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hi beautiful i know a lot of us out here
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are well at our breaking points which
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means a lot of at-home haircuts at home
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hair color a lot of hair disasters
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everybody wants to do something drastic
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to their hair right now in order to just
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feel something and i get it over the
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years i've watched so many hair color
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bleach fail videos i've learned a lot
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actually on what people are doing at
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home that is making their hair look so
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bad so that knowledge is gonna help me
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today bring you guys the basic knowledge
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of how to properly color your hair
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yourself at home i'm gonna debunk all
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this sort of myths i'm gonna tell you
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what things people are doing right what
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things people are doing wrong and make
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sure it doesn't fall off we'll go over
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everything from bleaching toning to
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aftercare and so much more however i
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will be going over the basics if i have
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hairdressers watching if i have anybody
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who's sort of advanced in the world of
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hair color this may be a bit too basic
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for you but for the average person
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you've come to the right place and just
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as a little reminder this does not
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replace a professional hairdresser
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somebody who has studied color theory
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for years is gonna know a lot more than
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this but it is a guide during these
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tough times on how you can color your
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hair yourself and do it well maybe not
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amazing but well i hope and with that
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all said you guys let's
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learn some color theory
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let's do it
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[Music]
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are you ready get out your notepad or
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your phone and a pen or your finger and
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start taking notes all right because
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we're gonna go over a lot here and it is
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important that you listen listen to me
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this will be like a fun class i'm like a
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cool teacher you know i'm like not like
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the rest of them first we're gonna go
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over how to prepare your hair for hair
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coloring otherwise known as the category
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prepare don't wash your hair before
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coloring it what you do when you wash
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your hair is you make tiny little
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abrasions on your scalp this is going to
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make coloring your hair very painful if
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you're using bleach that bleach is going
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to seep into those little tiny cracks in
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your scalp and it is going to sizzle and
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burn so please don't wash your hair
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before coloring it is okay if there's
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product in your hair it's honestly fine
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it's really not a big deal the bleach
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will seep through everything okay bleach
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is super super heavy duty and it'll go
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through a little bit of you know
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hairspray and it'll get to the cortex of
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your hair it's not a big deal please
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don't wash your hair and also maybe if
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you're going to bleach it don't wash it
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for several days that way you have a
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good amount of oil secretion on your
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scalp to protect your scalp don't wash
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damn hair this is pretty basic but make
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sure you cover your space cover your
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floor cover your counters cover yourself
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wear some old clothes brush out your
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hair please don't try and color your
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hair with a bunch of tangles in it get
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all those tangles out before going in
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with that color or else you're gonna
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have weird spotting from the tangles um
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if your hair is like matted or anything
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in the back you're going to end up
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coloring those matted pieces and then
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you're going to get all spotting
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everywhere it's not good brush your damn
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heads you're going to also want to
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separate your hair into four sections
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here i'll show you on miss mannycoin
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just how you do that this is a super
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basic sectioning method that every
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hairstylist uses on the daily super easy
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part your hair in the middle all the way
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back down to the nape of your neck
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that's your first section those are your
