picture that
00:25:33
this is something is very nice can you
00:25:35
develop something quickly similar we are
00:25:37
very close to customer once the Garment
00:25:39
is
00:25:40
ready we deliver same day so we are
00:25:44
quickest say for example this
00:25:46
development they want to make it in
00:25:47
China if they send pictures to Chinese
00:25:50
supplier even if they make garments same
00:25:52
day they need to post it the post will
00:25:54
take for four to five days then they
00:25:57
will receive the okay they will response
00:25:59
next day if there are any changes to be
00:26:03
made then they have to resubmit the
00:26:05
government that will take another 10
00:26:07
days so they already lost 2 weeks just
00:26:10
for
00:26:11
[Music]
00:26:16
sampling I will write B production
00:26:19
sample this is ready to
00:26:22
[Music]
00:26:25
go I've just posted your sample and send
00:26:28
receipt so once you receive Monday
00:26:30
morning please approve before
00:26:32
12:00 process is sample is gone now we
00:26:36
will get approval they will receive
00:26:37
sample ID this special delivery so once
00:26:39
it's approved we will go for
00:26:44
production so the whole process from
00:26:46
order to delivery it's uh 12 days this
00:26:51
is the unique point of Lester of our
00:26:53
industry here that we can do quick fast
00:26:56
service quick delivery the fabric is
00:26:59
available here all the time so if the
00:27:02
customer need it very urgently we can
00:27:04
provide them within 2 weeks times you
00:27:06
cannot lose one day we cannot lose one
00:27:08
hour forget one day the this is hour we
00:27:12
are calculating hours and minutes here
00:27:15
not
00:27:16
days clothing designed produced and
00:27:19
delivered in 2 weeks twice as fast as
00:27:22
Zara at unbeatable prices
00:27:35
but this efficiency comes at a high
00:27:37
price the workshop district has become a
00:27:40
lawless Zone in the heart of England a
00:27:42
shady system of
00:27:55
subcontracting we have few number of
00:27:58
very powerful brands or retailers buyers
00:28:02
at the top that place orders to have
00:28:05
very large number of smaller
00:28:07
manufacturers that chase smaller orders
00:28:11
every day obviously engenders
00:28:13
competition and pushes prices
00:28:16
down for manufacturers It's always
00:28:19
important to take any order they can get
00:28:22
even if they don't have the capacity to
00:28:25
fulfill the order and that is part of
00:28:28
the problem they have to subcontract it
00:28:31
and often they subcontract it to second
00:28:34
or third tier
00:28:35
factories where working conditions are
00:28:39
of a much lower standard than they might
00:28:42
be in the first tier uh
00:28:46
manufacturer there is no shortage of job
00:28:49
offers in these sweat shops embroiderer
00:28:52
cutter or dress maker
00:29:05
Tanya is a journalist equipped with a
00:29:07
hidden camera she will go undercover
00:29:09
into the workshops of
00:29:16
[Music]
00:29:21
Lester I'm looking for a job do know if
00:29:24
somebody here is looking for somebody I
00:29:26
learn very quickly so my looking for a
00:29:28
little job I don't know packaging sh uh
00:29:31
how many done here in Great Britain yeah
00:29:34
only for some weeks so do you know
00:29:36
somebody who is looking for some Walkers
00:29:39
you know it's time one we here is good
00:29:43
work no problem okay okay but this one
00:29:46
is Cash not R money any problem any no
00:29:51
problem no
00:30:01
okay the windows are covered up it's the
00:30:04
middle of winter and there's no
00:30:07
[Music]
00:30:12
heating the boss offers a trial period
00:30:17
unpaid you can just one two week timear
00:30:21
ladies after 2 weeks 3 3 per hour yeah
00:30:27
three £ per hour this is illegal in the
00:30:31
UK it's not even half the minimum
00:30:33
[Music]
00:30:34
[Applause]
00:30:35
[Music]
00:30:36
wage how much hours should like no
00:30:40
problem 10 12 or 14 even 14 yeah no
00:30:45
problem he's so I cany no problem at
00:30:49
what time should I come here every
00:30:51
morning okay 6:00 8:00 till 6:00 okay I
00:30:57
will
00:30:58
this one it's not an easy one you have
00:31:01
only step by step no no no step but I
00:31:05
have two week for any job post a brief
00:31:08
demonstration of the sewing machine and
00:31:11
what is
00:31:12
this skirt skirt okay only having
00:31:17
arrived a few hours ago Tanya a novice
00:31:20
seamstress is making skirts free of
00:31:23
charge
00:31:25
[Music]
00:31:31
these skirts will be sold online by one
00:31:33
of the biggest fast fashioned
