00:00:00
you buy all the products you put them on
your face and then your skin gets worse rude
00:00:04
today we're busting five skincare
myths that are ruining your skin
00:00:07
and i swear we are not just going to
talk about wearing sunscreen every day
00:00:10
myth number one high concentrations are
better it makes sense that we feel this
00:00:14
way if five percent of something is good
then ten percent must be twice as good
00:00:18
but there's diminishing returns when it comes to
skin care it's like eating burgers one burger is
00:00:23
good two burgers is maybe better but then
ten burgers oh you start to feel like trash
00:00:28
or cake ingredients one teaspoon of vanilla
extract is nice two is better the whole bottle
00:00:33
maybe a bit much and if the whole cake
is made of vanilla extract it's trash
00:00:37
same with actives it's about hitting that sweet
spot if you don't have enough of something it
00:00:42
has no effect if you have too much of something
then it's too much you're in side effect territory
00:00:48
for skincare this is usually irritation or
stripping your skin barrier you know you've
00:00:52
done this if your normal products or maybe even
water start to sting when they get on your face
00:00:57
your skin might go red and feel
tight it might be weirdly shiny
00:01:00
you might also get bumpy which is sort
of the opposite of what you are going for
00:01:04
irritating your skin also leads to
inflammation and inflammation is
00:01:08
also not good there's this term
inflammaging that some brands
00:01:11
have been trying to make catch on for a
while now it hasn't really but the gist is
00:01:16
inflammation can speed up some of those changes
that happen in your skin over time not good
00:01:21
inflammation is also one of the four factors that
contributes to acne so stick with a concentration
00:01:27
that makes your skin happy don't try to go
higher just for the sake of going higher
00:01:30
and if it says to start on a low percentage start
at a low percentage don't try to cut corners
00:01:36
myth number two you should exfoliate flaky
skin this also seems like it should make
00:01:40
sense your skin wants to come off
so you help it off with exfoliants
00:01:44
but sometimes the reason skin is flaking off is
because your skin's natural shedding processes are
00:01:49
messed up and adding exfoliants will probably
mess it up more if your flaky skin is red
00:01:55
or irritated then adding an irritating
exfoliant into the mix is not going to help
00:02:01
so if that's your situation leave it
alone let it chill maybe slather on a
00:02:05
nice soothing cream like la roche-posay's
cicaplast baume or even just vaseline
00:02:10
lack of hydration can also sometimes mess up
your skin's desquamation desquamation is the
00:02:14
fancy name for your skin's natural exfoliation
process okay sometimes you do need to get rid
00:02:19
of dead skin flakes really quickly like if
you're about to put on foundation in that
00:02:23
case you can exfoliate it off super gently
with a damp towel or a gentle peeling gel
00:02:28
just to break off the dead skin at the
surface but apart from that leave it alone
00:02:33
myth number three using every
active ingredient every day
00:02:36
this happens a lot you have a day routine and a
night routine but you want to use 10 products so
00:02:41
you use 3 in the morning 7 at night now some
people enjoy having a nice long routine but
00:02:46
you probably don't need one
and sometimes it is too much
00:02:50
quite a lot of actives are fine being used
less regularly than once a day you can use
00:02:54
them once or twice a week for example there
are studies on tretinoin which is a vitamin
00:02:59
a product where they're used once every
three days vitamin c is believed to have
00:03:03
a depot effect in other words it stays in your
skin and stays working for more than 24 hours
00:03:08
there's also exfoliation it's usually recommended
that you only exfoliate once maybe twice a week
00:03:13
so you don't need to use every product every day
the best approach is to learn to listen to your
00:03:19
skin and give it the products it needs and not
mess it up more when it's already a bit messed up
00:03:23
i talk more about getting to know your skin in my
ebook the lab muffin guide to basic skincare but
00:03:28
basically you want to keep track of what you're
putting on your skin and how your skin responds
00:03:33