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two and then go to the apex you can find
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the apex by laying the comb on your head
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and finding the highest point of your
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head that is what you call the apex then
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make a section from the apex to behind
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the ears and those are your four
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sections there it is voila you're gonna
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want to make sure your hair is dry don't
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apply color on wet hair unless you're
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trying to do like a bleach bath but
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that's another advanced thing okay we
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don't need to know about that today
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apply color to dry hair please don't put
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bleach on wet hair it doesn't really
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make any sense it's just going to dilute
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your formula there's really no point all
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right make sure your hair is dry i also
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see a lot of people soaking their hair
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in excessive amounts of say coconut oil
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there's really no point of soaking your
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hair in coconut oil the bleach is just
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gonna eat through it all and it's not
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gonna matter that you have that oil on
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your hair strands it's not get rid of
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the oil it's not necessary it just makes
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a mess and your hair just feels nasty
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and like really gross and greasy after
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you're welcome all right let's move on
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to category two how to mix mixing your
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bleach or your color you gotta do that
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properly all right this is a big big
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factor guess what you guys different
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developers actually do different things
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it's not a one-size-fits-all i know a
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lot of people think that there's 10 20
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30 and 40 volume for literally no reason
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and they just kind of take their guess
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on what they should use but actually
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there is a method to the madness i
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promise so let me just go over the very
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very basics of what each different
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developer does differently so we're
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going to talk mostly today about two
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different categories you can either be
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doing a permanent color which is not
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bleach and bleach is bleach right so
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anything that doesn't have that white
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powder involved that's just color that's
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permanent color with the white powder
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that's bleach and then we'll also talk
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about toners later but just for now just
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know the differences between color and
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bleach let's go over color first so if
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you're coloring your hair that means
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you're not using any of that white
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powder stuff you have an option to use
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10 20 30 or 40 volume if you're using 10
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volume you're probably somebody who has
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any hair color and they're trying to go
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darker because when you're using 10
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volume you're not going to get any
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lightning effects so it's just going to
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deposit tone onto your hair permanently
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but it's not going to cover any grays
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now if you have grays and you have any
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hair color and you're trying to go
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darker and you're trying to also cover
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your grays you're going to use 20 volume
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it lifts it gets into the cortex of
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those grays and actually changes the
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color of your gray hair and all of your
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hair on your head and it lays there
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permanently so 20 volume is great for
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you now 30 and 40 volume with permanent
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color not bleach is typically used for
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high lift color which means maybe you
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are a natural this is important if you
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have color on your hair you cannot lift
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your hair color with more color so that
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means if you have a dark brown hair and
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it's box side like that you can't then
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use a blonde box dye to lighten your
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hair you must use bleach just want to
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get that very clear you must use bleach
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to get your hair lighter if it's already
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colored but if your hair is natural if
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it is naturally brown and you've never
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colored it you can use a blonde dye to
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make your hair blonde now it might come
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out a little bit orange you can also use
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bleach but you can also use a high lift
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color which is a color that lifts many
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levels so you're going to want to use a
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30 or 40 volume with that in order to