00:31:37
Brands pretty little
00:31:39
things pretty little
00:31:46
things pretty little thing is one of the
00:31:48
brands of the boohoo group The skirts
00:31:51
that tan manufactures are sold for €1 15
00:31:56
[Music]
00:32:01
it's barely 1: p.m. when suddenly work
00:32:10
stops
00:32:12
sorry today for all the day yes
00:32:15
[Music]
00:32:18
why ah so it's finished today
00:32:22
everybody workers paid by the hour are
00:32:25
sent home without compensation
00:32:35
fast fashion has engendered a rise in
00:32:38
informality a rise in precarity workers
00:32:42
essentially work on a system of informal
00:32:45
Zero Hour contracts so they never have a
00:32:48
contract so see you tomorrow yeah see
00:32:51
you tomorrow bye bye the Leicester
00:32:55
workshops have a bad reputation
00:32:58
many brands are now refusing to do
00:33:00
production there but not the boohoo
00:33:02
group and its brand pretty little
00:33:11
thing a brand on the rise in 2019 its
00:33:15
sales doubled with a revenue of nearly
00:33:18
400 million
00:33:20
[Music]
00:33:27
[Music]
00:33:33
pretty little thing did not wish to be
00:33:37
[Music]
00:33:43
interviewed but we managed to get access
00:33:46
to the opening of the Parisian showroom
00:33:48
of the brand to meet its CEO Umar kamani
00:33:52
32 years old is the son of the founder
00:33:55
of buho Mahmud kamman thanks to boohoo
00:33:59
the father became a billionaire
00:34:01
surrounded by his bodyguards his son
00:34:03
enjoys the
00:34:08
attention we're pretty little thing we
00:34:10
want to be more than a fashion website
00:34:12
we want to be a Lifestyle brand we want
00:34:14
to give good um meaning to the customer
00:34:17
you know good values if you have a
00:34:19
daughter uh we think pretty little
00:34:21
things should Inspire girls in the right
00:34:25
way I've got the dress here it's address
00:34:28
it's
00:34:29
15 how are you able to do address 15 in
00:34:33
It's Made in the UK how do you do this
00:34:36
yeah we I'm not answering this question
00:34:38
why I don't want to why it's your dress
00:34:42
it's PLT how do you do this I don't
00:34:44
answer the question why why I don't have
00:34:47
to answer a question do I no I'm just
00:34:50
asking a simple question how is it ask
00:34:52
somebody else your The Bu no ask
00:34:55
somebody else
00:34:58
we we know this dress is made by uh
00:35:02
workers that are paid half half the
00:35:04
minimum
00:35:05
wage we know
00:35:07
that how how do you address
00:35:10
[Music]
00:35:11
this that's
00:35:20
over move stoping keeping don't touch
00:35:24
turn your [ __ ] camera off keep
00:35:26
walking keep walking
00:35:32
keep after this eventful first meeting
00:35:35
pretty DF wrote to us the brand stated
00:35:38
that all textile workers working for
00:35:40
pretty little thinging are treated
00:35:42
fairly and they receive at least the
00:35:44
minimum wage
00:35:47
[Music]
00:36:01
producing clothes at such a low price
00:36:04
has a very high environmental cost
00:36:06
textiles are the second most polluting
00:36:08
industry in the world after
00:36:13
[Music]
00:36:17
oil per one part one ton of fabric as we
00:36:22
call it 200 tons of water polluted so 1
00:36:26
to 200 is the ratio the more Commerce
00:36:30
there is the more pollution there's
00:36:32
going to be without efficient filtration
00:36:35
and cleanup technology if the fashion
00:36:37
industry is going to expand by an
00:36:39
additional 60% in the next 10 years then
00:36:44
we're going to get 60% more
00:36:47
pollution under the pressure of public
00:36:50
opinion the textile industry is trying
00:36:52
to Rebrand in trade shows the color of
00:36:55
choice for marketing is green
00:36:58
organic responsible recyclable the guise
00:37:01
of green
00:37:14
fashion a certain fabric encapsulates
00:37:17
this shift Visos many fast fashioned
00:37:20
brands are using this cheap artificial
00:37:25
silk this red dress dress from Asos and
00:37:29
the snake pattern Sheath dress from
00:37:31
boohoo are made of 95%
00:37:36
Visos so this is the
00:37:41
wood from here you make the
00:37:44
pulp and from there you make
00:37:49
fiber so that's V Coast the sosic fiber
00:37:54
and from here it became yarn from yarn
00:37:56
to fabric the process it takes from
00:37:59
where you Source the wood the kind of
00:38:03
certifications you fall into all that
00:38:06
put together helps you a nature-based
00:38:09
product yeah Visos is more
00:38:16
eco-friendly Visos is manufactured by a
00:38:18
handful of companies around the world
00:38:21
among them is the berer group a $40