keeping a skincare diary is a good way taking
photos is also good you should also change one
00:03:38
thing at a time so you can see how your skin
actually responds and remember if you use too
00:03:43
much you can get irritation you can mess up your
skin barrier and get that textured uncomfortable
00:03:48
type feeling and that stinging that inflammation
can also lead to accelerated aging and acne
00:03:53
i personally use a three night cycle on night
one i'll use a retinoid on night two i'll use
00:03:58
a chemical exfoliant and then on night 3 it's
the rest night where i use gentler things like
00:04:02
niacinamide and vitamin c for me vitamin c
is quite gentle but for some people it's not
00:04:07
so again listening to your skin is super important
00:04:10
myth number four cleanser doesn't matter
because you're washing it off your skin
00:04:13
sorting out my cleanser and my cleansing routine
was one of the things that made the biggest
00:04:17
changes to my skin there's actually quite a
lot of scientific research on cleansers like
00:04:21
how to make them more gentle how to make
sure they're not contributing to acne
00:04:24
but there's still a lot of cleansers on
the market that don't follow the rules
00:04:28
for example cleansers should have a low ph
and contain some hydrating ingredients to stop
00:04:32
from stripping your skin make sure you look
up reviews from people with similar skin to
00:04:37
you before you buy a cleanser i actually
did a couple of videos on cleansing myths
00:04:40
a while ago and i think i forgot this myth i
have oily skin so when i was younger i used
00:04:45
a pretty harsh cleanser i used it twice a day
and it dried out my skin but then what happened
00:04:49
was it felt like my skin was really tight and hard
and the oil just sat on top and after i cleansed
00:04:55
in the morning and then put on makeup the oil
came back really fast and messed up my makeup
00:04:59
once i got better at skin care i switched to
a gentle cleanser once a day and my skin has
00:05:03
been so much happier makeup lasts for much
longer it doesn't sort of flood back with
00:05:08
oil as quickly also if you're wearing a mask a
lot you might end up with skin issues from that
00:05:13
wearing a mask means you're trapping moisture
against your skin and that extra moisture changes
00:05:18
the microbes on your skin and also makes
your barrier a bit more permeable there's
00:05:22
also that extra friction and there's just a lot
of irritation and inflammation going on there
00:05:26
taking off your mask when it's safe and
cleansing underneath is a really good idea
00:05:31
if you're out you can use wipes or micellar
water also check for how you're cleansing as well
00:05:36
so check your water temperature and
also what cleansing tools you're using
00:05:40
myth 5 sunscreens are all awful i kind of
lied but i see a lot of people trying to
00:05:45
make the wrong sunscreen work i don't mean
in terms of chemical sunscreen or physical
00:05:49
sunscreen or what spf but just what works
for you and so many sunscreens are just
00:05:54
annoying they might roll off your skin they might
break you out they might just feel really terrible
00:05:59
i blame men there are a lot of white
dudes in the skincare industry who
00:06:02
don't use skincare they use shampoo on their
face and they're making decisions about what
00:06:06
products we get and so this crappy
sunscreen situation means a lot of us
00:06:10
aren't using enough sunscreen or we
might just skip sunscreen altogether
00:06:13
but there are more women and men
who use skincare or they're just
00:06:17
good at listening to what their customers
actually want they're more considerate
00:06:21
are getting into decision making roles and
so there are a lot of better sunscreens
00:06:24
hitting the market so don't feel like you
just have to put up with bad sunscreens
00:06:28
not all sunscreens are awful a lot of them
feel really nice on your skin and a lot of
00:06:33
fear-mongering about sunscreen ingredients and
rules for what sunscreen you're meant to use
00:06:38
aren't really legitimate anyway
00:06:40
it's more about finding a sunscreen that
you enjoy so you're happy to wear it every
00:06:43
day and you can apply a decent amount so
about a quarter teaspoon for your face
00:06:47
like and subscribe to promise to
yourself that you'll do better
00:06:50
and let me know the worst myth
you believed in the comments