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get maximum lift with your blonde color
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another thing that i would use 30 or 40
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volume for is reds you can use 30 volume
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if you're trying to get that very maxed
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out like bright bright red or 40 volume
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if you really want to push it to the max
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max max and get like fuchsia going on in
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your head you can do that with permanent
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color without bleach if your hair has
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never been colored before now for those
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of you who are going to use bleach so
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people who have already colored hair
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want to go lighter or people who have
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never colored their hair before and want
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to get that max max right platinum
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blonde you're gonna want to use lightner
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aka bleach that powder white stuff that
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you mix with developer okay now we don't
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use 10 volume with bleach because it has
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no lifting capabilities again 10 volume
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just deposits and doesn't lift when i
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say lift i mean like the hair cuticle
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doesn't actually open that's what's
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lifting and then the color molecules
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actually go inside pen volume it doesn't
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do that it lays pretty much on top
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slightly inside now 20 volume is for
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those of you looking for about one to
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two levels of lift if you're
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highlighting your hair this is often a
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great developer to use for highlights
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otherwise 30 volume is pretty much my
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standard i pretty much use 30 volume on
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everybody and any lightning scenario
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it's pretty much my go-to and i highly
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recommend if you're going to lighten
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your hair at any capacity use a 30
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volume unless your hair is already like
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pretty light and you're only trying to
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go a little bit lighter 20 volume will
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work just fine now 40 volume i just say
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don't i don't i don't feel like it does
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that much more than 30 volume to be
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honest with you i feel like it lightens
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very fast and then dies out very fast so
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i don't really recommend it to anybody i
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don't ever use it for pretty much
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anything i'm not a huge fan of 40 volume
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and if you're using 40 volume on your
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scalp it's probably gonna burn a lot and
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i would not recommend it you actually
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shouldn't really be using 30 volume on
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your scalp either but i never really
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found any problem with it and it's
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always been fine so 30 volume is pretty
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much the standard i highly recommend
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that with lightner if you're trying to
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lighten your hair especially those of
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you with virgin hair who are trying to
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lighten your hair for the first time 30
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volume will work great and if you're
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asking well brad what kind of bleach
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should i be using i mean it's all quite
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similar look for a nice one wherever
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you're shopping or online i don't know
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wherever you can get lightner at this
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point i'm sure it'll be fine i haven't
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found a gigantic difference between the
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different lighteners i've used over the
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past if you have the right technique you
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can use any kind of lightener and you'll
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get a great result and also one last
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thing please read the directions every
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lightener has a different mixing ratio
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they're very similar across the board
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but please mix your lightener correctly
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to what the directions say it is
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important to mix correctly that way you
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get the maximum results from the
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lightener you're using let's go over our
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next category which is where to start
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with mixer color we prepared our at-home
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salon and our hair and now we're ready
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to actually apply the color so let's go
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over a permanent color first this is the
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stuff that's not bleached if you have
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virgin hair and you're trying to do an
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all-over color please start at the mid
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sections and ends and then later after
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you're done with that apply the root
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color because you have heat from your
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scalp i see this all the time you will
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get what's called hot roots which is