00:38:24
billion Indian conglomerate IND detect
00:38:27
H&M Asos the biggest names in Visos are
00:38:31
buying from
00:38:34
Bera we believe that the planet comes
00:38:37
first our philosophy of forest of
00:38:40
fashion Visos according to berer is a
00:38:43
blessing because we believe that what's
00:38:46
good for the planet is what's good for
00:38:51
us however in order to transform wood
00:38:55
into fabric many chemicals are needed
00:38:58
one of the most dangerous is a highly
00:39:00
toxic
00:39:01
solvent carbon disulfide
00:39:08
CS2 then the addition of a liquid called
00:39:11
carbon bisulfide causes another chemical
00:39:16
change well it's marketed as a green
00:39:20
product is it basically a
00:39:23
lie yes it's an extremely interesting
00:39:27
poison
00:39:29
the danger comes from the fumes of
00:39:32
CS2 to make the cellulose which will
00:39:34
give the Visos its threadlike texture
00:39:37
the wood pulp is immersed in a bath of
00:39:39
sulfuric acid then CS2 is
00:39:45
added the minute it hits sulfuric acid
00:39:49
the carbon disulfide leaves the
00:39:53
cellulose unfortunately where it leaves
00:39:55
the cellulose too is is the workroom
00:39:58
where the workers are working it just
00:39:59
goes up into the
00:40:04
air in India in the state of Madia
00:40:06
Pradesh the city of nagda is home to the
00:40:09
Bera group's
00:40:11
plant founded in 1956 it is a town
00:40:15
within a town 5,000 workers work there
00:40:18
day and night and journalists are not
00:40:21
welcome
00:40:24
[Music]
00:40:32
f
00:41:06
Dr Paul Blanc has listed the problems
00:41:09
associated with CS2 eye disease loss of
00:41:12
fertility and vascular
00:41:16
problems when I did my work on this book
00:41:19
I visited the areas in Wales where these
00:41:22
large factories had been I started to
00:41:25
get emails from people
00:41:28
and they would say you
00:41:30
know my father died at the age of 42
00:41:34
from a heart attack he worked in the
00:41:35
factory and doing that we never got a
00:41:37
penny
00:41:48
in Ashok poal began working at berer in
00:41:52
1981 in June 2019 he suffered a heart
00:41:55
attack which he said was job
00:41:58
related yes
00:42:40
at the age of 58 he is on unpaid sick
00:42:42
leave
00:42:43
indefinitely are there any occupational
00:42:46
illnesses related to bera's
00:42:50
activities Bera tells us that their
00:42:53
activities have no impact on the health
00:42:55
of the workers or residents on the nagta
00:43:01
site it is difficult to verify this as
00:43:04
Bera treats their employees in their own
00:43:06
Hospital milder cases are referred to
00:43:08
the city's public
00:43:19
Hospital Dr cha work in this
00:43:23
hospital for 40 years this surgeon has
00:43:26
been its medical
00:43:28
officer a privileged witness of the
00:43:30
amerta that protects beer big they used
00:43:34
to attend their own hospital because
00:43:37
management don't want they should come
00:43:40
to in Civil Hospital because it will be
00:43:43
exposed it will be
00:43:53
open until his departure in 2004 Dr Cher
00:43:57
was the medical Authority who could have
00:43:59
initiated studies on the health of the
00:44:01
berer workers but he was not even aware
00:44:04
of the existence of the
00:44:06
CS2 was there ever in nagda large scale
00:44:11
medical study of the workers population
00:44:15
no no no I have not given any such work
00:44:19
to do something they don't permit their
00:44:22
workers to give any statement which goes
00:44:26
against to the factory if they came to
00:44:29
know something is going on in the Civil
00:44:31
Hospital they put a check on the worker
00:44:34
no don't go there we will treat you in
00:44:37
the our
00:44:55
Hospital abishek ch rasia is one of the
00:44:58
rare citizens of nagda to denounce the
00:45:00
pollution linked to the factory a law
00:45:03
student he filed a complaint against the
00:45:05
Visos
00:45:07
producer actually they are not allowing
00:45:10
the people to come inside the company
00:45:12
they are just always hide the all thing
00:45:15
in front of the all people nobody can
00:45:17
take action against them because they
00:45:20
have too much long
00:45:22
hand the students complaint alerts the
00:45:25
Madia Pradesh State Authority
00:45:30
ities in January 2020 the pollution
00:45:34
control agency inspected the Bera
00:45:38
Factory the authorities ordered the
00:45:40
factory to take
00:45:44
action but above all for the first time
00:45:47
they demanded a study of the effects of
00:45:49
pollution on the health of workers
00:45:52