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when your root area develops more than
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your mids and ends and you end up with a
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sort of orangey warm color up there
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because of the heat from your scalp so
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please if you don't want orange roots
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don't start with your roots so it's very
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similar with lightener don't start your
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roots if you have virgin hair please
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don't or else your roots will end up
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white and your ends will end up like a
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yellow orange i would recommend probably
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just doing the mid lengths and ends
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first and then wait about 10 to 15
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minutes until your hair has started to
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develop and your hair has started to
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lighten and then go and hit your roots
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with the lightener at the end if you
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have pre-existing color and this is not
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your first time coloring your hair say
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you have very dark boxed eye color on
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your hair or just any dark color start
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off with the parts that are the darkest
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so if you have spots all around start
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off in those spots that are the darkest
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then move your way up still don't do
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your roots first unless you're doing
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like a retouch on existing hair don't
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starting your roots next we have
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application method this is where your
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work either turns into a masterpiece or
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a disaster this is actually one of the
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most important parts if not the most
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important part now listen i understand
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that none of you are going to use a
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brush probably none of you which is fine
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honestly it's fine as long as you're
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using these things correctly you'll be
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fine i swear you'll be all good to go
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first of all make sure you have gloves
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on it's really not good for your hands
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to put color all over them for real
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it'll dry them out forever permanent
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color is pretty simple mix it up put it
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on your head you can comb or brush it
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through i highly recommend that as you
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work through comb it make sure every
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single hair strand is applied to and now
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with bleach i'm gonna show you on miss
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manny quinn how much bleach you should
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be using okay i see this happen all the
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time where people do not use enough
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lightener on their heads ninety percent
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of the time nobody uses enough you need
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a lot of lightener in order to get the
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maximum results possible and less
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lightener doesn't mean that your hair is
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going to
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lighten less it just means that you're
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probably get spotting all over your hair
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if you don't want as much lightning
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power maybe you drop down the developer
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or maybe don't let it sit on your hair
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as long if you don't want your hair to
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lighten as much don't go and put less
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lighter that doesn't make any sense now
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as shown here on miss manny quinn my
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amazing client today we are gonna apply
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that lightener we're gonna start in the
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back if you're using permanent color or
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bleach start in the back it doesn't
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matter what you're using we're going to
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want to do those first back two
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quadrants first start at the bottom and
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work your way up that way all the color
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lays on top of itself as you work up and
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it doesn't become a total mess now this
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is how much lightner you should be using
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really coat it you can use your hands as
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i'm doing here really get it in there
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move the hair around in your palms
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really get it in and avoid that root
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area at all costs until you can go back
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around and do it all
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after and then once you're done with the
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entire back section you can work on the
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front section so once you're done
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applying the color on the entire head
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set your timer for however long you're
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supposed to set it for now for bleach i
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definitely recommend putting a bag over
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your hair spray a little water inside of
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it put it on your head and tie it really
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tight that way the water kind of gets a
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little bit steamy inside the bag you
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just don't want the lightener to dry out
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okay doesn't like dryness it likes
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moistness so make sure it's always moist
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another thing that i see a lot people
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try to lather the bleach like shampoo
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bleach does not lather let me make that
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very clear bleach doesn't lather so stop
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trying to make that happen it's never
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gonna happen and also don't comb or
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brush through bleach your hair is in a
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very fragile state right now that
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tension is gonna be very bad and
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detrimental to the health of your hair
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don't do that so let's go over how long
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to leave the color on for for a
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permanent color you can leave on for
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whatever the directions say every
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manufacturer has a different time frame
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you leave the color on for it's usually
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30 or 35 minutes and for bleach it's
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much more complicated it's gonna vary
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person-to-person if you have virgin hair
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though and you're trying to go really
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light leave on 45 to an hour okay
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nothing beyond an hour is gonna do
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anything else because the bleach ends up
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drying out after an hour basically don't
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leave it on for more than an hour
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nothing's gonna happen nothing i promise
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if you're trying to get platinum blonde
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hair leave it on your hair until it's
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kind of like white looking because
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usually once you rinse the lightener off
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and that kind of white cast comes off it
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ends up looking a lot more orange and
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yellowish when you rinse it off so pale
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yellow is what we're going for in order
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to get that very platinum blonde look
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and you can also wash out the back
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before the front because we started in
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the back we can wash that out so that it
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doesn't over process and the front and
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back end up as the same color so once
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your timer is up maybe wash out the back
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first wait another 10 minutes and then
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rinse out the front and just overall
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make sure you monitor this process keep
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it close eye on your hair make sure
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nothing's falling out if you're worried
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about anything falling out take a piece
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in the back kind of stretch it out a
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little bit pull on it if it's not
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breaking or not stretching a ridiculous
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amount your hair is probably fine and
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you can leave it on a little bit longer
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and next we have cleansing and this is a
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whole category i see a lot of things
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gone wrong in the cleansing category and
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these videos i've seen one use lukewarm
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water okay don't use cold water to rinse
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off lightener i know it's tempting it
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feels kind of good because your head's
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very hot but you don't want to do that
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because what's going to happen is it's
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going to shock your hair your hair was
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just expanded really wide in order to
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get all that artificial pigment out of
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your hair or natural pigment out of your
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hair when you shock it back it can cause
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breakage so make sure you rinse your
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hair with lukewarm water nothing too hot
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nothing too cold just right in the
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middle okay do not scrub your scalp it's
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very fragile the skin was just basically
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ripped off of it be gentle yeah thorough
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don't use your nails use just like this
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just the tops of your fingers okay be
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gentle be loving to your scalp it's
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doing a lot for you right now and just
00:16:02
say thank you to it by just giving a
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little massage and most of the time it
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takes about two washes to get all the
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lightener out of your hair if you're
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using a lot of it um sometimes your hair
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can be left that gritty feeling that's
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just because you didn't wash all the
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lightener out so wash it at least twice
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condition it very nicely maybe do a
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little hair mask show it a little love
00:16:19
you'll be all good up next evaluate the
00:16:21
situation can your hair handle more
00:16:23
bleach if it needs to be bleached again
00:16:24
is it stringy is it falling out is your
00:16:26
hair white white does it look like it
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can handle more lightener the answer is
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no then don't do it if the answer is yes