looking particularly at CS2
00:45:58
[Music]
00:46:06
Downstream from the plant along the
00:46:08
chambal river 20,000 people live in
00:46:11
around 20
00:46:13
[Music]
00:46:18
Villages [ __ ] is one of these
00:46:21
Villages located 4 km from the plant for
00:46:25
years the villagers have been claiming
00:46:27
more and more health
00:46:29
[Music]
00:46:35
problems the resident complaints were
00:46:37
finally heard by the
00:46:43
authorities for the first time doctors
00:46:46
were sent to check up on the
00:46:52
residents among the Restless patients
00:46:55
was this father who came with his two
00:46:57
disabled Sons
00:47:00
[Music]
00:47:26
[Music]
00:47:36
there are no official statistics however
00:47:40
many inhabitants show similar symptoms
00:47:42
paralysis joint problems even loss of
00:47:51
speech in this single family there are
00:47:53
three people are suffering from physical
00:47:55
disability
00:47:57
this girl has been uh 26 year old and
00:48:00
they both brothers are 23 or 24 years
00:48:04
actually they are just physical disabled
00:48:06
and the growth of the body is
00:48:09
stop and you just see the hair of that
00:48:12
girl she is only 26 year
00:48:18
[Music]
00:48:23
old at the time of their visit
00:48:26
government doctors counted 209 people
00:48:29
with health problems potentially linked
00:48:31
to pollution for the inhabitants the
00:48:34
number one suspect is Bera they accuse
00:48:37
the plant of having dumped its waste
00:48:39
into the river for
00:48:47
decades the village of palaki has no
00:48:50
running water the inhabitants drink
00:48:52
water from Wells fed by the chambal
00:48:54
river in 200 18 berer committed to
00:48:58
distribute drinking water the company
00:49:01
finances six daily deliveries providing
00:49:04
90 lers to each
00:49:20
family the companies are ailing the
00:49:22
drinking water why would the company
00:49:25
give free water to the inab
00:49:27
because they know that they are
00:49:28
responsible for the pollution otherwise
00:49:31
why they are just providing the water to
00:49:32
the uh not this Village they provided 22
00:49:36
Village and they know that they are
00:49:38
responsible for the pollution and they
00:49:39
only provide the water for drinking
00:49:41
purpose not other
00:49:43
uses to water their crops the farmers of
00:49:46
paketti still use polluted water from
00:49:49
the chambal river in January 2020 the
00:49:52
authorities ordered berer to improve
00:49:54
water quality Downstream from the plant
00:49:58
[Music]
00:50:03
[Applause]
00:50:05
[Music]
00:50:08
the burler group refutes all
00:50:10
responsibility asserting that water
00:50:12
pollution is not related to visco's
00:50:15
production and refers to the presence of
00:50:17
other
00:50:20
Industries meanwhile the global demand
00:50:22
for Visos is rising in nagda the factory
00:50:26
will increase increase its production
00:50:27
and will soon be
00:50:30
[Music]
00:50:45
[Music]
00:50:47
expanded the fashion industry wants us
00:50:49
to believe that it will become
00:50:51
sustainable but in reality the opposite
00:50:54
is happening
00:50:57
the lifespan of a fast fashioned garment
00:50:59
is short and not only because we're
00:51:02
getting tired of them and throwing them
00:51:03
away
00:51:16
[Music]
00:51:36
barely 1% of clothing can be
00:51:39
resold every year in Europe 4 million
00:51:42
tons of textiles end up in the
00:51:49
trash can we stop this fast fashion
00:51:55
machine small brands are pleading for a
00:51:57
return to slow
00:51:59
fashion clothes of higher quality which
00:52:02
can be reused and
00:52:05
resold commendable efforts but simply
00:52:08
not
00:52:09
enough can slow fashion satisfy people
00:52:12
the
00:52:13
[Music]
00:52:17
same Studies by the French fashion
00:52:20
institute show that less novelty in
00:52:22
stores means less shopping it's as
00:52:25
simple as that
00:52:28
if I had a dollar for every time
00:52:29
somebody asked me tell me what I should
00:52:32
buy I say nothing
00:52:36
nothing you have way too much stuff
00:52:39
already but now what do we do what do we
00:52:42
say stop spending money this is not a
00:52:45
viable economic solution not shopping is
00:52:48
not a solution to the industry so fast
00:52:51
fashion will continue to be popular and
00:52:54
it will continue to show strides towards
00:52:57
improving towards circularity so we
00:53:00
might see minor improvements in product
00:53:03
development but we will not see the end
00:53:05
of fast fashion
00:53:10
[Music]
00:53:17
[Music]
00:53:32
[Music]