00:16:32
then do it okay it'll be fine and now is
00:16:34
when you proceed with another round of
00:16:35
lightner if you need to and now those
00:16:37
that are doing permanent color and not
00:16:39
using bleach you'll want to stop here
00:16:41
you're at the end of your journey
00:16:43
congratulations you've colored your hair
00:16:44
properly people that are bleaching
00:16:46
there's more stuff to it okay it's a
00:16:48
long process so next up we have toner
00:16:53
toner
00:16:54
is a tricky situation for a lot of you
00:16:57
have noticed a lot of you are using
00:16:59
permanent color as a toner now that's
00:17:01
not a toner okay see permanent color
00:17:03
like we went over before lifts and
00:17:05
deposits it goes into the cortex of your
00:17:07
hair toner lays on top you don't want to
00:17:09
use permanent color when you're toning
00:17:11
your hair again it's a very confusing
00:17:12
thing to go over we're going over the
00:17:13
basics today just listen to me don't try
00:17:15
to fight it okay just use a toner not a
00:17:17
permanent color don't use box dye to
00:17:19
tone your hair okay don't go grab the
00:17:20
icy blonde box dye and put it over your
00:17:22
already blonde hair there's so much
00:17:24
ammonia there's so much lifting in that
00:17:27
box you don't need any lift at this
00:17:28
point you've already lifted your hair to
00:17:30
what it needs to be it's like pale
00:17:32
yellow right now you don't need to then
00:17:34
lift it further you're just gonna create
00:17:36
so much damage for no reason toner lays
00:17:38
on top of the hair cuticle it's often
00:17:40
mixed with anything below a 10 volume
00:17:42
developer typically there is a toning
00:17:44
developer that goes with the toners okay
00:17:47
so look out for that t18 is not a toner
00:17:49
it's a permanent color okay don't be
00:17:51
using 20 volume with t18 in order to
00:17:53
tone your blonde hair no it's not good
00:17:55
use a level 10 toner maybe an ash
00:17:59
neutral one combined with a toning
00:18:01
developer in order to tone your hair
00:18:03
this will leave your hair feeling
00:18:04
amazingly healthy it won't cause any
00:18:06
damage it'll actually help some of that
00:18:08
damage feel better and that's why we use
00:18:10
a toner and not a permanent color when
00:18:11
you're toning your hair opt for
00:18:13
something that is at the same level as
00:18:15
what your hair is right now or for
00:18:17
something darker okay you can't go
00:18:19
lighter with a toner you can only go
00:18:21
darker or at the same level so these are
00:18:23
the levels right here the basics of it
00:18:25
all level one to ten one being the
00:18:27
darkest ten being the lightest see what
00:18:29
you are and then when you know what your
00:18:31
level is say you're level eight right
00:18:32
now and you're trying to be more ash
00:18:34
toned okay so you know you wanna go with
00:18:36
level eight then you about your color
00:18:38
wheel okay it's not that complicated i
00:18:40
swear just listen i know this sounds
00:18:42
scary grab your color wheel if your hair
00:18:44
is kind of looking a little uh orange
00:18:46
you know go from that orange across the
00:18:48
other side and you'll see across some
00:18:50
orange is blue you're gonna want a blue
00:18:53
based toner at a level eight in order to
00:18:56
cancel out that orange you're seeing so
00:18:58
you can use something like an 8na in
00:18:59
order to cancel out that orange and get
00:19:01
a beautiful level 8 tone that looks sort
00:19:04
of natural and almost long quality
00:19:06
purple shampoo is not a toner purple
00:19:08
shampoo is to keep up with what you've
00:19:10
done at the salon or at home it's not a
00:19:12
toner don't use it to tone your hair
00:19:14
it's not gonna work well you're gonna
00:19:15
get spotting everywhere that's not what
00:19:17
it's for and make sure you're leaving
00:19:18
the toner on for the recommended amount
00:19:20
of time and not longer and not shorter
00:19:21
so using a level 10 toner on a level 8
00:19:25
head of hair see this is level 10 this
00:19:27
is level 8. it's not gonna work because
00:19:29
there is no lifting agents there's
00:19:31
nothing that's going to get your hair
00:19:32
higher there's nothing that's going to
00:19:33
make your hair lighter toner doesn't
00:19:35
make your hair lighter it just brings
00:19:37
you to the right tone of that lightness
00:19:39
that you have achieved with bleach
00:19:42
consider doing a root and end glaze you
00:19:44
can look up pictures of that this is
00:19:46
basically what it is it's when you do a
00:19:47
darker toner on the top and a lighter
00:19:49
one on the bottom hair naturally has
00:19:51
darker tones at the top and lighter
00:19:53
tones at the bottom typically we often
00:19:54
do that in the salon to make a bit of a
00:19:56
more natural look or to make a little
00:19:57
root shadow so you can use like a level
00:19:59
eight on the root and a level ten on the
00:20:01
ends and blend it all together it'll
00:20:02
look amazing but that is definitely more
00:20:04
of an advanced skill try it might not
00:20:06
come out that good but don't blame me
00:20:07
our next category finish and style at
00:20:10
this point you're pretty much done okay
00:20:12
you've rinsed off you blow-dried it you
00:20:13
have the most amazing beautiful hair
00:20:15
ever
00:20:16
evaluate okay is this where you want to
00:20:18
be do you want to be lighter maybe you
00:20:20
should wait a day maybe you should wait
00:20:21
a week maybe you should wait six months
00:20:22
to do it again maybe try to get your
00:20:24
hair lighter or maybe it looks great how
00:20:25
it is just evaluate the situation and
00:20:27
don't make any impulse decisions make
00:20:29
sure you are gentle with your hair and
00:20:31
using the proper products to take care
00:20:33
and maintain your new color we have
00:20:36
force filled heat shield here and viper
00:20:38
smoothing oil these are gonna be great
00:20:39
for maintaining color and keeping the
00:20:41
integrity of your hair heat shield
00:20:43
protects your hair up to 500 degrees
00:20:45
fahrenheit and adds pro vitamin b5 to
00:20:47
strengthen and restore your hair this is
00:20:49
great for people with colored hair or
00:20:50
not colored hair people with any hair
00:20:52
type or texture perfect for protecting
00:20:54
against heat damage and the elements the
00:20:56
oil is going to rehydrate your hair it's
00:20:58
not going to sit on top of your hair
00:21:00
cuticle it's actually going to seep in
00:21:01
deep into your cortex and rehydrate and
00:21:04
restore your hair from the inside out
00:21:06
great for after color please make sure
00:21:08
you take care of your hair after color
00:21:09
that's so important that way when you go
00:21:11
back with color again the next time your
00:21:13
hair is in pristine shape to then take
00:21:14
more color and not become damaged and
00:21:17
with that all said you guys happy
00:21:19
coloring and good luck
00:21:22
um please follow my directions it took a
00:21:24
while for me to put together and i hope
00:21:26
you could please learn a thing or two um
00:21:28
as much as i think it's fun seeing
00:21:30
people do bad their hair i i do really
00:21:33
like helping people and um making them
00:21:36
feel beautiful and learn and i love
00:21:38
educating so this is a lot of fun for me
00:21:40
i can't wait to see what you guys do
00:21:42
hopefully some good stuff i'm sure
00:21:43
there'll be some bad but hopefully some
00:21:45
good too that is all for today guys
00:21:48
thank you
00:21:49
so much for freaking watching me today
00:21:51
follow me on all the damn social medias
00:21:54
we have snapchat facebook twitter
00:21:56
instagram tick tock at ramondo nyc
00:22:00
follow my haircare brand x monohair for
00:22:02
new products coming out and that's all
00:22:04
for today guys thank you so much for
00:22:06
watching don't forget to live your extra
00:22:09
life
00:22:10
i'll see you next time bye guys
00:22:13
hi beautiful this is project x our
00:22:16
everyday conditioner project x is going
00:22:18
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00:22:21
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00:22:22
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00:22:25
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your hair is craving and this is project
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